74' Evinrude 9.9hp, only runs on full choke...no choke dies....new to this.... CARB KIT?

Ok so this is first outboard experience, going on about 5 days. Told "it has sat for 2 years, ran fine when parked, but my buddy will fix any issues." ya right Im thinking. this is my roommates money pit, not mine. I watched for a full week all these repairs being done(about 7-8hrs worth), not wanting to get involved. Couldnt take it anymore, I took the cover off and saw a grimy, blue engine compartment that hasnt seen the light of day in YEARS. What "fixing" was this buddy doing? Ill tell you. Maybe 6 hose clamps and a primer bulb that sucked more air than a marathon runner. It runs only on full choke, no choke it dies. Ordered a carbkit today, no air leaks to carb, removed carb, removed float, and the bowl had quite abit of a gray graphite like paste in it. Am I on the right track? poor old motor, it sounded alright running on full choke, but then again Ive never seen it run before. Not my money pit, but I cant stand back and seen my roommate be burned like this. ANY and ALL help is much apppreciated. this crash course in 2 stroke outboards has been a learning experience to say the least. And whats that Lean/Enrich knob for? starting or do you have to fiddle with this during normal operating condtions. ya ya a manuel would help, but not my money pit. Also the starter rope rubs hard against part #-319558 — BRACKET, STARTER INTERLOCK. Is this normal? It has worn a GROVE in that bracket, this cant be right, but anything is possible these days.....thanks and I shall be visting this Forum on a regular basis against my will.

1. If the carb kit doesn't make it much better, the next purchase is tools not parts.
Compression tester and spark tester. For $25 you may stop the bleeding, or decide to go on.
If you already have those, post the results.
2. Manuals are priceless.
I have a 74' 9.9 and the manual, so ask away.

The starter is likely not mounted properly.--There is a " tab " on the bottom that must locate in a hole.-Missing that is a common mistake.

yeah just cleaning the carb did the trick, thanks for the help though....

owner of 1 un-used carb kit....

Your problem sounds like a dirty carb. Clean it thoroughly with carb cleaner and blow out with compressed air, many times. Make sure all the plastic bits are out before you use the carb cleaner since it eats away at plastic parts. Your model has a little slow speed needle valve bearing inside it that is a little difficult to get out. It looks like a very small plastic funnel. I used a #8 deck screw and turned it into the bearing ever so slightly to get a bite on it and pull it out. I do this with extreme care so as not to screw that steel screw into the aluminum carb and ruin it for ever. I am sure there are other ways to get it out as well.

Also, if your carb has not been cleaned in a while, there is a little metal clip that now goes on the float arm and inlet valve so as to ensure that the valve pulls open when the carb uses up fuel. Those needles would stick, cutting off the gas, and this clip fixes it. Make sure it goes on.

As for the rich/lean adjust. It will need to be set after you clean the carb. What you do is insert the new retainer at the end of the slow speed jet. Turn in the slow speed needle clockwise into the retainer and keep screwing it in until it just lightly seats. Now turn it counter-clockwise 1.25 turns. This is the position for initial start. Start the motor up and let it warm up. It may run a little rough. When warm, bring the motor to the slowest idle possible and start turning that adjust clockwise 1/8th of a turn. Give the motor 10 seconds to respond and slow down the idle again if it increased. Turn it another 1/8th of a turn and so on. Eventually the motor will cough and want to die. Turn the needle 1/4 turn counter-clockwise and that is your perfect setting. Position the knob so that it points down in the middle of the range and don't touch it again.

You will also want to ensure your link and sync is set. When you turn the throttle grip you will notice the plate under the flywheel turns and hits a roller on the carb to start the flow of gas. That plate is the timing advance plate and it needs to be sync'd with the carb. On the plate (throttle cam) you will see an arrow. When the carb's roller just touches the throttle cam that arrow should be in the middle of the roller. If it is not then the throttle cam can be adjusted by loosening the two nuts just under the flywheel on the starboard side. You may need a thinner 5/16" wrench to get at them with the flywheel still on.

Good luck. Those motors are tried and true and thousands are still running strong. I don't think they are a money pit. Price a brand new one and compare to the price of the carb kit and maybe a new water pump impeller (he should replace those every 5 years and now if he doesn't know when it was last replace), and I think you will see where the biggest pits are made.