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1978 115 Chrysler Deluxe Reving too high how i turn it down

C

comet424

Regular Contributor
hi I got this engine and it had a broken shifter lever in the engine the L shape part so everytime I started damn ths was always in gear and ran high, now I got that part fitted in doesn't like to stay running at first. Once I guess it warms up It stays in neutral but revs high. So why is it reving high I did put this engine on another boat but ont think the controls are one wrong, and only uses 2 cables so what is wrong? and how do I know if water pump is working if there is no pee stream from the engine
 
I thinking the floats are stuck maybe or do they have needle valves? in those bowls I haven't taken apart as I dunno if you can buy a kit for them as I seen gas coming from the intakes or at least the top carb
 
Start with, clean the carbs.
Usually they don't need parts other than the bowl gasket.
When taking them apart,spray the bowl gasket with WD or oil them.
That way they will not dry out.
Set the air screws at 1 turn out.
Go to that link and set the carbs up according to the directions.
http://forums.iboats.com/force-chry...iming-75-150-chrysler-early-force-431021.html
http://forums.iboats.com/force-chrysler-outboards/carb-timing-tutorial-601659.html
These motors didn't have a whizzer tube.
The holes on the back of the motor is the only sign of water pumping.
You can install one if you want.
On the side of the block(stbd) there is a long thing attached to the cable and then attached to a thingy riding on the carb roller. That's called a towershaft.
At the bottom of the towershaft there is a slotted screw and lock nut.
That's used to set the idle.
 
I hear ya some reason I cant hit enter lol.. ok my engine not a force but a charger does it matter? also don't think I can figure out the 30 degree or percent for TDC but ill readjust the 2 screws on the idle I guess or its the air screw as this one is on the top right of the 2 carbs u gotta take the plastic housing off with the 3 screws to get a good adjustment. but ill try the carb cleaner I did put fuel injector cleaner in but it didn't help. and you cant even buy anymore carb cleaner in a can to soak. all you can buy is in a spray can. But those must be air screws I reading your words again I know it made the engine slow down and die for me when I turned them in a 1 turn but still had the fuel come out the top carb. oh and you said about the water line I still didn't see anything on the engine to even notice, so where does the water go back out the the exhaust? as I looked on boats net here at the plans but there is no showing of a Outlet. my model is the 1159B8B if that helps more?? thanks for help so far .........................
Jerryjerry05 said:
Start with, clean the carbs.
Usually they don't need parts other than the bowl gasket.
When taking them apart,spray the bowl gasket with WD or oil them.
That way they will not dry out.
Set the air screws at 1 turn out.
Go to that link and set the carbs up according to the directions.
http://forums.iboats.com/force-chry...iming-75-150-chrysler-early-force-431021.html
http://forums.iboats.com/force-chrysler-outboards/carb-timing-tutorial-601659.html
These motors didn't have a whizzer tube.
The holes on the back of the motor is the only sign of water pumping.
You can install one if you want.
On the side of the block(stbd) there is a long thing attached to the cable and then attached to a thingy riding on the carb roller. That's called a towershaft.
At the bottom of the towershaft there is a slotted screw and lock nut.
That's used to set the idle.
Click to expand...
 
ok got problems. ugh wont let me hit enter. well from the video I adjusted the scrib mark and adjusted the throttle body to be closed more they were open more. so I got it running nice and smooth basically least slow. reved it worked good . then after 10-15 min idling I hear the engine knocking and I noticed now the white paint turned brown. but why? i do have a clear hose 1 that i seen water go through but it really wasn't clear its a burnt brown color hose. and the other hose is just a black rubber hose. i used a lazer heat sensor and read the back and it was 450F what should it be is that a failing pump or too long in tub or what would that be frig hope its not damaged? and there are no idle screws unless the 1 screw on top right of carb to allow how much fuel in? and i set them to 1 turn as you call those i think the air screws more help be great
 
i just looked up this engine and the carbs are not the same as the one for my model frig sakes as they show the IDLE Mixture set screw dead centre for this engine but whats actually on the engine is off set to the right. there is no air screw. and what do i set the idle mixture screw too?
 
i was re looking close at idle looking through the brown hose there is no steady stream up, either it looks like just bits of water going up or just a bit is that maybe the water pump not working right? and if i need to replace the pump how hard is that and are parts still replaceable?
 
ALL the parts are still available.
If your running it in a bucket??
You need to be REAL deep in the bucket.
It's needs to be about 2-4 inches over the cavitation plate.
The impeller is easy to change.
Just make sure it's all in one piece when removed and use some grease when re-installing.
Running on a hose, tape the muffs in place with duct tape.
The idle mix and the air screw are the same one.
Yours should be on the right hand side?
Needs to be set at 1 turn out for inital adjustment.
Fill out the profile? Location? You might be close to someone who can help?
 
ya running it a tub from walmart but its aboe the cav plate not that deep i figured as long as the intake the slits on the side of the round part at bottom. and figured the outlet water is out the exhaust in the water and cant find ears that fit on this style without breaking it. Im from hastings Ontario Canada. and this frustrating still cant hit enter. So what do i all need to order?? and do you have steps or video on how to remove the water pump how to get access to it right? i guessing the black plate comes off
Jerryjerry05 said:
ALL the parts are still available.
If your running it in a bucket??
You need to be REAL deep in the bucket.
It's needs to be about 2-4 inches over the cavitation plate.
The impeller is easy to change.
Just make sure it's all in one piece when removed and use some grease when re-installing.
Running on a hose, tape the muffs in place with duct tape.
The idle mix and the air screw are the same one.
Yours should be on the right hand side?
Needs to be set at 1 turn out for inital adjustment.
Fill out the profile? Location? You might be close to someone who can help?
Click to expand...
 
ok i lifted the engine out of tub and its covered in white goo i guess from sitting in water too long with the oil/ i did notice black oil coming from seam of the lower part and the motor leg. but i did find the 7 bolts under neath is the lower part heavy as i by myself working on it can i pull it out in the tilt position without straining my back? or does it have to be in the lowered pos
 
ok got lower half off but pump seems ok?? but also i cant slide that ring off and you can see the spline gear is crooked is that normal has burr on it i guess that's why i cant get off?
tn_20130815_144252.jpgtn_20130815_144259.jpgtn_20130815_144304.jpgtn_20130815_144313.jpgtn_20130815_144327.jpgtn_20130815_144333.jpg
 
also i just realized this buzzer should have gone off it it was too hot so how do i test if the thermoswitch still works? do i add 12 volts on the prob and then the buzzer should go off? i see you cant buy it anymore are there replacement options
 
The splines on top of the shaft, your lucky it came out of the powerhead!!!
Usually it twists and won't come out.Someone must have hit something real hard!!
Take a crescent wrench and put it on the shaft and make it tight.
Then slide it up to ring.Then tap it with a hammer.
The slits are a LONG way from the pump.The pump won't draw water up unless it's been primed.
Usually in the water the cavitation plate is under water.

To test the buzzer? Key on,motor off.
Take a jumper wire and touch the end of the sender and touch a ground.
It should make the buzzer go off.
No noise? Then test the horn.Disconnect the wires, supply 12v to the horn and see if it makes a noise??
No noise? You can replace with a car horn or a motorcycle horn.Even wire it into the boats horn?
IF???? The senders bad? They can be found.You need to look on e-bay or try Valley Sales in Prudenville,Mi.
Call him.E-mails don't seem to work.
 
still cant hit enter drives me nuts.. but would htat been a big rock this person hit? i guess it cant be bent bent i see you cant buy this shaft no more. so what happens when it twists like that does it mean it doesn't come out of engine ever? so is that water pump propeller ok?? or should replace it what else should i replace or look for .. on this engine is there a way to add a temperature gauge or no? and i seen one video use clear hose for the fuel line what kinda hose is that? and id like to change the 2 water hoses to clear hoses what kinda hoses do you need? as the one is clear but its burnt brown color other one is just fuel line. I tried to look on the diagrams from boats net but i cant find where the hoses are on the engine isn't under power head. And ook ill try the testing the buzzer would have been nice it worked before engine turned brown it still runs just hope not too much damage. and for the Air/mixture screw i set to 1 1/4 turns out but the screws don't match each other they are seated different when turned in and these aren't the carbs that i guess came with engine least not by the pictures. ill post more pics later. But what clear hose should i look for that can handle heat? and ill go test the buzzer today.......
Jerryjerry05 said:
The splines on top of the shaft, your lucky it came out of the powerhead!!!
Usually it twists and won't come out.Someone must have hit something real hard!!
Take a crescent wrench and put it on the shaft and make it tight.
Then slide it up to ring.Then tap it with a hammer.
The slits are a LONG way from the pump.The pump won't draw water up unless it's been primed.
Usually in the water the cavitation plate is under water.

To test the buzzer? Key on,motor off.
Take a jumper wire and touch the end of the sender and touch a ground.
It should make the buzzer go off.
No noise? Then test the horn.Disconnect the wires, supply 12v to the horn and see if it makes a noise??
No noise? You can replace with a car horn or a motorcycle horn.Even wire it into the boats horn?
IF???? The senders bad? They can be found.You need to look on e-bay or try Valley Sales in Prudenville,Mi.
Call him.E-mails don't seem to work.
Click to expand...
 
ok i tested with car horn it works now just need to know if thermos switch works but u gotta over heat the sucker to make sure its working. when i grounded out the little buzzer didn't work. so that bites so now how do u test let it over heat some? throw in bowling water?
 
Last edited:
The pic of the impeller.
IT'S BAD!!!
There is a temp guage available.
Try Faria, or Teleflex.
Ask over on iboats . net Someone over there might know.
Pics of the carbs? Pics of the pump housing?
 
You need to be DEEEEEEEP in a bucket for it to pick up water.
If you supplied voltage to the buzzer and it didn't work.
Then replace it with a car/motorcycle horn.
Saw the thermo switch on e-bay.
Also check at Valley Sales in Prudenville,Mi CALL him.He doesn't always answer e-mails.
 
ya i replaced horn with car horn just wish i could test it to make sure thermoswitch works fine but i guessing it be ok? here are bunch of pics. Also what kinda clear tubing can i use for the water water lines. that can handle heat but that will let me see the water. i did notice the vent hole plugged or that would have filled in water so that would have made it have no water in in. to be properly primed. Ok so ill order a new propler. i didn't remove the wear plate or gasket so i can re use it i hoping. here are the pics of the carb tootn_20130817_073415.jpgtn_20130817_073422.jpgtn_20130817_073430.jpgtn_20130817_073436.jpgtn_20130817_073522.jpgtn_20130817_073532.jpg
 
tn_20130817_073724.jpg if you need more pics let me know hope i did ok. so ill try to order from my marinea on Monday water pump wheel so far
 

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oh and where on the engine can you add a temperature gauge?? so i can have buzzer and temperature gauge so i have 2 fail safes working
 
ok so I took better look I guess wasn't pluged the vent hole whoever did it had 2 vent holes on here ones on an angle and the old one I guess they welded over. But the inside wall was groved so I lightly sanded it. And the inside roof is groved is that ok?? I never took the rest of the pump apart. The plate gasket or check the lower gasket do I need to or they probably fine? here is the pics of the pump. I ordered the 2 pump seals and the impellertn_20130819_093837.jpgtn_20130819_093843.jpgtn_20130819_093849.jpgtn_20130819_093857.jpgtn_20130819_093953.jpg
 
oh was told by a mechanic for Chrysler engines that that clear hose you see that's brown is not for showing water but is for un burnt fuel to go back into the cylinder so how can I see if the water is coming up
 
To check for water being pumped, the top of the cylinder head above the thermostat housing is a plug.
That plug can be used for a tell tale or a temp sending unit.
The pump housing is still useable.
 
oh ok ill take a look then. The mechanic said its junk but he only looking at pics as I couldn't find a local. but there is no rebuild kits online but he sells ones but its 150 bucks cuz he sells wit hthe housing. also he said water should come out of under the cowl but is that true? all that's under there is another exhaust 2 fat holes no pee stream is that where the water should be coming out of ?
 
ah ok the marina near me has the impeller 25 bucks for now ill get that I guess. and get this housing later as long as it does its job lol. so the mid section is that the Boot Idle Exhaust? looks like a nose 2 big holes. does that water supposed to come out there? and the snout you call it is that the adjustable fin that the exhaust comes out?? now my other question is some reason my tach isn't working is there a way to test with a multimeter to see if its working that its getting power to the tach....
Jerryjerry05 said:
Naw it's useable.
Not the best of shape but it will pump water.
You can buy a new at different places.
boats . net maybe franz marine ?
This site doesn't carry the older stuff.
FK1069
This is the part # for the kit. Contact the supplier and ask if it contains the housing?

The water exits in 2 places. the hole in the mid section and the snout under the cavitation plate.
The pee thingy is something you can add.
Click to expand...
 
ok my next issue is the the prop lock washer it used to be plastic cuz its the part of the cone that I don't even have, and I don't like the plastic and not much options I did take the lock spacer/washer off my 200 merc fits fine dunno if I can get the metal tab for the smaller nut but you can see a small gap is that ok? also when I turn the blade inside the lower end I hear it dinging like you hitting a bell is that normal? and no the prop isn't rubbing against the the outside. I hoping the sound is ok??/ oh and last thing for now the rubber mounts that hold the cdi module I think it is on they are 30 bucks a piece can I not just use a bolt and put some rubber washers in between or does it have to be 2 spate bolts glued to a pice of rubber?? oh and there is the pic of the idle boot exhaust and water is suppoed to come out of there right??? tn_20130819_121301.jpgtn_20130819_121339.jpgtn_20130821_094600.jpgtn_20130821_094612.jpgtn_20130821_094616.jpg
 
oh and is this myth or true on my Johnson I burned out my engine I wanna rebuild it 115 84 but weeds plugged up the intake... now I was told if u shove in reverse it will blast the weeds out of the little ribs but I say that's BS as that makes the pump not pump up the water up anymore. so is this true or false or are they talking about weeks in the prop
 
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