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Stern drive transom - good or bad? repair urgency and options?

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prof_fate

New member
Traded a truck I've been unable to sell for a 75 crestliner crusader 19' harley edition. Yes, the bikes - both were owned by AMF at the time.
The boat is in good shape overall just shows some use from age.

I traded for it and hear it run - but have not seen it float. Appears it will - no holes, cracks or even crazing. The floor under the carpet feels like plywood that is delaminating a bit - no biggie i'll fix that next spring.

The issue I'm concerned about since i"ve never had a stern drive boat before, is where the stern drive mounts the transom is 'in' a bit - a strait edge across the back would make it obvious that it's not dead flat/strait. Knocking on the glas shows about 6" out from the sterndrive to not be 'solid' like the rest of things.

Inside it's about the same - the stringers on the bottom are solid, and inside and out I see no cracking at all.

I want to use the boat a few times this fall, no skiing or tubing, no high speed blasts - but I don't want to shove the drive into the boat if the transom where to fail.

I guess i"m asking where the stresses are in this type of drive system? The engine it bolted to the stringers, the drive pushes against the engine...so what 'gives' under power?

As for replacing/repairng the transom is it possible to do it from inside and not damage/ cut through the exterior gel coat - as it's painted in the harley colors I'd like to leave it untouched.

TIA
Chris
 
prof_fate said:
Traded a truck I've been unable to sell for a 75 crestliner crusader 19' harley edition. Yes, the bikes - both were owned by AMF at the time.
The boat is in good shape overall just shows some use from age.

I traded for it and hear it run - but have not seen it float. Appears it will - no holes, cracks or even crazing. The floor under the carpet feels like plywood that is delaminating a bit - no biggie i'll fix that next spring.

The issue I'm concerned about since i"ve never had a stern drive boat before, is where the stern drive mounts the transom is 'in' a bit - a strait edge across the back would make it obvious that it's not dead flat/strait. Knocking on the glas shows about 6" out from the sterndrive to not be 'solid' like the rest of things.

Inside it's about the same - the stringers on the bottom are solid, and inside and out I see no cracking at all.

I want to use the boat a few times this fall, no skiing or tubing, no high speed blasts - but I don't want to shove the drive into the boat if the transom where to fail.

I guess i"m asking where the stresses are in this type of drive system? The engine it bolted to the stringers, the drive pushes against the engine...so what 'gives' under power?

As for replacing/repairng the transom is it possible to do it from inside and not damage/ cut through the exterior gel coat - as it's painted in the harley colors I'd like to leave it untouched.

TIA
Chris
Click to expand...

Ayuh,.... Ya don't say what the Drive Is,..?? Merc,..?? OMC,..?? Volvo,..??

What motor,..??
 
19' 75 crusader 995 (harley davidson edition), fiberglas w/ enclosed bow.
GM 6cyl and mercruiser 165 stern drive.

I am measuring disabled. I can measure 3 times and get 4 wrong figures. Always. guaranteed. On everything. I do well on other stuff though.

Talked to the local boat 'store' and they've done this sort of thing often and didn't make it sound like a big deal. But then, they do it all the time so to them it's not I suppose. He said they use cardboard to make the templates.

He said to use 3/4 A/C CDX doubled up, and west epoxy. I asked about marine ply and he said it's overkill. I've seen on line some use birch ply - not sure if it's different inside but is prettyier on the faces. Is PT/wolmanized wood a good or bad idea? It won't rot...not sure if the chems in it react with resin or not.

gebdehdi.jpg
 
Last edited:
prof_fate said:
19' 75 crusader 995 (harley davidson edition), fiberglas w/ enclosed bow.
GM 6cyl and mercruiser 165 stern drive.

I am measuring disabled. I can measure 3 times and get 4 wrong figures. Always. guaranteed. On everything. I do well on other stuff though.

Talked to the local boat 'store' and they've done this sort of thing often and didn't make it sound like a big deal. But then, they do it all the time so to them it's not I suppose. He said they use cardboard to make the templates.

He said to use 3/4 A/C CDX doubled up, and west epoxy. I asked about marine ply and he said it's overkill. I've seen on line some use birch ply - not sure if it's different inside but is prettyier on the faces. Is PT/wolmanized wood a good or bad idea? It won't rot...not sure if the chems in it react with resin or not.

View attachment 7709
Click to expand...

Ayuh,..... Birch will rot, before the glue is even dry,....

I use plain ole exterior plywood,...
 
Thanks.
Took it out sunday and while I saw the bilge pump work on land it made noise but pumped no water when it was actually needed. Some water leaked in so I'll def be replacing the transom come spring.
and CDX it is.
 
prof_fate said:
Pricey. $300 for a 3/4 4x8 sheet - plus shipping of course. vs what, $30 at most for a 3/4 4x8 CDX? If I was going to keep the boat for a decade, go transoceanic or perhaps even dock it over the summer I'd think about it. But this is what, a $1500 vessel? I'm thinking the transom and floor will need 3 to 4 sheets.
Click to expand...

Just for the transom. Do your floor in plywood.
 
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