Logo
FULL SITE MENU

2002 Honda BF225 Cranks but won't start

W

wiltop

New member
I have a 2002 BF225 with 353 hours, had the unit on the engine stand for about a year while I dry docked boat to replace stringers, transom, floor, etc installed the motor about 3 weeks ago and have been re-doing boat electrical since then, (replacing some corroded wires, re-routing etc) not the engine harness whatsoever, tried to start it up, won't start, troubleshot engine, found hi-press fuel pump not working, removed it, benched it still not working, bought new pump benched it before installing, new pump is good, installed it, still not working, only have 2.5V going to the pump, decided to replace main relay, still not working, still only 2.5V, checked all ground connections and cleaned corroded ones (very minimal) still only getting 2.5V, does the ECM have any control on this voltage drop or is it in the harness somewhere?:confused:
 
The ECM controls the relay that turns on the pump. Fuse #2, 10 amp fuse, is the origin of the voltage. 12v comes out of the fuse, goes through the fuel pump relay to the fuel pump.

Make sure the ground lead to the pump is really a ground.

Does the motor crank? Just would like to know if the main battery cables are good and you are getting a full 12v to the motor.

Mike
 
Thanks Mike, motor cranks real good, 2 new batteries as well. I will need to check that ground to be sure, but I did check for any opens on the 2 wires feeding the pump, fuse #2 is good. I plan on grounding the pump directly to see if that works. The manual says that the ground wire should have continuity, it has.
 
I would then pull a spark plug out of cylinderhead and leave it connected to spark plug wire and see if you have spark. I had issues of burning up fuel pumps on my 200, finally resolved them, but hope you cleaned out strainer where high pressure pump is...meanwhile I will scratch my head and think of other ideas.
 
Wiltop - any progress on you fuel pump problem? If the fuel pump is good, and the #2 fuse is good, then it seems to me it must be a problem in the wiring. Try to bypass the wiring with a direct connection.
 
I'm about ready to try that just to isolate the wiring being the problem, does the ECM control the voltage or does it just give it a ground signal to the main relay? Thanks.
 
So if the fuel pump relay turns on (2 sec) then the ECM should be ok, I can hear and feel the main relay turn on for 2 sec but not hear the pump. Thanks Mike.
 
Stick a test light on the leads that go to the fuel pump and watch the light. It is possible that the connectors to the pump, inside the vapor separator are not making a good connection.

The test light will let you know if 12v is getting to the vapor separator. If it is, then check the resistance of the leads going into the vapor separator. If it is an open circuit, then it is time to take the VST apart again and check those connections.

Mike
 
I plan on powering the pump with a known 12V source to see as per Chawk_man to see if it is a wiring problem from the relay to the pump. any other suggestions? Do you know I can go ahead and start the motor while I direct the pump? During normal operations, does the hi press pump always stay on? Thanks for all.
 
It always runs. If you are not sure if it is running, take a long screwdriver or stick and hold it on the vapor separator and put your ear up to the other end. It is just a "simple" stethoscope.

You should be able to run the motor that way.

Mike
 
I finally got a chance to work on the motor today, I directed the pump, no surprise pump turns on, it should its new. So I have a new fuel pump, new main relay and fuel pump still won't activate on its own, any suggestions?? I also tried running the motor with the pump connected directly to a 12V source, it is still not running.
 
Ok, I think I need to get back to basics, I now have a new more complex problem, I don't have any spark and I checked it earlier and I thought it had. So the only thing I did now is bypass the emergency switch, any suggestions?
 
Have you checked the feed voltage to the ECM, high pressure pump fuse etc with the key on? Almost sounds like a corroded connector in the main +ve feed somewhere (not the battery cables but the +ve feed that comes off from them within the engine).
 
Thanks Aliboy, I did check on that and there is voltage to the ECM but no voltage to the pump, I checked every connector and every fuse on the engine to make sure it is not corroded or open, all checks out.
 
Well you looked at the kill switch, but what about the neutral safety switch on the engine (or at the helm in controls)? If things are out of adjustment too I have seen that happen...

Sobie2
 
ok, guys have an update and it is a big one. Finally got the fuel pump to run, cleaned fuse block contacts, seems to get it done. My big problem now is that I have low compression on 3 cylinders 2,5,6, the rest are about 160psi. Don't know what to check first now, obviously need to correct the compression issue, got any ideas? This engine was running fine about a year ago when I took it off the boat to renovate it, could it just be a sticking valve, is this common? I can't see it being the pistons, but until I take off the heads, i'll never know. Any suggestions are definitely appreciated, love the engine never had anything wrong with it other than changing the O2 sensors.
 
A leak down test should tell you what valves (intake or exhaust) and/or rings are a problem.

How bad was the compression?

Before you go through a teardown, run the motor on a mixture of Yamaha Ring Free in a small tank. The cylinders may just be carboned up.

Also, make sure that you have your shifter in throttle only and advance it all the way for the compression test. Pull your safety landyard to eliminate the spark.

Mike
 
Back
Top