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Farm Fresh '83 M440

Sawdust

New member
First post here...looking for any advice you guys can offer. I recently purchased a '83 Mastercraft Stars & Stripes with a Chrysler M440 engine with gear reduction. The boat has been in storage for the last fifteen years and is a real gem, including the engine. All I know for sure at this point is that it has about 1100 hours on it and it's not ceised. Now I'm no expert mechanic... I probably know enough to be dangerous, so before I start working on bringing this thing back to life I thought I'd come here and see if any of you could offer some advice to point me in the right direction. I should also mention, the previous owner thought it needed some valve work as it would burn a little oil at start up.
 

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First post here...looking for any advice you guys can offer. I recently purchased a '83 Mastercraft Stars & Stripes with a Chrysler M440 engine with gear reduction. The boat has been in storage for the last fifteen years and is a real gem, including the engine. All I know for sure at this point is that it has about 1100 hours on it and it's not ceised. Now I'm no expert mechanic... I probably know enough to be dangerous, so before I start working on bringing this thing back to life I thought I'd come here and see if any of you could offer some advice to point me in the right direction. I should also mention, the previous owner thought it needed some valve work as it would burn a little oil at start up.

Ayuh,..... Check all the fluid levels, pull the coil wire, 'n roll it over on the starter for a few bursts to pump oil through the block,...
Put the coil wire back on, add gas, 'n Light 'er off,...

Once I heard it run, then I'd be doin' a full diagnostic tune up on it,.....

Blue smoke on start up is usually valve guides,...
 
Ayuh,..... Check all the fluid levels, pull the coil wire, 'n roll it over on the starter for a few bursts to pump oil through the block,...
Put the coil wire back on, add gas, 'n Light 'er off,...

Once I heard it run, then I'd be doin' a full diagnostic tune up on it,.....

Blue smoke on start up is usually valve guides,...

Valve guides...yes. Was also told to put some ATF in the cylinders and turn it over by hand over the course of a few weeks before trying to fire it up. Thinking I'll wait until spring. In the mean time I'll probably want to think about replacing all of these old hoses. Know anywhere I can find some specific to this engine?
 
Oil at start up usually means intake valve seals. They can be changed without pulling the heads with the right tool (and technique). Don't bother with the exhaust seals--they aren't even needed.

Jeff
 
Valve guides...yes. Was also told to put some ATF in the cylinders and turn it over by hand over the course of a few weeks before trying to fire it up. Thinking I'll wait until spring. In the mean time I'll probably want to think about replacing all of these old hoses. Know anywhere I can find some specific to this engine?
Broken valve seals pieces have a bad habit of being drawn into the oil pick up screen. When you change them try to get an idea how much may be in the crankcase.
Rockers and shafts only go on one way, mark everything before you remove!
You surely want to replace all the old rubber stuff.
Expect the engine to smoke big time after using the ATF to loosen the rings.
Just a side note, I have been able to remove the intermediate shafts (without pulling the intake) on big block Chryslers to use an oil priming shaft on a drill to pump the galleries up.

Not specific but for general reference M440 download..................
http://marinemechanic.com/chrysler/chrysler.htm
 
If it was put away properly, you shouldn't have any issues.

Most definitely remove the sea water pump and disassemble it, and replace the impeller.
An impeller sitting at rest within a pump housing for that long, has taken it's tole on it.

Suggestion:
Rather than pulling the high tension lead from the coil or cap, remove the power lead from the coil instead.
This will prevent the high tension voltage from having no place to discharge to.


.
 
Broken valve seals pieces have a bad habit of being drawn into the oil pick up screen. When you change them try to get an idea how much may be in the crankcase.
Rockers and shafts only go on one way, mark everything before you remove!
You surely want to replace all the old rubber stuff.
Expect the engine to smoke big time after using the ATF to loosen the rings.
Just a side note, I have been able to remove the intermediate shafts (without pulling the intake) on big block Chryslers to use an oil priming shaft on a drill to pump the galleries up.

Not specific but for general reference M440 download..................
http://marinemechanic.com/chrysler/chrysler.htm

I really appreciate all the good advice!

Dave, noticed you live in the western suburbs...I'm in St. Charles. Ever consider doing a little engine work on the side?
 
Hey Saw, you're close by! I'd be more than happy to help you where I can. FYI the honey do list here is lengthy so I'm barred from bringing any projects home. When you gonna "rip and tear"?
 
Hey Saw, you're close by! I'd be more than happy to help you where I can. FYI the honey do list here is lengthy so I'm barred from bringing any projects home. When you gonna "rip and tear"?

That's great Dave! I'm in the same boat as you as fas as the honey do list is concerned but I'm thinking I might have a few hours to start the process of removing the heads this weekend. Honestly all this Chrysler stuff is new to me...so my biggest concern right now is making sure that finding new head, exhaust and intake manifold and carb gasket won't be a big problem.
 
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Does that motor even have an oil leak? I would hate to break apart something that original but I'm funny that way... ;P

jack
 
Dave69 & Sawdust, I'm also in the western suburbs (Aurora), I'm in the process of putting together a LM318 I bought on craigslist earlier this summer. Problem is it came as a pile of parts in boxes! I'm looking for some local talent to help out. Matt
 
Saw, when I say "rip and tear" I meant in the context as "start working on" or getting the engine in a ready to fire up condition. I probably should not have used that. Do not pull the heads off because you "may" have a bad seal or gasket. A "little" oil burning never hurt anyone! You need to determine compression statistics and cylinder worthiness before going to that extent. You also need to determine whether oil pressure is available and ignition is working before starting. Fifteen year old oil and filter will need to go! I'd say plan on two changes. If you are not planning to replace the rubber components you at least need to check for dry rot on the hoses and belts and replace old impeller as Rick states in his post. Chances are the carb may flood due to sticking floats or bad seat from sitting so long. It will probably need a rebuild. You also need to plan on completely cleaning out the fuel system from the tank, through the lines, fuel pump (which will likely have a bad diaphragm), and replace filter(s). And that's just the beginning!! Sending you a PM.
 
Well that settles it then...no removing the heads! I'll focus on the things suggested here including checking the compression and see where it stands from there.
 
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