Honda 225 won't start no lights at ignition

Honda 225 won't start no lights at ignition and was working fine until I disconnected everything to clean and tighten connections. Been having some electrical problems. Replaced some corroded fuses on the Lenco Trim tabs and Seastar Power assist which were oddly enough tied into the ignition switch. Anyway, my starboard motor kept blowing #3 10amp fuse. Replaced all mentioned fuses and holders listed above. Now starboard motor runs fine and port motor won't start. First, all the four lights were going off with a constant alarm. So I disconnected everything and clean connections and now I get nothing from the key switch. I do hear a clicking noise out of the lower black box relay when I try to trim the motor. The main ground wire is clean and tight. I am stumped. Thanks for any help.

First of all, you should run your trim tabs and power assist through a fused switch and not have it connected to the ignition of the motor. Nothing like that should be tapped into the Engine ignition circuit.

You need to first see if you have 12v at the engine. One way to test is to check the trim from the switch on the engine? If , eitt does not, then there may be an open in your ground wire to the engine or the positive leads (there is a big one and a smaller one) to the engine.

It could be as simple as a bad or dead battery.

Mike

Thanks Mike. I will look again tomorrow. The trim switch on the engine and throttle doesn't work just a clicking noise coming the relay box on the front of the motor. I checked and I have 12v across the starter. I think the connections from the tabs and power assist are remote turn on leads not actual power leads. Those are fused separately. Should those remote turn on wires be routed somewhere else too? Batteries are new and test fine. Should I disconnect the positive and negative from engine and try connecting directly to a jumpstart battery to test it? Thanks again!!!

hondadude said:

First of all, you should run your trim tabs and power assist through a fused switch and not have it connected to the ignition of the motor. Nothing like that should be tapped into the Engine ignition circuit.

You need to first see if you have 12v at the engine. One way to test is to check the trim from the switch on the engine? If , eitt does not, then there may be an open in your ground wire to the engine or the positive leads (there is a big one and a smaller one) to the engine.

It could be as simple as a bad or dead battery.

Mike

Click to expand...

wow had this same exact problem last few weeks deceided it must have been caused by me adding wire to circuit w key switch(by the way wire added was switch to bring my trim tabs up when key switch off connected it to fuel guage connection started blowing nmuber 3 fuse many time finally I just disconnected wire SUZAM no more fuse blowing issue.... now I just need to find dedicated line for trim tabs...sound like your problem to much voltage on that circuit good luck was off course out of town hen this happened so almost cost me alot effort , money and vacation time luckly calmed down and figured it out myself

Thanks for the info. Where are you going to put that remote turn on lead for your tabs? Needs to go on the key switch somewhere>>> Also, my problem has been with bad and dirty connections at my battery switch. I am pulling off all my power connections and sanding them down till I see copper again. They were all black and gunky and a little green. Didn't suspect at first because I didn't see the usual green piles of corrosion you normally may see on a car battery.

not sure yet was hoping others could help? need it to be tied to ignitions switch can someone on here see where theirs is connectted too it a wire to trim tabs retractor so trim tabs come up when key is shut off

I have to say it first....it is not recommended that anything be tapped into the Honda wiring harness.

That being said, check the website of the manufacturer of your trim tabs. Both Bennett and Lenco have great diagrams and instructions on line.

Some of the newer Bennett's connect to the tach lead. It senses when the motor is stopped, not when the key is off. Other diagrams show a separate switch, as I suggested in an earlier post.

If you really want it to be driven be the key switch, wiring a small slave relay to the key switch and wiring the trim tabs through the relay will isolate the engine from the trim tabs. Of course, it adds a extra level of stuff that can go wrong.

Just some thoughts....

Mike