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1978 115hp Spline Seal Removal and How to get the lower end back up

Jerryjerry05 said:
Metal o-ring?The one caught on the shaft ?
Pics?
Going back to work soon so try to upload them.
They sell a gasket,not sure if it will work.
F85453-1 15$GASKET, EXHAUST LOWER,found on older models,This is from a 75/76 125. All of the ones that have a gasket use this one.(Had to look deeper).http://cdn.boats.net/diagram/Merc/CHRYSLER/FOB2276/16.png
If it doesn't fitwork???just use silicone.It should fit.
Click to expand...


for the 0 ring i already uploaded it you mentioned since it was bent it needed to be replaced its a metal spring o ring type

as for the exhaust gasket, i thought it was disconntinued ya i was thinking laying a big gop of manifold gasket maker or so

i contacted the one guy that i bought a part off of for that rubber spline so hope to get it so what does it do?


as for the nut i re looked at what i have ya it has a nylon on there, but should i use also a lock washer? and i guess a little blue lock tight cant hurt right i dont wanna loose it

as for a spacer as the plastic is worn out, what my options for that
 
F509299 WASHER can be bought.
Franz marine. or boats . net
I looked on this site and didn't see it for sale.
The washer can be replaced by washers.
Try over on i boats . com the Force/Chrysler Forum.
Post a thread asking to buy the parts.
Put pics up of the parts you'll need.


The rubber is to keep the grease on the splines.
The metal ring and the rubber when put on the top of the shaft makes a grease keeper.
When the drive is pushed up.It seals on the bottom of the crank.
 
oh ok and as the metal O ring is that still usable or un usable if i put the kink under the lip from the spacer. i not home to re upload pics but the ring is the picture in my hand
 
The metal collar is reusable.
The o-ring or spring from the seal isn't the whole seal needs to be replaced.
If not it can cause poor running and possible piston failure.(sucking air)
 
Jerryjerry05 said:
The metal collar is reusable.
The o-ring or spring from the seal isn't the whole seal needs to be replaced.
If not it can cause poor running and possible piston failure.(sucking air)
Click to expand...


what you mean the whole seal need replacing i doubt you can remove it

ill show picture of it again and it would sit up inside the rubber you see in the pic that is around the crank shaft
 

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Jerryjerry05 said:
http://cdn.boats.net/diagram/Merc/CHRYSLER/FOB2700/14.png
#13 it does come out.
It's actually not that hard to replace.
It's usually replaced when a rebuild is done and the whole motor's apart.
It can be taken out with a little bit of work.
Click to expand...


ok kinda lost the number 13 is that the O Ring i show in the picture in my hand?? as that be already out but i mean when i look at the groove it goes in, part of it is blocked by the Spacer plate, do you need to remove the spacer plate or can u force it in
 
hi I finally got a chance to re work on this engine

so that metal ring I have in the pic is uslly compressed more in a metal cap how do you get the old cap out without splitting the engine??

also I bought the spline seal does knobby end go up or does it go in the cup part

also I replaced the water pipe seal at top of engine does it need some lube or dress press It

I got new upper plate gasket do I oil it??

and u cant get the llower support gasket plate so I need to make one what paper do I use as type
 
comet424 said:
hi I finally got a chance to re work on this engine

so that metal ring I have in the pic is uslly compressed more in a metal cap how do you get the old cap out without splitting the engine??
(pics)
also I bought the spline seal does knobby end go up or does it go in the cup part
(?? Don't understand)
also I replaced the water pipe seal at top of engine does it need some lube or dress press It
(no lube, press it in)
I got new upper plate gasket do I oil it??
(no)
and u cant get the llower support gasket plate so I need to make one what paper do I use as type
Click to expand...
(Use gasket material. Can get at any auto parts store)
 
cant get gasket material big enough unless I use gasket maker tube just not sure which one

so that lower crank seal you see how do I get it out, you said it can be worked out using what


If I have to split engine can I sli it bythe crank without taking the the rest of the engine apart and what do u use to glue it after since thre is no gasket

that's older pic still has tht plate on there. cant seem to get cell to link with comp properly with its cable today
 

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Last edited:
I've used a piece of stiff hanger wire.
Curve the ends and reach up inside and try to pull straight down/ out.
To make a BIG gasket I use Form A Gasket the Orange stuff in a gold tube.
If you need to split the cases use black silicone to reseal.
 
a I tried scribber in couldn't get it out.

so I just gonna split engine. and I don't think they use gasket maker, just tat thin like water sealant or so and the spaggetti seal.


my next issue is I having problems gettg the starter out of the holder

and how do you set the distrubtor after??
 
I think this the right setting I was just turning head and guss be a TDC I not there yet still tryin to split case
 

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oh do you know what type of bolts thread into the flywheel. my harmonic and steering wheel pullers don't have the right bolts
 
alright so I cant get this flywheel off

I have it soaking in penetrating oil, I have heated the ring and the keyway and I don't heat the crank shaft
and I using propane bottle I didn't wanna use acetelyn torches be too hot maybe

I have it soaking right now with PB Blaster penetratin oil and having tension on the puller

I do notice my puller center threadd rod pushing on the bolt the threads are smoothing out so then its working too hard I guess
 
so I tried reheating for 10 min and then use my puller to put more tension

but the puller broke the rod in center the threads are stripped what the hell is holdin this


how do I get it off

and no I don't have shorter bolts that would thread in there
 

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ok so I got help from a buddy we broke the puller even more but we used 2 crow bars and hammered the top of the crank so it finaly came loose after 20 min

I go I tore down but I thought it be simple to lift the the bearin out but I cant not even soft taps or pryin out so what do I do??

and then does it just pull out that seal???
 

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nevermind I got the bushing out I used 2x4 and and hammer and kept hammering at the lower end crank till I could slide that bushing off but I having issues hammering out the sela I using screw driver and chisel with hammer I cant get a nice catch any tricks? ill post a photo in a few minutes
 
as you can see I butchered the rubber seal, and its not budging, I going to try using a scribber but what tricks do you guys have for this, the on comment was to drill use 2 screws but there Is no metal lip just that rubber seal.


and I don't understand this site everytime I type I have to type real slow as it cant keep up with my typing, any fix for that
 

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Above where you type. There are some small blocks with some capital letters.
Highlight the first one with the 2 capital A's
This will allow you to type faster.

As far as removing the seal just dig it out.
 
ok thanks ill try that


and I finally got it out I had a small chisel and I got it from the back and hammered it out

my next question is I need a sealant for the 2 bearings the top and bottom bushing

what do I use?? I got told Redflange by locktite but they have a few options

napa chat said these 2 products
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...ker-Sealer-Permatex/_/R-BK_7651943_0361068816

and

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...ermatex-Right-Stuff/_/R-BK_7652694_0361152143


im thinking the 2nd one??
 
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