Electronic ignition conversion 4.3L

A friends 4.3L ignition has had points replaced with electronic module. Same coil and wiring. Does he need to keep the purple resistance wire to coil in place or can he achieve some extra performance by bypassing purple resistance wire to coil primary, (without burning out coil of course)? If the resistance must stay what aftermarket coil would be a good substitute to enable getting rid of the resistance wire/ballast.

If he were to replace the 10 yr old ignition module for the latest and greatest, what system would that be for best reliability and performance?

BTW fuel system is original Rochester 2bbl 380 cfm carb.

Thanks!

you say he had points, but has a 10 year old ignition module? not following. There's no ignition module on the boat when it had points. If you mean ESA module, then you want CDI brand- I believe the part number is 123-9898P for a conversion system like that.

If you kept the original coil, keep the original resistance wire. There's nothing to be gained by deleting it. However - the electronic system added to replace points usually requires a 12V switched power supply. but no need to bypass the resistance wire - it can be from the key direct before the resistance wire.
If the resistance wire is faulty or damaged, you can get a coil that is marked "internal resistor" and it is to be fed full 12V. TSC or any farm supply place usually has one on the shelf that will fit right into the OMC coil bracket for around $40.