Honda 15 hp 2005 long shaft question

If you get any of the serial number uncovered, the following will help you determine whether it is a 9.9 or 15.

9.9 has a frame number that starts with BABJ and is followed by 7 numbers. ie...BABJ-1234567

15 has a frame number that starts with BALJ and is followed by 7 numbers ie...BALJ-1234567.

Mike

Good luck to your dad. The outboard deal is SO unimportant compared to him that it should help you keep it in perspective and...help you keep your cool while dealing with what sounds to be like a less than honorable shop.

Cops won't do much for you but I have had GREAT success with the venerable small claims court system. Usually getting served is enough for most people to start doing the right thing. But, it is a bit of a pain.

Good luck and hope this doesn't ruin your holiday spirit.

Well I want to wish you all a merry christmas and say thanks for helping me this far .

Dads doing ok and just has to relax and let me help him .

Heres where I am at now . I went to the cops and dont let this get out . If you steal a something and destroy the serial number or id the cops cant prove its stolen and will do nothing .Your right about the cops . The guy is now laughing who sold it to me . I now said I will be taking this to my next step small claims court . He said this carb being on a 9.9 and most of what you guys said was crap . I believe all you have told me so far and its good to see people like are here . If I have to really get dirty hes evading taxes and not writing reciepts . I did get one when I went back .

Your a smart man with motors and the system .

I believe what we do in life will come back to us without me sinking to his level .

Well guys whats my next step to try and fix this lemmon so I can sell it next season . The piece where the skinny tube did not fall out like was supose to and dont want to do more damage .I want to fix the carb right . Is there any way I can get a document showing that in case I get to court ?

If I can make a donation to the site after this is done I would like to give back for the help I got .Its going to be tough for a couple months but I alway get through it .

Your donation will be letting us all know the outcome of your efforts....

You still have to prove once and for all what year and size of the motor.

If you can not read the serial number on the frame, there is also a serial number (different number) on the power head. I am not at work (and will not be for until next year) to check this for sure, but the serial number may be behind some of the parts on the engine. The following is a picture, than indicates where the two serial numbers are located on that engine.



As for the documentation on how to identify the carburetor and also how to get the carburetor cleaned, I am going to refer you to the Honda Carburetor Manual. The information that you need is in the supplement, which addresses the newer carburetor, which I think you have.

Unfortunately, it is about $40, but will show you step by step with very clear pictures as to how to identify each passage and get it thoroughly cleaned. Honda sells them on ebay and amazon. Here is the link to Amazon http://www.amazon.com/Honda-Marine-...1AFO/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=A14VJQOXKKYWSY I think you will see what we are saying that just spraying a little carb cleaner on it will be of little use.

It will also provide you with the "official" information for court, not something that was just pulled off the internet. It will give you the most credibility. My advice though, if you are going to court, document each meeting, phone call, etc...that way you are not just making accusations, but presenting facts, as you know them.

If you can find the serial number on the powerhead, you should be able to call Honda and have them email you the unit information (model, frame serial number, year, etc). Again...another "official" source of information.

Customer Relations number is 770-497-6400. They will also be able to tell you the name of the original owner. Unfortunately, I do not have a way to look up that info with the engine serial number on the power head.

Mike

I am having problems figuring out where the motor pic is at . I looked all over and fond this . On the front of the motor below the pull rope piece . There is a metal box and it has 3 sets of numbers stamped on the box.

1 set I googled and it says module ign . There is a set below and when I googled that it says additional ID number on engine or frame is this . Is it possible this is the Engine number stamped on the box . First set says moduel ign and have 3 sets of numbers on top of each other .

I also found a number where the fuel filter rest on not sure if would say its the frame . Its not the motor its the bottom of the case of frame .

The guys offering me a trade or consignment at a $300 loss on the trade . I am a determined man and will keep on till its resolved. I said I wont let anybody else go through this till I have the proof.
Thanks again

Honda wont be open till Jan so I thought would post what I just found .

Sorry that the pictures were not real clear.

The motor serial number is engraved directly on the powerhead. If it is a 9.9 it will be BABJ-14xxxxx and if 15 HP it will be BALJ-12xxxxx. X here means any number.

Like I said, you may have to remove the ECM or other parts to find it.

Post the part number of the CDI that you found. The 9.9 CDI is different than the 15 HP CDI.

Mike

The ignition module has 30400-ZW9-003
Below that is F8T37372
below that is 1Z03

the number that is right below the fuel filter and it may be on the frame is
BEABJ-1010702 if not a 2 its a Z. I will double check tonight on that.

You are making progress.

The Ignition module is for D series 9.9.

Your serial number comes up as a 2001 9.9D. Although, when I check the American Honda records, there is no record for that serial number in the data base. It could be....a number or two could be off; it was never registered; or it could be a unit from Canada or other than the USA.

Needless to say....it is not a 2005 15 HP.

Double check the numbers...sometimes they are hard to read.

Mike

Opps! I read things incorrectly.

It is a 9.9 D but my info will not tell me what specific year. It could be anywhere from 2001 to current, based on that number.

That is where Honda should be able to help you with more information.

Sorry for the mistake.

Mike

The easiest way i found to read serial numbers on parts with limited access is to use a mobile phone and take a few photos of the numbers. That way you can blow the photo`s up on your computer.

In regards to serial numbers that have either been filed or ground off then the police might be able to use a type of acid which will reveal the destroyed numbers as this is what they do here in the UK for stolen motorbikes that have had they`re numbers removed.

Matt

Which numbers is the serial number I gave you ? I googled the numbers on the ignition the F8T37372 and came up with this here http://www.stolenboats.org.uk/view.php3?q=3783. I can take the side covers I am not sure the real name. The sides below the motor . This way I can see the motor better and search for numbers. I took the carb off and saw no numbers on the side. I did some searching and some say the motor number is on the top head . I am trying to find out which side your picture is at.

My question is the 2 sides look like couple bolts go through and the 2 sides come off. Then I will have better access to more looking .

The numbers are a guarantee no questions asked . The BEABJ was checked many times alread and the ign numer also . How can I document the proof you said about so I can present it in court . If I could get the motor back to its owner that would be pretty cool .

Is there any way I can get documented proof of what you told me.

Thanks for the help.
Jack

The number, BEABJ-1010702 is a engine block serial number.

Double check to be sure that has the correct numbers.

The best way to get documented proof, would be to call Honda, as discussed. They have the means to get to the frame serial number through their records. If they can fax or email you a copy of the original product registration or similar record, that is going to be as good as you can get. That should contain, the engine model number (ie; 9.9D5LHA); the frame serial number; the engine serial number; the selling dealer, and the original owner (if the motor was ever registered).

I have no idea what those other numbers are.

Mike

They are closed till Jan . I will take a pic and post the number so can see where I got the number from .
hanks again for all the support .Jack

Here is a picture if works . You will see a white strip a nd the number is on that.

Here is a closer view of the number . Its not on the actual motor and not sure whats its called .Seems like could be the frame .

The number on the tag is a serial number for the engine. Not the frame number. The frame number is the one that is located on the engine mount. On the older engines, the engine number is engraved in the block. Evidently, the newer ones are not. I never had to check any on the new engines.

So, when you call Honda, just let them know what the number is and where you found it. They should be able to take it from there.

Good luck.

Mike

Mike you are right . It took some time but its a BABJ-1102956 frame . Its a 2002 9.9 that was bought from Philly . Not stolen at least not on record.

Its now time for court . Honda gave me the info. The guys now squirming because hes caught .He wants he motor back to sell for me. When I get the CASH he can have it .

I have a 9.9 to sell next year . Is there a instruction thing for that carb ?

I must have Angels looking out for me . I will remember what you did for me to help me out of this mess forever . I will pass it on . I do that in my business on the side when I can .

Again I want to THANK everybody here and it means a lot to me.

Jack

Glad things are finally going your way.

The best instructional book for the Honda carbs is the Carb manual, that I indicated before...http://www.amazon.com/Honda-Marine-...1AFO/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=A14VJQOXKKYWSY

Mike

Will that work for a Merc 9.9 ? think its a 1996 2 stroke . I want to try to tackle my 9.9 next year .I to sell that and buy a brand new motor as long as I get my money back for this motor. I still have some fighting to go but its now in my court.
I saved that link in case I need to fix my Honda.

The Honda manual is specific to the Honda carbs. The carb on the 1996 Merc also has a lot of passages, fuel pump, primer system....all on the carburetor. You will need your serial number and number off of the carburetor in order to purchase the correct carb kit. It will have all the parts for the carb including the fuel pump, etc.

If you can find a Clymer Manual for that motor, it will probably help you through it. The trickiest part is removing the primer/idle speed adjustment knob and assembly.

When you get to that point, the guys on the Mercury forum will probably have the best helpful hints for you.

Mike

If I try to sell my Honda 9.9 2002 . Whats it worth ? It will be sold if I get stuck with it.

There is a saying you cant get blood from a turnip and well wont say the saying about crooks.

I am now sending a letter to the attorney general . he doesnt charge tax and does pocket shot deals .Pluss its fraud . My father sued before so I know the end result most of the time.

Check out the approximate value by looking at NADA guides.com http://www.nadaguides.com/Boats

You have to put in your zip code and look up your motor by model number. Your model number is BFP9.9LHS.
That this is just a guide. A lot depends on condition and where you are selling it.

Remember to document everything you do and when you do it...to develop a time line ,etc. if you have to go further. That should include date and time or every phone call, subject of discussion, and outcome.

Mike

Its been awhile guys . The motor started up and ran fine last year and even at the beginning of the year in the barrel . I went to sell it yesterday and it started when I gave it gas it shut off . I think you were right and I am now going to order the carb rebuild manual today . I have a question . How much is the rebuild kit going to cost . I want to do the job right but I dont want to replace things that don't need replaced .I am not sure if the people are hear who helped me so far.

Get your manual and read it well. Only you will know what parts you actually need to replace.

A couple of things that may not be in the manual....

If the accelerator pump is stuck, replace the bowl and plunger. You can probably break it loose, but it will get stuck again due to the sides of the plunger and bowl being just a little rough. You can check if it is stuck without taking the carb apart. If you look at the upper side of the carburetor, you will see a black plastic lever that moves then you advance the throttle. The lever pushes down on a small silver rod (about 1/16" in diameter) that goes through a little rubber bellows (that looks like a little accordian bellows.....if you try to push down on the lever/rod by hand and it does not go down....it is stuck.

Besides the bowl is probably the hardest part of this carburetor to clean, due to all the little passages and check valves in it.

If the paper gaskets get torn or appear tattered, change them too.

If the jet set (long thin jet going up through the middle of the carburetor) is plugged up, replace it. You will never be sure that it is absolutely clean, due to the two different diameter of the tube....you can not tell it something it stuck on an inside ledge. The opening is so small, and a particle breaks loose, it will plug up again.

If you do not use an ultrasonic cleaner and use some sort of solvent to soak it in, you will need a new o ring set.

Mike

Everything Mike says is (of course) true (as usual) and reliable (always has been).

But, here's my take on the accelerator plunger being stuck based on my experience with many, many of these carbs:

If you DO find that the piston IS stuck in the bore, as Mike described, it is my experience that the accelerator pump circuit inlet check ball (in the bottom of the piston bore) will, more than likely, be loose to the point it will either fall out when you turn the float chamber upside down or it just won't seal. Bottom line? It's not repairable. That FACT, along with the scoring and distortion of the cylinder walls for the pump circuit that you are likely to find make it fruitless to do anything but "clean it up a bit".

Having said that, you can do two things. One, you can just put it back together with the check ball loose. If the passages in the chamber and in the main body are clean, the carburetor will work and the engine will start and run nicely through all speed ranges. This is because the accelerator pump circuit just plain doesn't do much for the performance of these engines. Most people wouldn't notice if you left the pump piston out completely!

However, if you want to restore the carburetor's ability to respond to "snap" throttle acceleration and gas the engine immediately without hesitation, you can simply buy a new float chamber. Item #5 in the parts page link below. While a new carb is about $200, the float chamber "kit" is $43. And, since Mike is spot on about getting the passages in the bottom of the chamber clean, it points to how CRITICAL the chamber is to proper operation of the carb and engine.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/H...005/BF15D5 XHA/CARBURETOR (MANUAL)/parts.html

If you buy the float chamber, you will also need a piston kit (item 14) and a new "cap" (item 11) The "cap" is essentially a dust cover but is very important in keeping water and debris out of your carburetor. If your old one is still good I would STILL recommend replacing it and as preventive measure.

If you decide to go with a new chamber, MAKE SURE the chamber passages are clean. I have found casting sand in brand new, right out of the heat sealed plastic bag, float chambers from Honda. DROVE ME CRAZY when the engine wouldn't run!

Remember NEW means...Never...Ever...Worked.

Good luck.

The accellerator pump was not stuck and I will double check all you guys said .

I blew through all the passages last year when you said to clean it . I was hoping not to spend money due to loosing already . It ran fine after I cleaned out the crap that was in the tank and carb.

When I get the manual I will do a thorough cleaning the time. I didnt replace the jet gasket last time but I will replace whats needed this time . Any money I put in will be my loss so hopefull wont have to spend too much. I will let you know when I get my manual next week . I wrote down notes from what was said hear.

I have a question . I dont see a choke or primer on the motor . Is it automatic.

I bought a brand new motor . I just want to sell this motor and move on. The attorney general did nothing and if I sue he is playing games and puttiing his stuff at a different location .

Again thanks for your help and I will let you know when I get the manual what I find.
Jack

Yes, it has an automatic fuel enrichment system. That system is VERY reliable and almost never gives problems.
And yes, I recommend using a new gasket and oring set. The tiny oring at the top of the jet tube is CRITICAL to proper operation and should be replaced with a new one any time it's disturbed IMO. Use a little Vaseline jelly on that oring and the one under the idle mix screw to help them seat corrrectly.
Have fun!

I got the manual and finially got some time . The problem is the book shows all carbs with BF and some numbers . Mine is a Looks like PL24 and above its 02BD . Some looked close in the book but not exact . Next thing the long skinny tube I think its the jet . I poped it out before and didnt replace the gasket thing . I will this time . The main emulsion tube wont pop out so I cant get the tube out.

Does the emulsion tube screw in or should it pop out . The out side gasket has a plastic spacer and its broke so I will be replaceing the gasket and spacer .

Any help getting the emulsion tube out . I tried pushing but it may screw in . Any info to get me started . Also the jet that screwes in the side wont come out but jooked good so I didn't mess with it . Thanks Jack

The jett on the side that you can't get out is the main jet and doesn't need to come out. The emulsion tube should pretty much fall out when you remove the end plug. When it's out, you can go into the inlet side of the carb throat (Venturi) and, using a flat tip pocket screwdriver, wedge it between the carb throat wall and the jet set "lip" and give it a twist. The jet set should then "pop" down and you can then pull it out the botttom of the body with your fingers. Just don't force it or grab it with pliers

I cleaned all the passage ways . The emolsion tube did pop out finially . I tried before and this time it worked . I cleaned all the passsages with carb cleaner , soaked the jet skinny tube and the emolsoin tube . Everything looks good . Now my next thing . My boat motor isnt listed in the book or elsewhere . I have a BABJ-1102956 frame , BEAGJ-1010702 engine its a 2002 BFT 9.9 LHS . The output side of the carb has a gasket , a plasic peice thats like a spacer and another gasket thats bad . Also the thin jet thing has a oring . This is the parts I need . I would like to order them from the site to give back for being here . Can you help me find the parts so I can order them here . I hoping this is the light at the end of the tunnel now . Thanks for your continued help .