finding the missing impellor vien in the exhaust?

If you have been flushing the powerhead via the thermostat opening and have a good flow down the water intake tube,then I think anything in there will have been flushed out.
If you do remove the exhaust cover,I would be 99% sure you will need new gaskets.The torque I can't help you with,but I'm sure someone will be able to give you that info if you do decide to pull the covers

..."If you do remove the exhaust cover..."

...you'll probably break a few bolts off in the block. Best not do that.

Jeff

I'm not sure, but if I remember right, I don't think that the bottom bolts for the exhaust cover can be removed while the power head is still in the lower cowl. I would see if you get a good stream, once everything is put back together, before you go pulling covers off. There is a wash screw just above the anticavitation plate on the starboard side; if it will come loose, and if you can find a hose adapter (flush plug M-22-80218M) for it. I've never used mine; it's frozen, but if you're running in salt water, it may be worth the trouble to check it out.

H. I. McDunnough said:

I'm not sure, but if I remember right, I don't think that the bottom bolts for the exhaust cover can be removed while the power head is still in the lower cowl. I would see if you get a good stream, once everything is put back together, before you go pulling covers off. There is a wash screw just above the anticavitation plate on the starboard side; if it will come loose, and if you can find a hose adapter (flush plug M-22-80218M) for it. I've never used mine; it's frozen, but if you're running in salt water, it may be worth the trouble to check it out.

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THanks guys, I'm forever in debt. If you're ever in my neck of the woods (now its Rhode Island), come over for some quahogs on me.

All the best.

Robby

Outside of new England, no one knows what "quahogs" are!

Jeff (former Mass resident)

H. I. McDunnough said:

I'm not sure, but if I remember right, I don't think that the bottom bolts for the exhaust cover can be removed while the power head is still in the lower cowl. I would see if you get a good stream, once everything is put back together, before you go pulling covers off. There is a wash screw just above the anticavitation plate on the starboard side; if it will come loose, and if you can find a hose adapter (flush plug M-22-80218M) for it. I've never used mine; it's frozen, but if you're running in salt water, it may be worth the trouble to check it out.

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Not familiar with your engine, but that is about where the stainless steel vent screw is located for venting the lower unit oil when filling. Better ensure you don't run the water hose into that one.

Why don't you keep it simple and don't tear things up. Why not just get a new stat, put it in, test it and if it doesn't solve all your over heat problems THEN start worrying about what you can dig into next. Who knows, those impeller blade parts may have washed through the system years ago! But one thing is for sure. With a stuck shut stat, you WILL overheat!

Mark

Texasmark said:

Not familiar with your engine
Mark

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We know; it's really a pre 1983 Yamaha, Mark; it doesn't ressemble a Mercury at all.

fastjeff said:

...you'll probably break a few bolts off in the block. Best not do that.Jeff

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And that too....It really becomes a PIA.Your vocabulary would probably turn the air a darker hue of blue
PS. What are "quahogs"? Being a non New Englander

THey are hard shelled clams that you use a rake to retrieve in the mud. My cash crop for fishing is oysters up until may, then shrimp and squid for the remainder. Plus, you only get 14 cents per clam from the buyers/plans and that's only top quality clams. I let my dragger nets, pots, trawls, and Norse lines do the work. When I used to live in Newfoundland (i.e. before I immigrated to R.I.) I fished herring and snow crab.

So haventaclue, should I assume/safe to say the piece of plastic impellor has far left my engine if I'm after already;

-flushing the water tube when the lower unit and thermostat housing were off?
-having the impeller housing out?
-had a steady stream (like It was taking a piss) when it was going before I changed the impeller?

Thanks for any help.

Robby

P.s. I grew up listening to shane Mcgowan, Ronny Drew, and Luke Kelly.

If you put the hose in the thermostat hole,flushed down and have a good flow out of the water tube and vice versa,then I think you have flushed anything out that was in there.
I would put it back together,stick it in a tub,run it for a half hour.Keep a close eye on it and a hand on the block.If after five minutes you can still keep your hand on the block,then you are good to go.
The thermostat opens when the block reaches normal operating temperature,143f,I think.


"P.s. I grew up listening to shane Mcgowan, Ronny Drew, and Luke Kelly."
Very good trad Irish musicians,well two of them anyway,never a big fan of Shane McGowan's.

SO, can I run it before I find a working thermostat? If so, for how long until I do damage?

THanks in advance.

RObby

Actually, Shane McGowan is from London (he's London Irish). I like the whole doing things his own way despite what anyone else thinks.

For years outboards ran without stats. But the water passages were designed for that condition. Stats help to get things going when it's cold. On fouling plugs, that's one reason 2 cycle OB engines have gone to higher voltages with faster rise times.....to fire the plug before the oil can bleed off the voltage. So, that's really not an issue to me unless you do a lot of trolling and don't use something like Sea Foam added to your gas/gas-oil mix to keep the innerds clean.

The only problem I personally have with no stat is the stat mounting hole and the location of it. Pull the stat and look through the hole at the top cylinder of the engine. At low speeds this is where the water will exit and whatever part of that upper cylinder is above it will be out of the water. At higher speeds, you can expect the water pump to fill the whole cavity with water as it puts out out a lot of volume.

So, you can speculate and say that at low speeds, the engine isn't generating a lot of heat and with the aluminum cylinder partially submerged, and it being aluminum and highly thermally conductive, it will take care of cooling itself. That is a valid argument. And at the higher engine speeds, the pump is "pressurizing" the block with cooling water so it's completely submerged and that's a no brainer.

So would I run with out the !@#$%^ thing. Depends. Your engine, your decision.

Best I can do,
Mark

Texasmark said:

The only problem I personally have with no stat is the stat mounting hole and the location of it. Pull the stat and look through the hole at the top cylinder of the engine. At low speeds this is where the water will exit and whatever part of that upper cylinder is above it will be out of the water. At higher speeds, you can expect the water pump to fill the whole cavity with water as it puts out out a lot of volume.

So, you can speculate and say that at low speeds, the engine isn't generating a lot of heat and with the aluminum cylinder partially submerged, and it being aluminum and highly thermally conductive, it will take care of cooling itself. That is a valid argument. And at the higher engine speeds, the pump is "pressurizing" the block with cooling water so it's completely submerged and that's a no brainer.


Mark

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Makes sense.

kimcrwbr1 said:

If the engine has a thermostat/s it is by design. Running without a thermostat will reduce the life of the motor and effect performance.

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I think the guy is financially strapped in having to spend $50 for a stat and is trying to talk himself out of it. He is running 2 threads on this engine and I have been over it with him from the very start when his stat failed the string test that is in the service manual and identifies a stuck shut stat. So I think at this point what you said is a moot point. I'm fixing to bail out of this and am only writing this because I got an email on the thread.

Mark

Hey thanks guys, and your forwardness texas mark. My worry is that if I'm testing the stat and its bad, how long can I run the motor without hurting it? Another thing that i'm wondering; is there a specific torque that I use for the bolts on the thermostat housing?

Sorry for the confusion and late reply, i'm home on the rock for a couple of weddings (poor bastards).

Thanks for any help

Robby

Snug those bolts--that's all you need. You can test the t-stat in a pan of boiling water.

Jeff

fastjeff said:

Snug those bolts--that's all you need. You can test the t-stat in a pan of boiling water.

Jeff

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I tried it and the stat never moved. So, can I still put it back in and run the motor to see if I get a clear stream? If so, how long can I run the motor (and how hard) until I risk doing damage?

Thanks Jeff.

Robby

i tried it and the stat never moved.

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the stat is no good...replace it.

Thanks man, I'll give you an update when done.

BTW, are you in the part of Ohio that Danny Green was in?

Robby

I'm 20 miles north of Cincinnati.

He was cleveland, correct?

I ask because a good friend of mine's father (who now lives in Newfoundland, I.e. were I'm from) was one of Danny Green's relatives.

Cleveland is 200 miles to the north on Lake Erie. My father was from there back in the 1930s.