Logo
FULL SITE MENU

honda bf200 engine warning light and peeping

Totally agree with Ep4 - you need to completely drain and clean your tank, or run on an axillary tank. In the past I have used an aftermarket auto fuel pump to clean out the tank - slow but safe.
 
It depends on how far you want to run it. I would say the larger tank would be safer. You could probably just use one of those portable red or orange 6 gallon tanks that everyone used to use on outboard boats. There should be a vented cap and there will be a place for a fitting to be installed. You can install a nipple into the tank, then connect your fuel line to it. Assuming you have a water separator, you can disconnect the line coming out of it that has your primer bulb on it, then use that hose to connect to then nipple on the portable tank. Make sure to get something to plug off the fitting on the separator that you disconnect. A piece of hose with a plug or a bolt with a clamp should suffice.
 
hi guys

just to update: i have not had a chance to go back out and do the tank test as yet. but i was just talking to my mechanic that had change out the hp and lp fuel a few weeks ago. apparently he told me he did not get to drain the VST as he said the little screw that you suppose to unscrew was not there or he said when he put the screw driver there he did not feel anything for the the screwdriver to fit into to turn or anything like that. he said it was just flat so i dont get that at all. and i know for sure i did see him putting a screwdriver there but did not feel anything. but i thought that after he went back and got thru to drain it but he did not. i even look at it my self and dont see no screw myself in der i put a long driver in der and there is nottting to screw so dont get it. but i know for sure he never took the screw out because he did not even know where that part was to take it out. i had look in the manual to find it

so do you tink this could be the problem that maybe who ever i bought the boat from never put back in the screw or maybe the head of the screw is worn out or something i dont know? but if the screw was not in there what would happend as i dont see no fuel or notting coming out of the hose that is connected to the VST at the bottom

confuse now
 
Well, I'm confused too. There is a very small passage that allows the VST to drain out the clear plastic hose. It does get clogged up, but the set screw that opens up that passage should be there right next to where the clear plastic hose connects. If it is not there, then you likely need to remove the VST, open it up and clean it thoroughly and install the shutoff screw. There is a float valve in there that you need to make sure is operating correctly.
 
yeah i do see that clear plastic hose you are talking about. but now wonder what problems it would cause if the screw is not there, i meen the boat was running fine when i bought the boat for about 5 months until i full the gas tank full with gas from a diff gas supplier.

but i am still gong to run the boat with new fresh gas from the same supplier i always used to buy it from and see from there how it runs, if not i guess the last option is changing out the knock sensor wich i am running from doing. oh boiiiiiii
 
Maybe someone broke off the sides of the screw and not it is just a flat surface. I know one of mine was clean and I could turn it with no problem, but the other one was rusty and it was frozen. I put some pb blaster on it a couple of times over a day or so, then I was able to get it to turn. I did not drain a lot of fuel from the VST on my engines, but I figured if water was in there, it would come out first. Once I got the screw cleaned up and moving, I packed the top of it with grease to seal out any moisture and prevent future issues. As chawk said, if you have no drain screw visible, then you will need to remove the vst to take it apart. Drain it, clean it, then get the damaged screw out and install a new one, so you can drain it in the future.
 
I have the honda BF225hp and had similar problem.

There is a service bulletin 56 which when installed has completely fixed the issue.

I would ring honda directly and give them your engine serial numbers to find out if this fix is applicable to you and your 200hp (from memory I believe it is) make sure this is installed first... if it isn't try to get it under warrenty if that fails consider getting it yourself.

On the 225hp I would get to cruise at 4200rpm no worries... any faster and the single beep would kick in with the motor kicking into limp mode... when you try to diagnose it there isn't allways a code thrown either so its not easy. you start the boat and keep going for a bit then it kicks in again... very, very, frustrating.

I hope this is helpful

DM
 
dogmatrix,

Doesn't sb56 refer to water getting into the # 6 sparkplug? I did not know there was a bulletin for the screw in the vst.
 
Yes service pack 56 is replacing the exhaust to stop water intrusion... looking at the original post, a similar thing was happening with my rig... tried multiple different fixes and after everything had SP 56 installed which solved the original issue. The error's were also not showing up and the honda dealer was unable to find any faults occuring. it's worth ringing the dealer to see if this fix has been installed, I am not in anyway a mechanic or greatly familiar with these engines (like CHawkMan etc) I just had a problem that sounded very similar and SB56 was the fix. Considering honda can probly tell you if it's been installed on your engine via a phone call and the engine numbers it's a pretty easy thing to knock of the list of possible issues. Cheers DM
 
Yeah ok but you said u was not getting any faults or codes. I am getting code 23 wich is a knock sensor. So don't tink it has to do wit SB 56 I guess
 
Hi guysWell went out today wit fresh gas on a external tank. And same problem peeping after 3000rpm. Knock sensor warningSo now I guess I really have no other choice I have to change the sensor. I have the new sensor. So can u guys tell me what parts I will need to get when I have to take out the heads. Like new gaskets ect..?
 
I thought you had the Helm shop manual. That will tell you what you need. I'll say again, that is not a job I would likely undertake on my own.
 
Re: honda bf200 engine warning light and beeping continuously every 3 seconds

chawk_man said:
Yes, the "engine" light is the MIL light. If you have never changed out the high pressure fuel filter, that can very likely be causing the problem you describe.

The VST is the vapor separator tank. It is located on the right side of your engine at the back where the upper cowling meets the engine cover. The VST is in place to assure an adequate amount of non-turbulent fuel is available to the high pressure fuel pump. (The fuel in the VST tank is kept underpressure to prevent vaporization, thus preventing the fuel from becoming too lean under variable demand.)

On the back starboard side of your motor, you will see a clear plastic tube looped around a holder. Unhook it, and look down at the base where it connects. Beside the connection is a small set screw. Use a long 10”or longer, flat blade screwdriver to open the set screw - slowly. With the end of the hose extended downward into a clear container that will hold at least a quart of liquid, start opening the set screw. Do not open too far - if it comes out, you will need to remove the cowling to retrieve it. Anywhere from two to three pints of gas, and maybe some water and gunk will come out of that tube. Be patient, the last stuff to come out is usually slow, but drain out as muchas you can. If there is water, or any gunk, then your fuel-water separator and low pressure fuel filter have failed and need to be replaced. At that point,you should also change out the high pressure filter which sits on top of the fuel pump and is held in place with three 5 mm screws. If there is no flow,blow low pressure compressed air back through the tube to open it up.
Click to expand...

Hi chawk_man
I've tried everything and still get the continous beep every 3 seconds.
I've changed the high pressure fuel filter and cleaned the high pressure pump screen.o
I've removed and cleaned out the VSV bowl and changed the seat.
I've changed the low pressure fuel filter, the water seperators etc.
I've changed the O2 sensor.
Replace both thermostats.
New fuel lines and 300+ gals of new fuel
Ive reset the alarm several times.
And I still get the damn beeping.
Now here is something interesting. When I tried to vent VST via the clear plastic tube and did not get any fuel. I then blew back into the clear pastic tube and was able to clear the line. I confirmed this because I was able to get fuel return and vent out of the VST vent tube located on top of the VST fuel bowl. After clearing the clear plastic tube and opening the screw, I did NOT get any fuel!!!!
Any thoughts???
Other than the damn alarm, the motor runs great at all rpm's and does not shut down.
 
Whatever you blew into the vst probably came back down and plugged the line again. If you had the vst out and cleaned it, then changed the seat, why didn't you clean out the rest of it, including the drain where the clear tubing is? Didn't you try and drain the vst before removing it? At this point, if nothing comes out of the clear tubing when the drain is backed out almost all the way, then you might need to take the vst back apart to clear it. You might try putting a hand vacuum pump on it first to see if you can suck fuel out of the clear tube, along with whatever might be clogging it.
Something like this should work:
http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-69328.html
 
Before trying to drain the VST again, turn on the key switch for about 10 seconds to let the HP fuel pump charge the system, then try it. You may need to blow air back through it again.

Please describe the alarm again - are you saying that you are getting a single beep every three seconds? I think that the normal interval for the "long" malfunction beep is about 1 to 1.5 seconds.

Back to your original issue of the malfunction beeps. If that is a legitimate malfunction, then the EPROM in your ECM will be storing a fault code. Have you tried pulling the malfunction codes by shunting the service connector, as has been described many times on this forum. Alternatively, send me an e-mail at [email protected] and I will send you the procedure for pulling the codes.
 
chawk_man said:
Before trying to drain the VST again, turn on the key switch for about 10 seconds to let the HP fuel pump charge the system, then try it. You may need to blow air back through it again.

Please describe the alarm again - are you saying that you are getting a single beep every three seconds? I think that the normal interval for the "long" malfunction beep is about 1 to 1.5 seconds.

Back to your original issue of the malfunction beeps. If that is a legitimate malfunction, then the EPROM in your ECM will be storing a fault code. Have you tried pulling the malfunction codes by shunting the service connector, as has been described many times on this forum. Alternatively, send me an e-mail at [email protected] and I will send you the procedure for pulling the codes.
Click to expand...

Bought vacuum pump and will do as you said. Turn on ignition for 10 sec to charge system and try to get flow out of clear tube.

As for the alarm code. I jumped green/white & black wire on red service plug. Only code or lights that I get is an continuous intermittent light every 3 sec.

Regarding the continuous beeping. It occurs after 3-5 min of operation. It stops after shutting down for a while and returns after 3-5 min. It happens in my driveway as well as on the water.
 
You said: "I jumped green/white & black wire on red service plug. Only code or lights that I get is an continuous intermittent light every 3 sec." Hmmm, it's either continuous or intermittent, it can't be both. I'll assume you mean intermittent. A single blink on the MIL light every 2 to 3 seconds indicates a faulty HO2 sensor. Since you said you replaced it, check your connections. Clear the fault codes, run the engine, then test again. If you did not clear the fault codes after replacing the HO2 sensor, then you may be reading an old fault code thrown off by the old HO2 sensor.

Okay, back to the warning buzzer. I assume you mean that you are getting a CONTINUOUS alarm after 3 to 5 minutes of running. Is that correct?

If so, then that is typically an overheat alarm or low oil pressure alarm. When that happens again check the lights on your key switch panel. If the green oil light is on, the red overheat light is on, the MIL light is off, and the alternator light is off, (and none of the lights are blinking) then you are overheating. That is typically caused by (1) a failed water pump, (2) a clog in the water cooling passages, or (3) a thermostat stuck closed. I know you said that you replaced the thermostats. Did you install them correctly? Heat sensing coil on the bottom?

If the green oil light is off, and all of the other three lights are off, and none of the lights are blinking, then that is indicating low oil pressure. There are several reasons that can happen, and none of them are good. The oil pressure sensors are deep in the engine and difficult to get to.

So, let us know what is happening on your key switch panel when the alarm goes off.
 
Back
Top