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best type/brand of Bolt extractor?

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Beagleman

Regular Contributor
Hey guys, here's a general question that I feel's best answered with those who possess experience from the school of hard knocks.

Here's the thing, my 25 year old outboard's after cracking off a few bolts from the repair process. In turn, used a few different kinds and made a f&*k out of my casings. So, to further harm my motor, I'm wandering, what's a good brand, type of idiot proof bolt extractor were can I buy it the cheapest and the like.

Thanks upfront.

Robby
 
...what's a good brand, type of idiot proof bolt extractor...
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No such beast. Extractors break very easily especially when the bolt is corroded in place. Patience is a big key to success when removing broken bolts/studs. Making a jig out of steel plate and bolting it in place really helps prevent bit wandering. I try to place the item w/the broken bolt standing verticle when possible and saturate it w/PB Blaster for a few days. W/enough bolt above the surface just grind/file it flat and center punch the bolt. Reverse cut drill bits help sometimes. Start w/an 1/8" drill bit w/a taped on depth gauge to prevent drill thru. Change the bit to a larger one until only a thin shell of the bolt is left allowing the extractor to get a good bite on it. Use a tap tool to hold the extractor and nurse it slowly; don't force it...use plenty of lube...someone said ATF is good to use. If it won't budge then drill out all but the threads and retap it...again use patience.
 
guyjg said:
No such beast. Extractors break very easily especially when the bolt is corroded in place. Patience is a big key to success when removing broken bolts/studs. Making a jig out of steel plate and bolting it in place really helps prevent bit wandering. I try to place the item w/the broken bolt standing verticle when possible and saturate it w/PB Blaster for a few days. W/enough bolt above the surface just grind/file it flat and center punch the bolt. Reverse cut drill bits help sometimes. Start w/an 1/8" drill bit w/a taped on depth gauge to prevent drill thru. Change the bit to a larger one until only a thin shell of the bolt is left allowing the extractor to get a good bite on it. Use a tap tool to hold the extractor and nurse it slowly; don't force it...use plenty of lube...someone said ATF is good to use. If it won't budge then drill out all but the threads and retap it...again use patience.
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Thanks for advice and good info. I'll try anything once, twice if I like it. BTW, a head of a bolt on the exhaust panel (port side of motor when mounted on boat, attached to cylinder head). Its on of the middle/inside ones (as in not around the edge), and only a bit gone from it. However, some water is trickling out at idle. So, do I have to extract that bolt or is JB weld worth a shot? Or will jb weld hurt anything? BTW, if the motor and water coming out of tell tale hose stays cool even after thirty seconds of having the motor running (and water coming out of bolt hole) does that mean my thermostat is functioning properly?
 
As stated before, extractors can break so you really have to be careful. If you did break an extractor the only way I know how to get it out if you cannot remove it in the conventional manner to EDM. Translation=expensive. Suggest that you follow the suggestion of one of the other contributors by putting plenty of Blaster or similar frozen bolt penetrating solvent. If you do screw up the threads you can always install hell-coils. They work great and I have used them many many times. One the next install of bolts use some never-seize on the treads.
If all fails with the extractor, drill out the bolt and install a hell-coil.
 
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