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1978 115hp Spline Seal Removal and How to get the lower end back up

comet424

Regular Contributor
hi

i have a 115 hp i pulled out the lower end to replace the water pump and i couldnt get the lower end back up i got told it needs to have the spline seal removed so i used a screw attached to a bar and even tried a scribber attached to the bar to pull out i dont feel the rubber in it, but i guess poking up there a metal O ring that is like a spring came out i guess that holds a rubber up? how i gonna get that back up

as i try to shove the lower end up but it wont go in the splines

let me guess i have to take the head off??? and if so whats the steps to remove it

and the model i have is
[h=1]1159B8B[/h]
 
Pics of what you've got?
There is a rubber sleeve and a thin metal cup to hold the seal in place.#69/70
Could be the rubber sleeve is still up inside???
Long stick and knock it out?
 

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here couple pics i cant pull nothing out i took with my cell phone one is a last years pic and otehr i just took up inside but id try to get a better pic if you need it


and this silver O ring that is made out of metal fell out too its like a spring and stretches
 

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That picture of shaft splines has the illusion they are twisted. Don't go pulling the powerhead.
I had some trouble with a 90 Hp trying to get the splines engaged. Sharp edges and burr on the top of the splines were causing it to hang up. A little deburring solved that issue.
 
ok is taking the head off too much work then?? and how can i get the metal 0 ring back up

and yes the spline is twisted i bought it like that i pulled the lower end off when the engine turned from white to brown as the water pump wasnt working and when i pulled the lower end off it was like that i never had it in the river yet just in a barrel


so if i cant get it up even if i sharpen ends does the head have to come off as i cant get this damn thing out this rubber sleve as when i scratch up there i feel metal not rubber so maybe there is no rubber seal anymore?
 
you can see the shaft twisted here i dunno how that happens but ya i dont know how i get that one ring back up there be nicer if the hole was bigger need baby hands
 

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If it's twisted it's likely bulged also. That's probably why the seal won't come off. But that's the least of your worries. Time for a new shaft or possibly lower unit. This one will never run true again.
 
ah ic well that bites it came out easy i just cant slide it back up how come??

and such and the shaft is oposite and i cant find a lower end


and what caused it to twist
 
so i filed the end a bit the teeth and i got it to go up a little so when i turn the prop the engine turns so that part is working

but i cant get it up maybe if i put the bolts in it will force it up???


as for the retainer does the recess part go up or face down?


and how can i get that O ring metal spring up without taking the head off or flipping the engine upside down??
 
I don't know if you can find an internal puller to get the rest of the seal out. That spring helps maintain seal tension. It's ruined (distorted) and will not do it's job even if you were to get it back in. That said a twisted shaft will not seal correctly either.

"ah ic well that bites it came out easy i just cant slide it back up how come??"

Since it's twisted, the shaft it's now kind of "fitted" to specific internal splines in the matting end. Although I recommend against it, massaging the splines can loosen the fit and allow insertion. I'd expect it to vibrate on the water. It will likely wear the internal splines and any new seals quickly.

"and such and the shaft is oposite and i cant find a lower end"

Lower units are typically available when someone's power head fails and they decide to off the parts or whole outboard.

"and what caused it to twist"

Seems that shaft has come to an abrupt stop to have that twist. I'm surprised the gearing in the lower survives! (or do you know for sure?)
 
ok so ill try to take head off then since there is no way to get that ring up

and that cup spline cap the recessed part goes up right or does it face down

ill take a side pic of the spline as i dotn think its bad least not for going into the engine just twisted least if i take the head off i can get that new spring up there and get the rubber boot out then right the sleve
 
oh and as of shifting that works fine i fixed that problme it had a broke like L shape that shifts from forward to reverse to the lower arm i replaceed that part and it goes into forward and reverse no problems
 
ok so i think i removed all the bolts but i cant lift the power head off by hand i figured i should be able to have seperated the gasket

is there any trick?

here is a pic of all the bolts nad nuts off

and i removed the bolt at the center of the front of the engine thats hidden by that like L shaped part in the 2nd pic
 

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ok i got head lifted off but i cant lift it up the exhaust pipe is in the way is there a way to pull it up without unhooking it as i cant get my hand and a screw driver in there as a socket doesnt fit in there
 

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The head will lift off (keep wiggling it)and taking the exhaust off shouldn't be done unless it's REALLLLLY needed.
The tiny 1/4-20 bolts tend to break easily.
The good thing is the heads loose and getting to the crank seal is easy,now.
The drive shaft bent when someone hit something in the water.
Your VERY lucky the lower unit came out.
Now once it's out you need to dry fit the crank end and shaft.
That seal is important to fit right.
The metal cup is to hold the rubber shaft cover(didn't see it in the pics)
 
The head will lift off (keep wiggling it)and taking the exhaust off shouldn't be done unless it's REALLLLLY needed.
The tiny 1/4-20 bolts tend to break easily.
The good thing is the heads loose and getting to the crank seal is easy,now.
The drive shaft bent when someone hit something in the water.
Your VERY lucky the lower unit came out.
Now once it's out you need to dry fit the crank end and shaft.
That seal is important to fit right.
The metal cup is to hold the rubber shaft cover(didn't see it in the pics)


ok ill keep trying to wiggle it the exhasust pipe keeps jamming ill take a pic it doesnt let me lift out out

well dont wanna take off those bolts if i dont need too

well hopefully it will slide in i forgot to take pics of the shaft side ways

as for the metal cup scroll up its on the shaft of the twisted spline, as i cant remember if it goes facing up or down for the open or i called it the recessed part
 
so i had to remove the water pipe bracket to remove the engine, and is there a gasket for it or just does it just press tight against engine??

as it was flush


but what do i do now?? i dotn see a seal in the groves? that spline seal

also which way does that cup face as i took anew pictures but my cell doenst like the cold and shuts off
 

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alright i got it in i guessing the issue was i used anti seeze to keep it from having issues taking apart if i had to later but looks like that was holding it back

and i dont think this thig had a spiline rubber bushing thing? as this is as far as i could get this shaft up there

but maybe i wrong

and you can see the parial twist so its in the lower section of the grooves not in the crank
 

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and maybe you cal tell me but on boats net site for the parts diagram i cant find the gasket for the the power head that i pulled off as the other one above the spacer is called the exhaust gasket

also that metal 0 ring couldnt find it either on the site maybe you can help me there too
 
The metal ring the groove goes up.
It needs a rubber sleeve to cover the splines.#69 or 70 in the diagram.
No anti sieze,grease.
No gasket, silicone.
It doesn't fit all the way up in there.
Silicone on the water tube. Just put a ring of it around the top and let it dry before assy.
 
The metal ring the groove goes up.<br>
It needs a rubber sleeve to cover the splines.#69 or 70 in the diagram.<br>
No anti sieze,grease.<br>
No gasket, silicone.<br>
It doesn't fit all the way up in there.<br>
Silicone on the water tube. Just put a ring of it around the top and let it dry before assy.<br><br type="_moz">
 
oh ok ya too cold for greease i think but ill try it least its working to slide in so then someone else had this off and never put it on

ok ill try to order the spline cover seal

and for the gasket making what you recommend as temp also i working in -15 -20C temperatures how well will it dry as i know the one gasket maker u put on aseemble but you dont tighten it down


its strange they dont have a gasket labeled



also is there a subsitue for the plastic prop washer and nose cone as i dont have the nose cone and the other half which is the washer is worn out


but ill see if i can get that rubber seal

also what is the number or so for that metal O Ring thats like a spring i couldnt find it
 
if i cant get that 0 Ring can i just put a bit of glue on it like crazy glue and push it in and should hold?


also what kinda paper do they use for the gasket as i could trace one out


also the Exhaust gasket is damaged worn out good what is that made off as its obsolete to get so i can make my own
 
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Been gone.
No gasket on the base.Use sillycone.
Nose cone not really needed.

F523146 SEAL, CRANKSHAFT LOWER
That fits in the end of the crank.

Go to any auto parts store, they'll sell you a sheet/roll of gasket material.http://www.boats.net/images/diagrams/Merc/CHRYSLER/FOB2700/14.png

I "might" have the rubber spline cover.Maybe??? If you can't order it,I'll look.


ah ok thats ok wasnt sure what happened to ya :)
what kinda of silicone? they have different ones, RTV and all this other ones

crankshaft lower seal thats the spring???

and as for the link just shows the crank shaft not sure what i looking at
as for gasket paper i can buy a pack of gasket paper but its has different types in it do you know which kind?
the rubber spline thing cant buy it from my marine place, there might b eplace in canada i know north but ill see if he has it

as for the nose and the plastic other half they call a washer, i got told you need it, as the nose cone keeps the prop nut from spinning off, as there is not nut washer with tabs for this
 
The nut on the shaft.
You can get a stainless nut with the plastic insert.
Nylock is what the're called.
The later ones came standard with a brass nylock.
Finding the original parts is possible.keep looking on e-bay.
What are you making a gasket for?
The base doesn't have one.It's just sillycone.
I use the black rtv.The other colors really stick out.
 
The nut on the shaft.
You can get a stainless nut with the plastic insert.
Nylock is what the're called.
The later ones came standard with a brass nylock.
Finding the original parts is possible.keep looking on e-bay.
What are you making a gasket for?
The base doesn't have one.It's just sillycone.
I use the black rtv.The other colors really stick out.

oh so using a nylon nut is good enough and wont come off? the pastic washer with the splin in in is worn out and just spins any substiitut?
the gasket is for when you pull the engine off it had a paper type gasket then there is the spacer its called and then another gasket, but i didnt take that off as its blocking the metal ring to push back in

and what ring is that called again or can i use it by pushing it under the lip

and what gasket iis for the exhaust its square as i cant find that its oposoite too lol

always something eh
 
oh ok ya its below the adapter or spacer its called and had a gasket on there ok i can use silicome,

so you said the metal o ring no good anymore?? and i need a replacement Exhaust gasket, is there a substitute
 
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