Honda 225 trim and tilt problems

Hi,
I have twin 2007 Honda 225's. The Port engine when trimmed all the way up will slowly drop all the way down on its own. Its works fine, sounds fine just after an hour of being up its drops down. The manual release screw is screwed in tight. Anyone know a fix to this issue?

First I would make sure the fluid in the reservoir is filled to the top. If it needs fluid, top it off, raise and lower the engine several times, then lock it in the up position with the manual lock, let it sit for 10 minutes or more and recheck. Repeat as necessary until no more fluid is needed. Then see if the problem is still there. If so, and you are absolutely sure that the manual release is seated tightly, then you have a problem inside the tilt/trim mechanism. Fixing those things is beyond my level of competence. If the topping off fixes the problem temporarily, but eventually returns, then one of your seals is leaking.

Thanks reservoir is full and the release is fully seated and the trim don't move.

What do you mean "the trim don't move"? Do you mean when you trim it up and before the tilt hydraulic engages, it stays in place?

The one engine does not move up or down but the electric trim motor does go on but it is at a higher pitch then the other motor that does go up and down.

Okay - at this point you are going to need to remove the T/T motor. It is possible that the shaft is broken or has slipped out of its notch where it mates with the hydraulic pump. It is not too difficult to do. From memory...

You need to fully loosen the manual valve and elevate the engine as high as you can get it. In the past, I have backed the back of the boat into a garage, and used a tow strap on a come-a-long. Regardless, you will need a strong overhead beam that can hold the weight of the motor. Turn down the manual lock for additional safety. Remove the large pin at the top of the tilt hydraulic cylinder. Be careful not to bugger up the bushings. That will allow the entire system to tilt forward enough to get to the bolts holding the motor. If I recall correctly, there are four.

At this point, make sure the motor is not loose or cockeyed in its position. If it is, that could be the source of your problem in that it is not properly engaging the pump. Follow the two wires from the motor into the upper cowling and unplug them, and pull the wire to the motor free. It may make it easier to remove the trim angle sensor. If so, take pictures and mark it so you and put it back in the same position. Remove the 4 screws and lift out the motor. Be careful with the large O ring between the motor and the pump. Check the condition of the slot on the end of the pump shaft and the mating slot on the motor.

If the problem is not evident at this time, then make sure that the drive shaft on the pump moves rather freely, and bench test the motor. If the motor needs to be replaced come back to me because there is an API equivalent for under $200 instead of the $500 Honda motor.

wow thanks unfortunately I am at a marina and boat is too big to trailer home so I guess I am bringing it in for service but thanks for the help!

Sure. Whoever services it, make sure they know about pulling the pin on the top of the tilt hydraulic cylinder and tilting it forward to get to the motor, instead of disassembling the whole side of the frame. That is what I did the first time, and it was a pita. Hondadude (Mike) told me the better procedure described above.

will do thanks again

Got apart and the problem is with the pump assy that is the part that the motor attaches to any experiance with what is likely wrong and a fix would be helpful or info on where a can get the part at a good price.

Don't understand what part you are talking about. What number on this diagram?

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/H...Later/BF225AK0 XA /POWER TRIM-TILT/parts.html

11,
I removed part 20 from part 11 and noticed that the small washer under the o-ring was damaged I wonder if that could be the problem this is what is used to manually lift or lower the motor

Yes, if the manual valve (Part 20) was not sealing correctly, that would likely cause your problem because it will be allowing hydraulic fluid to pass through, lowering the engine just as if the valve was loosened on purpose. Did you bench test the motor?

yes the motor is good
As to the valve part 20 o-ring I would think if the o-ring was the problem the motor would not stay up and what the problem was it would not move up or down was stuck in a 70% up position

Well, now I'm confused. At the beginning of this thread you said "The Port engine when trimmed all the way up will slowly drop all the way down on its own." The damaged O ring would cause that to happen. So please re-state your exact issue.

lol sorry I had a similar issue and I thought this was my post just realized that mine is down just a bit but my issue is; I have 2002 225 twins and last time I took the boat out everything worked great however as I was tilting up the engines to put the boat away for the week one of the engines would not go up all the way figured low on oil two weeks later I came back and tried to fill the oil and it seemed full could not really add very much and the engine after words still would not go up or go down it is right now about 90% up, I can hear the motor come on when I hit the trim switch. Any thoughts on what the problem could be and how to fix?

Okay, do I understand correctly that you have removed and tested the motor, removed the manual relief valve, and found a damaged O ring? Are any pieces missing from the O ring? The only think I can think of is that one of the relief passages is clogged up and will not allow the hydraulic fluid to pass correctly. This assumes that you are sure that the tilt rod that the motor pivots up on is not frozen.

yes yes yes the o-ring is in good shape but there is a small washer below it that was broken into two pieces a bigger peace was under the 0-ring and the small piece I found at the bottom of that valve that washer I think squeezes the o-ring to make it seal, tilt rod is not frozen.
Do you know what is in the pump assy part 11 that can break other then a passage clog which could be possible. Have you taken the pump assy apart ever to clean and is that a good idea?

Sorry, I've never been into that assembly. But based on previous experience with other motors and looking at the diagram, there doesn't look like there is anything in there that can break. When you say the tilt rod is still frozen, I assume you are talking about the tilt push rod, correct? When you pulled out the manual relief valve, that should have retracted completely. When I was saying that you need to make sure that the tilt pivot rod is not frozen, I was talking about part number 19 at http://www.boats.net/parts/search/H...A2 XA /STERN BRACKET + SWIVEL CASE/parts.html In the T/T assembly diagram, I don't see any other relief valves that could be malfunctioning. So it looks like there must be a clog somewhere in the hydraulic channels. The first thing I would do is to lift up than lower the motor a bunch of times in a very controlled manner to try to see if it will break loose under its own weight. Beyond that I'm lost on a solution. Jimmy? Mike?

thanks for the help the manual release does let down the engine and part 19 is fine thanks again

x32 and Chawk,

I never had to take one apart other than to change the motor or reseal the pistons.

Is it working now? I am confused.

Mike

Mike no it is not working I think what I will do is take the pump assy off the other motor and put it on this one and see if it works or take the manual release out and try this one in the other motor and see if that works to narrow down what is the problem any thoughts on this idea?

one last thing do you think the problem could be the manual release valve part number 20 there is an o-ring that is in perfect shape but below is a washer that I think squeezes the o-ring for a good seal but what puzzles me is why the motor didn't just drop down if oil is passing the o-ring

That sounds like a good plan. That will eliminate a lot of guessing.


Just make one change at a time, so you limit what parts you will need to buy.

Mike