OMC string upper toast?

So... New member with a new-to-me boat.

I searched through this forum and found a lot of very knowledgeable folks who know these inside and out!

I took her out for about the fith time recently, when the drive started making an aweful scream/whine. Then dead stop/cut out and acted locked up.
Reading here pointed me to checking the upper, and...

Yep. Close to no oil and what was there was full of metal. Never saw a drop of leakage, but I also wasn't checking it everytime. I didn't think I had possibly used it enough to go from an OK oil level to catastrophic failure.

Anyway...The boat is a 1984 Rinker with an OMC 3.8 4 barrel stringer 800. Model 384STMRCTR

Repairable/rebuildable for an average mechanic? If I track down a used one how could I check it? What should I look for?
Tips for pulling it? I hope to do it this weekend.

I have what I belive is a scan of the factory manual.

Me: OK mechanic with access to better ones, tight budget, and just trying to get it back up to take my girlfriends son fishing some more. He just turned 9 and is really getting in to it. We got a couple 4-5 pound small mouths the other day, and he's dieing to go back for more!

A good used fresh water upper maybe the whole drive a 4.3 will do also. You need one with the anoid.

Pay attention to what you buy you need a fully mechanical upper.

rebuilding requires a few special OMC tools if following the manual. However, a mechanic who has rebuilt a few car/truck rear differentials will generally know how to use machinist's blue and set tooth contact with that and rolling torque.

If looking for used, you need 21:20 gearing for the 3.8. That ratio upper was used with the 3.8 from 1981 to 1985.
If you found a 21:19, you might be able to use that and swap propellers to a lower pitch, but that's a bit of a gamble.

I might still have a 21:20 gearset here - can't recall if I sold it.

Thanks for the input guys.

I've scoured Craigslist and watch listed some units on ebay, but haven't pulled the trigger on anything yet.

I didn't get to work on it this weekend. Had a wedding that tied me up. Next weekend will be a non-boating weekend as well. I have a trip scheduled.

BUT...this might work out well, because one of the mechanics I know has offered to take a stab at rebuilding it. He's young and hasn't done much like it, but his dad is an old time drag racer who has done many axles. I feel pretty OK with the combo working on it. If I pull it in the next day or two, he would likely have it done by the end of the weekend (assuming parts availibility).

So...back to me pulling it... As this will be my first time, any particlular trouble spots to watch for or tips?

Or just dig in, suport the weight, ect?

...and I this seems like a dumb question, but I mentioned I have a scan of a manual. I ASSUME it's the factory one, but I don't see any identifying marks. It's 572 pages starting with Safety 1-1 and ending with Apendix A-97. Anybody have a guess on what I've got my hands on?

those NOS gears are still here, pm me if interested. That sounds like the Seloc manual. Factory one would say omc all over it.

It's possible that the unit was filled incorrectly causing pockets of air bubbles in the drive. When this happens it will slowly level itself out, and the upper housing will run out of oil. My drive did the same thing. When filling, the drive should take just about two whole quarts of oil at fill up, and then a little extra after being run a bit.

Let me add to the picture... After you have a good reading on the dipstick, tightly install the dipstick before removing the filler at port B. Quickly remove filler and install plug. Check upper dipstick again regularly for the next week or first few runs (at the least), and fill in port A to proper level.