Crusader 270hp Stalls below 1800rpm

willow said:

Is this what you have????

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I would start first at the remote joystick. Pull the control head out and check all the tabs for power when you move the joystick

The spotlight itself is not difficult to take apart and inside you will find two very small 12V DC motors with brass gears. I had one gear split and the entire motor had to be replaced.
The difficulty is finding parts and to the best of my knowledge there is only one person in USA who has parts and that is a person in Florida, and worse yet, you may have to buy the entire little motor, and they are NOT inexpensive.

If the brass gear just jumped out of its track due to trying to get the light to move to far one way or the other, you may be able to "hand-fix" it.

I tried to fix the brass gear on mine as it would not turn at all but the gear was split and was just spinning on the motor shaft...could not be fixed and I had to get the entire motor, almost 1/2 the cost of a new light !!!!!


If this is not the type of light on your boat .....well you can certainly disregard this post

Click to expand...

Don,

I think Fred deleted his off-topic post and perhaps you should do the same to your reply. I think we can be certain that his flood light problem is not related to the subject of this thread and he should have started a separate thread.

Erich

Erich............

Sorry....just attempting to help him by replying to the last line of his post ............which is Number 10 in this thread.

If you want to delete my post answering his question, feel free cause I have no way of deleting it.

After a set time the "delete" option tends to disappear.

Don,

I am not the forum police and can not delete your post. I know you were responding to his request and trying to help and is what this place is all about...boaters helping other boaters. Please don't take my suggestion the wrong way. It was only a recommendation. The info you provided was good and others may find it helpful also but would be better if under an appropriately titled thread.

Erich

Sorry for the confusion, and thanks for the intended help, Willow. I should have started a new thread to address my search light problem. My fault.

Fred:

I had a similar problem on my ITT Jabsco and I also thought it was in the controller. They referred me to a repair shop in New Bedford, MA. I called about sending the light and controller to them and the tech told me to first take the light apart and call him back. After unplugging the controller, removed ring holding bulb, removed bulb, use mallet to remove case and low and behold, 1 of the wires to a motor (one motor each for side to side and up and down movement) had broken at the solder connection. Jumped the wire, hooked to 12-volt source and worked. Resoldered and called tech to thank him.

My advice, remove the case and hook up to 12-volt source and work the controller. Look at the wires and also if anything is restricting the movement of the plastic gears attached to the motors. With any luck, it will be as easy as mine.

Gene

Thanks Gene! I'll try that.

I do not know how this turned out , but I can tell you this.
I have had many carbs over the years. You will find that the
carb can have the fuel float become stuck in the down, or OPEN
position, causing the carb to over fill with gas, this stalls the motor.
If by some luck you are in a position to keep the throttle advanced a great
deal, then you can keep the motor running at high speed, but as soons as you
reduce speed there is too much fuel and too little air flow, so it floods.

This is very common, after years of use. The fact it was "Rebuilt" means the mechanical
float level was not set properly during installation or there is an obstruction that
keeps the float from closing and stopping the flow of gas.

The solution is to remove the carb top and inspect the function of the fuel float.
It may be that the tech forgot to replace the fuel seat with the new one in the kit, or
maybe he failed to use the little level gauge to set the float, or maybe there is a device
or tool left inside the bowel, and that is jamming the float.

The thing with your ignition was a addional "buried Treasure" item.

BTW - The old COILS do FAIL, and one symptom is you run the boat and
have a great time, then for "no reason" the motor stops.

I found out the hard way, much like you were doing, it was the stupid
COIL, and it overheated after 20 minutes of run, then after it quit, we would go get
ice cream and it would start fine and we could get home.

The copper COIL WINDINGS get old and they heat up and fail, then they cool down and work.

This is a normal failurem but since they last twenty years or more we
forget they are not perfect.

I installed a new COIL and matching BALLAST RESISTOR and problem
was solved.

Good Luck.

OK, this is my final reply to this thread until I can safely un-winterize her in the Spring.

I warmed up the engines in the slip as usual. No problems. Upon leaving my slip in Cape May to head to my dry dock location 40nm North, just before Christmas, I ran her from the slip, through the harbor about a mile or two to the fuel dock and shut her down. Uneventful. Took on enough fuel to get home, maybe 20-30mins. Went to start the same engine again, and it would seemingly flood out and stall within seconds. On one engine, I pushed back from the fuel dock, started the bad engine, and goosed it to above 1800RPMs. I ran my 40nm trip without throttling down. No problems. When I got to my Northern inlet, I pulled the throttles back to come off plane. No problems. Ran a various speeds from the inlet to the dock (about 5nm). No further problems.

I believe I have a carb issue. Possibly a sticking float or a mal-adjusted float from the rebuild. In the Spring, after any further chances of freezing, I'll de-winterize it, and try again. My carb guy will be on site for this, and I'll demonstrate the problem to him. I'm assuming at this point, he will likely want to take it in for another rebuild.

I'll post again when I have more info. Thank everyone for your help.

Fred, have you swapped carburetors as to see if the problem followed the carburetor?


Is your starboard engine a RH Reverse Rotation engine?
If so, how is the camshaft driven?
If chain/sprocket driven, swapping ignition distributors is not an option! (camshaft would also be CW rotation)

However, if double gear driven (camshaft rotates CCW..... same as Port side engine) swapping ignition distributors will be an option.

Doing this would allow you to see if the problem follows the ignition distributor.

Reason: again, these Hall Effect units can be very sensitive to alignment. If the distributor shaft is allowing for any wobble or play, this may be part or all of your problem.




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