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1972 Johnson 65hp.

Does anyone know of a Marine parts store anywhere in the Seattle/Olympia area that's open on Saturday or Sunday? Sent an email to Sound Marine Repair. Only other place that may have it that I know of is Sea-Way Marine, but they're closed weekends.
 
Tom's outboard in downtown Olympia is open Saturday from 9-2. With any luck, she'll be purring like a kitten tomorrow afternoon.
 
zmany2k said:
If I can figure out how to add photos, I can show you a picture of what I'm talking about. It's definitely a neutral safety. Maybe it's something that Starcraft did.
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Is that a "Evinrude" type control box that has push buttons for shifting... OR... might it be a "Johnson" type control box where the shifting is done via the single lever accuating a toggle switch within the box? If a "Johnson" box, that would explain it.
 
Me Reeves, it is the Johnson control box.

Kimcrwbr1, I pulled the carbs and tore them down as part of my annual maintenance a week ago. I also checked my spark on all three last night and got great spark. While doing this I noticed a LOT of salt buildup on the #1 spark plug. Then I tested compression already suspecting the head gasket because of the salt. Then I pulled the head (which was a LOT easier than I expected). As I suspected, there was a failure in the gasket on the #1 cylinder.

I just called Tom's outboard in Oly. They are more expensive than everyone else, but they have them in stock and they're open. $31 for the head gasket. Once I get it back together, I'll see if if it's heating up properly. I run it on muffs also. I'm sure my neighbors will enjoy hearing it putt along in my driveway.
 
joereeves said:
Is that a "Evinrude" type control box that has push buttons for shifting... OR... might it be a "Johnson" type control box where the shifting is done via the single lever accuating a toggle switch within the box? If a "Johnson" box, that would explain it.
Click to expand...
So that toggle isn't a neutral safety, it's the sending unit that tells the motor what gear to be in? That makes sense. I just assumed it was a neutral safety. I hate making assumptions, but I'm not totally fluent in outboards by any means.
 
Ok, will do. I've still got the control box apart and laying on the driver's seat. I just got back from the part's place with the head gasket. I'm wanting to hold off until next paycheck for the water pump and thermostat. I will inspect the thermostat now though. I have a roll of gasket paper and cork. I've spent about $400 on this boat between yesterday and today (got it a pretty new fish finder yesterday, Lowrance Elite-4X DSI). Need to slow down and stop (B)usting (O)ut (A)nother (T)housand.

I would like to inspect the water pump and fluid passageways though. A rebuild kit for my boat at the place I was just at runs a bit under $100 and another $30 for the thermostat kit. Can I just inspect it without replacing anything? Where does the water go after the boat uses it as coolant? Out of the center of the prop?

Is it hard to separate the lower unit? I do not have the service manual yet, it is still on it's way here.
 
zmany2k said:
So that toggle isn't a neutral safety, it's the sending unit that tells the motor what gear to be in? That makes sense. I just assumed it was a neutral safety. I hate making assumptions, but I'm not totally fluent in outboards by any means.
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Does it have a Evinrude push button shift or not? You didn't answer my question.

If it is a Johnson single lever "white" control box, it would have both a Shift Toggle Switch AND a Neutral Safety Switch.
 
Thanks. I'll keep that in mind.

Mr Reeves, I answered your question in Post #43.

It's all back together. new compression numbers are Cyl 1: 128, Cyl 2: 130, Cyl 3: 130. Once I got the fuel bowls filled, she fired right up and purred mostly.like a happy kitten. Cylinder one is still acting up a bit and I think it's because that plug is just too messed up from salt corrosion. I'll replace it and see what I get. Hopefully my water hose will be thawed out by then and I can actually run it for more than a couple seconds. My neighbors won't like the noise, but they'll get over it. It's payback for their dogs crapping in my yard.
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
Post number 38 shows his control box Joe. Be sure and torque the head to spec in a center out pattern my books only go up to 40 hp.
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Okay, thanks... I overlooked that hyperlink somehow.

Part #72 is thw shift toggle switch. There is no safety switch inside the control box.
 
The 1972 Hydro-Electric remote control has a neutral start safety switch built into the shift switch!!!! I don't know what the OP has that he "freed up".
 
What I freed up was the shift toggle switch.

She's running great, sort of. Engine is running perfect, but as kimcrwbr1 warned, I have fried the impeller. She ran for about ten minutes hooked to the muffs before I noticed that she was getting too hot. On the upside, just before I shut her down, the temp warning buzzer went off letting me know that I was over heating. So I know it works. I just figured out how to remove the L/U. Once I get back from my friend's daughter's BDay party, I'll take it off and see what's going on and how much damage I've done through my ignorance.

I'm tickled pink that she's firing right up with no hesitation now. That at least feels great.
 
Believe me, that was not how I wanted to test the buzzer. But it does work.

I dont understand what what you mean by adding a telltale. Could you explain a bit further?
 
Just relax here.----There might be a pipe plug on that block to install a pressure gauge or overboard indicator.----Just take a few minutes and inspect it.
 
zmany2k said:
Alrighty then. Pulled the control off and took the cover off. Turns out the neutral safety switch was frozen. Got it unstuck and working properly. The boat cranks now. Now I'm going to see how easy she'll start up in this 30 degree weather.

I really do appreciate all of the advice I've gotten so far from everyone. I still need to pick up a compression gauge. What's normal for these motors? 110-120psi?
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Well, OK, I admit my error. The 1972 control DOES have a neutral start feature built into the shift switch. Control has to be in neutral to start. Previous years did not have that.
 
No worries. I'll look into the pressure plug and see if there's a way to tell whether or not it's getting water. On a normal properly running 65ESL72, where does it exhaust the used water? Through the prop with the exhaust?
 
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Yeah, I have a small toolbox I keep on the boat and an extra set of NGK R's. Eventually, I'd like to put a new prop on it. This prop got worked over a bit in the Chesapeake bay. I ran full tilt into sand (glad it wasn't rocks). I'd never been in water that big and it never crossed my mind that it might be shallow. Susquehanna flats outside of Aberdeen Proving Grounds. Good times.

I need to go out and pull the L/U, but I'm hesitating a bit as it's actually snowing out there right now. Want to see how bad the water pump impeller is.

It's ok to run the motor without the prop right? I've got a trashcan I could use, but it wouldn't fit with the prop on I think. I'm sure my neighbors would like it running in water a lot better too. Me personally, I like that two-stroke cackle.
 
Has anyone ever had an issue removing a L/U? Is it supposed to slide right off? I don't want to force it and break something. The manual (showed up today) makes it sound like it should slide right off.
 
Is saltaway easy to buy locally? I've never heard of it. The housing seems fine, just needs cleaned up. I can't see any obvious damage to it. The impeller didn't look as bad as I expected either. It is missing a decent bit of rubber though. I have no clue how old it is. Never did pull the thermostat before the snow got heavy. The dusting I expected out here in Lacey turned into 4" pretty quick. I'll pull it out tomorrow and see if it's working or not.

Time for bed though. Just got back from driving around in the Ranger pulling people up hills and out of ditches. Dodge Chargers are heavy.
 
I'm going to look. If nothing else, West Marine is about 15 minutes away in downtown Olympia. I would think that they would have it. Too bad, I was just there on Friday. I bought a new fuel line from the tank to motor as the old was leaking and not sealing well at the tank. Is it called Saltaway?
 
Just realized that the kit I'm buying on Monday is the same part you posted earlier. It comes with a new housing. So I'll be replacing the impeller and housing either way.
 
Yeah, the one I pulled out had a stainless liner. So I take it that is also the newer version? I fretted pulling the L/U because I didn't realize the wires would hold that well. I lubed them up with Dawn first too. I also tied some 550 cord guts to them so I could pull them back through easier.
 
Alright. Today's work will just be with the thermostat. I'll pull it out and drop it in 140 degree water to see if it's opening. Then I'll clean up the valve and spring in the other section (think that was how it works. I've got a diagram for it). Tomorrow I will be picking up a water pump kit to replace the one posted above. If needed, I will also buy parts for the thermostat. Once that's complete, the only other things needed are aesthetic and creature comforts. I do need to repair my seats as the wood has rotted out of two of them. I've got all the plywood and fasteners I need to repair them.

I think my next big question is about installing a tach. Is that possible on these? From what I've read, WOT should be 5,000rpm. I'd like to put as much prop under it as it can handle, but I haven't the foggiest idea of how to select a prop. I've read about pitch angle and some stuff, but is there a way of calculating what you need? The prop currently on the boat isn't too bad, but it's seen better days and is missing a bit of metal. I filed down most of the damage to at least smooth it out so that it will hopefully cut through the water easier. Currently, My boat can hit about 35-40mph and can go about 42 miles on ten gallons of fuel (4.2 mpg average though obviously tides, currents and wind are a factor). How do I select a prop to ensure that I'm getting the right performance out of my boat? I don't want to go too aggressive and lose range. Is there an equation that I can do based on weight and power or something like that? Do store allow you to try out multiple props (obviously as long as you don't damage one) to find the right one? What about prop weight? Is heavier better? Or lighter? The prop on it currently is really light.
 
Pulled the thermostat and tested it using water that was 170 degrees. The thermostat never opened. It does look a little rough too. The water jackets on this end had a bit of salt, but not too much. Just a few really thin patches about half the size of a pea. There was a bit of salt buildup in the housing though. Once i get the parts tomorrow, I'll get some flush too.
 
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