honda bf200 engine warning light and peeping

hey i manage to find some body that is selling a few of the PN 70PZ-ZY30200 - The testing harness. do you think it is worth getting ? as i will be getting in my service connector this week, so was looking to get the testing harness also as they was hard to find, but found somebody that has a few selling

Take off the engine cover and the plastic cover over the electronics on the front of the engine. There you will see a red four-pronged female plug.

Use a paper clip to shunt the lime green/white wire to the black wire – that is, the two wires that are closest to the engine when the red service connector is correctly set in its holder. If in doubt, invest in a SCS service connector, which you can order online - part number 070PZ-ZY30100.

Once connected, turn on the key switch and observe the number of blinks on the check engine (MIL) light. The blinks will repeat until you turn off the key.

If the MIL comes on, then goes off after a few seconds, there are no codes in the EPROM. OR if the MIL comes on and stays on, there are no fault codes.

If the MIL starts blinking, then count the blinks, which will indicate the fault code. You may get long blinks and short blinks. For example, two long blinks, followed by five short blinks, would be a fault code 25. The blink sequence will repeat itself until you turn the key off. If there is more than one fault, you will get multiple fault codes. For example, three short blinks, followed by two long blinks and five short blinks would be fault codes 3 and 25. Post the number of blinks and I will try to tell you what the error code is. Or, send me an e-mail at [email protected] and I will send you the codes.

Clearing Fault Codes (From Honda Dude)

Essentially, to clear the codes, you operate the kill switch 5 times with the shunt (shorting device, or paper clip) in place and within 20 seconds of the key switch being on.
I recommend grabbing the safety lanyard very close to the switch that it is attached to so you can pull it to off and push it to on without losing the lanyard.
· Connect the shunting device (technical term for paper clip.)
· Turn on the key switch.
· Pull the safety switch to off, then push to on, then pull to off, then push to on, then pull to off, then push to on, then pull to off, then push to on, then pull to off. That should be five times off and on and off within 20 seconds from when you turn the key switch to on. When you get to the fifth time off...you should hear one or two beeps. The codes are clear. If you did not hear the beeps, try again.

· Turn the key switch off
Remove the shunting device and run the engine. Then check for codes again. If all is clear, you may just have had a one time occurrence. If you do have codes, you will just have to troubleshoot depending on the code number that you get.

good day guys
UPDATE: ok i just got in all the parts , so me and my mechanic did all the changes, we change out the hi pressure fuel filter and yes it was very clogged and full of muck. we drained out the vapor sep , and cleaned out the water sep and changed the low fuel filter and added a separate water fuel/sep.

went out for a test run, and sure enough right away after like 3.5 to 4000rpm the engine warning light came on and peeping. so basically nothing has change and with all the same symptoms as stated at first.

so now really lost and what else to do

any other ideas what the problem can be now?


p.s we also did the test at full throttle with opening the fuel tank cover and same ting

ok , i just went back to the boat to check the codes as i thought it would be easier for me to see the red light blinking at nite. as i got the service connector now

so here are the codes i found , just so you know i repeated the sequence on checking the lights blinking 3 times just to make sure i was reading the correct codes of blinking. and i got 5 different code readings. so if you can tell me what these codes are ?

first code : 1 long blink followed by 4 short blinks
second code : 2 long followed by 3 short
third code : 2 long 4 short
forth code : 2 long by 5 short
fifth code : 4 long by 1 short

now i am not sure if these are old codes or new ones as i did not clear out the codes before we went to test run, guess i should have cleared out the codes before the test run right? i guess i was not thinking i would have gotten the warning light coming on again with the parts we change so thats why did not clear them out. but anyway these are the codes

so let me know ?

thank you

Yes, you need to clear the codes first. I suspect you do not have all these problems, but here are the codes

14 = faulty or disconnected IAC
23 = faulty or disconnected knock sensor
24 = faulty or disconnected heat sensor 1
25 = faulty or disconnected heat sensor 2
41 faulty or disconnected HO@ heater circuit OR spark plug misfire.

Send me a e-mail and I will return all the fault codes in a .PDF file. - [email protected]

ok will shoot you an email in a bit

but from after changing out those parts and still having the problem, what else do you think it can be now?

thanks

well i guess one of those codes has to be the problem but wich one , now after i reset it do i have to go and run it over the high rpm mark and get the warning light to beep in order to get a new error code? or once i reset it will give me a new error code one time?

if i have to run the boat might not get to do it till weekend again

but from looking at those 5 error codes wich one do you think is likely the cause of the warning light coming on over that high rpm mark?

You will need to take it out and get it to activate the alarm again, then bring it in and pull the codes. I would go after the IAC code first. If that has fouled or malfunctioned, it could generate the other fault codes.

hi guys

UPDATE: i got a chance to go back to my boat. i reset the ECM . and went out for a test run and ran the boat over 3.5000 rpm to get the warning light to come on. it come on
got back to the dock connected the service connector and got only 1 code fault a code 23= faulty or disconnected knock sensor

so this is my problem right the knock sensor is not good?

is this the replacement part i have to change for my 2004 bf200

and does anybody know if this knock sensor part is the same for honda cars? as i was pulling up online that part numbers and it was also listing it for several honda cars also

thanks

It is the correct part number. If the car dealer has the same number part , then it is the same knock sensor.

Never had to change one, but the manual says to remove the injector bases and cylinder heads. So it is not the easiest to get to.

Mike

Yep - that is about the most difficult of all the sensors to get to. Not ever hear of one failing. Not something I would try to do myself. Not sure where the wiring runs, but I would check that, and also consider what sets off the knock sensor in the first place - timing off, worn timing belt, belt tension out of specs, bad plug or plugs, low octane fuel, etc. Check all of those possibilities before tearing the engine apart.

One more thing, I would decarbonize the engine really well using Sea Foam, Yamalube Ring Free or similar. A knock sensor can be set off by too much carbon build up in the cylinders and valves. I guess the bottom line is that you should assume that the knock sensor is doing its job by eliminating all other possibilities before paying to have the engine torn apart and replacing sensor.

wow just my luck it is the hardest place to get to . was just looking at the manual and damm really have to almost tear down the engine just to get to it.

this really sounds bad for me

u mention maybe bad plugs , i was remembering something here, about 2 weeks ago wen my mechanic was checking out the engine on the waters for the problems , he notice that one of the bolt that holds the spark cap was missing and of course it was loose so most likely it was moving in and out when running the boat. so we put a new bolt in it. so dont know if this may have cause anything for the knock sensor going bad or anything else??? but when we put the bolt in the warning lights was still coming on so dont know if it had solve anything . another ting is also since you mention low octane in the fuel, i remember all of this problems happening since filling up the gas tank full for the first time at another gas station that i dont normally use, could it be that low octane in that gas or soomething?

i am just trying to figure out different things here , as really dont want to go and tear down my engine if i really dont have to.

so any ideas about the spark plug ting and the fuel i just mention ?

or maybe putting in new spark plugs might help solve the knock sensor ting detonating ?

hey honda dude: does a hds tool give you a more precise and detail of what the real problem can be although i know it is a code 23 know sensor? if it will tell me more better what the problem is causing the sensor to come on

thank you

Try running it on a remote tank with 93 octane non-ethanol ... :rolleyes:

honda dude / chawk man. any thing on above that i mention?

thanks guys

Not really. Can't comment on what the HDS would tell you. As I said before, eliminate the reasons that the knock sensor would activate. Plus what Curmudgeon suggested with running on a portable tank with 93 octane.

well was hoping hondadude would have been able to answer on the HDS tool, but have not heard from him a few days

I have a bf90 honda that was not running right at high speeds, after changing all the filters and checking the gas "which looked fine" it still ran rough. I finally try a new portable tank with fresh gas from another service station. Ran like it never had a problem. I would try and run it on a portable tank just to check that off the list and maybe at the same time it will fix the problem

It would seem that bad fuel would set off the knock sensor. When you octane is low, the engine pings and the knock sensor should tell the ecm to make adjustments to compensate for the pinging. If the fuel was bad enough and the engine could not adjust the timing enough, the light may stay on, and I would suspect the retarded timing would limit performance. As suggested above, try running it on a separate tank of fresh fuel and see if that makes a difference. If the fuel is bad, even with a small tank of 87 octane, it should improve. Maybe run it for a few minutes to get the clean fuel through the engine, then do the reset and run it to see if the light comes back and how the performance is.

thanks for the info guys . i will try the remote tank as my next option as i dont have one to try right now . but my first option that i am going to try tomorrow is add some octane boost to see if that will help as somehow i just feel this is a fuel problem since it happen right after putting in fuel from another gas station. as you said maybe the octane is low or maybe bad too.

then if that does not work i am going to try the remote tank and run it with that and see if that solves the problem. i did buy the knock sensor already as i got it pretty cheap to have just in case that has to change. but i am leaving that as my last option as i really dont want to go and pull down my engine just to change the sensor and it is not that

but will keep you guys updated this weekend what happends

It might not hurt to see if you can pump a little of that fuel from the tank into a glass jar to look at it and see if it looks/smells strange. You may see water in it as well. The octane booster may not help if the fuel is bad enough that the ecm cannot get the timing to correct the misfire from it. I look forward to hearing the results after you run it this weekend.

Are u having the same problem or had? What motor do u have

Agree with above. Forget the octane booster because that does not eliminate or confirm the possible problem with bad fuel. Use the auxiliary tank with new, clean fuel, burn through the old fuel that's in the system, reset ECM, and test.

To answer the HDS question on the knock sensor. Yes, the HDS will indicate the percent knock retard. It can also let you look at other things that may be going on like timing, injectors, map sensors, temperature, etc.

I think you guys may be on the right path looking at the fuel. In the Service Manual (in the margin) it says..."Note: Contamnated or stale fuel can cause this DTC"...

Mike

hondadude, yeah tinking on getting the new DR.H kit as he has them selling pretty cheap and it comes with all the new software and u dont need to be updating it all the time. so think that might be a good investment for me to have for my honda motor

UPDATE: went out yesterday on the waters and to what most you guys said the octane booster did not help same error but it was worth a try . but i manage to burn out the rest of the less than half a fuel tank i had in . so now the tank is on E. so the next step now is i am going to put in about half a tank of new gas in it and give it a run and see how it does. but not till maybe during the week or next weekend i will get the chance

so hope this last option will work so i dont have to tear down to change out the knock sensor wich i am hoping is still good

I don't have the same issue, just some possible fuel economy concerns and a weird isolated fuel smell on both of my BF200's. I am still trying to find the fuel smell. O2 sensors were just changed, so I will see if that helps the economy at all.

If your tank had any contamination in it, then adding more fuel, even if the tank is near empty, may not solve the problem. A remote tank is the best bet to rule out your tank, but getting the old stuff out and putting in fresh may show some improvement.

Well just thought getting the old fuel out and adding new would work.

But how do u hook up a external tank is that someting easy to hook it up ?