Bravo 3 high shift effort

I have a 2003 Cobalt 226 with a 5.7L Mag. This year the shift effort is very high both forward and reverse. The shifting is inconsistent...sometime smooth, sometimes excessive travel is required for forward, then the engine speeds up before the shift. I finally realized that if I adjusted the upper cable, I will equalize the forward and reverse shift travel so the throttle will open only after the shift is completed. That worked great, but I am left with high shift effort. So, I disconnected the lower shift cable and the upper control cable effort is low. This would indicate high friction in the lower cable. However, I read on an old post on the iboats forum that someone had replaced a lower cable, and later found the upper cable was the real problem....the high friction did not occur in the upper cable unless it was loaded by the shift effort. What are folks experience with upper vs. lower shift cable friction? BTW, boat only has 125 hours on it....obviously a Great Lakes boat where boating season is really short.

Ayuh,.... The Odds say it's the lower cable, as it's more exposed to the nasties, than the controller cables,...

Took the boat to an authorized Mercruiser repair facility. They suspected an issue with the shift detent, so they pulled the drive cover. They described the detent as corroded and sticky, but not from water intrusion. They cleaned it and greased it. I was all set for a new cable and complete kit (11 seasons, 132 hours) but they said everything looked good and didn't recommend a re-seal. (They knew I kept the boat on a hoist). So I'm hoping this will solve the shift issue for at least a few years.

BTW, learned about the risks of old trailer tires. Decided to bring the boat to Detroit area for repair from my place in northern Michigan. Even tho my trailer spent its entire life in a garage, I had a tire blow after 200 miles. Damaged my trailer fender to the point of needing insurance claim. 2003 boat, but some of the tire date codes back to 2001.

I know this is an old post, but the dealer was right, the detent was corroded and sticky. Shifts have been excellent for the last two seasons. Some of you experts are too quick to recommend a cable replace.

Most "experts" here work with alpha outdrives not Bravo.
So they may have tried to help with a bit of normal feedback for the alpha.

The bravo is notorious for upper gear case linkage issues........the detent and associated linkage does get messed up due to many reasons......

for your future issues maybe don't ask here..........we don't care.............and we only help and never claim to be experts.....


fixing a boat from a keyboard is not the same as first hand/hands on.............too many unknowns.......

What I can say is, most who try to help others from this web site have fixed more boats then you have tiny little hairs all tied in a knot on your a$$!

Ghost - disregard LB.

However, this did make me look in the Mercruiser shop manual and I cannot find ANY reference for this repair. I have a sticky shifter and would like to inspect and re-lube this area as maintenance. I have Mercruiser Service Manual #28. Where is this gem of info hidden ?

Thx - BTW - I am up for a previous discussed project - replacing the gimbal ring ( I think it would be just as smart to r/r the entire transom bracket as I need many of those parts anyway … )

look here for a parts break down

items 10, 11 16 and 17 are the main shift components

10 (2 pieces) and 11 are the part he was referring to I believe

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/m...u-0m100000/universal-joint-shifter-components

If you remove the shifter cable and work the shifter, is it still stiff?

Jeff

KG - OK I see it now. THX. I'll check to see if there are descriptive directions in the Shop Manual to inspect and lube this if after I do as 'Fast' recommends.
Fast - I haven't removed the shifter cables, but I will be doing so soon as I'm pulling the motor to R/R the gimbal ring. I'll check then. I have 1 more month of being in the water, for the striper run and then I'll be doing a lot of this work.

Just doing the research before I start to get into it all...

The shift cable can be checked when you remove the outdrive. put the shift control in NEUTRAL and remove drive....now shift the control handle and see how much resistance is felt. If still high resistance disconnect control cable from shift bracket at motor and shift the control again. if the resistance is the same then the control cable is bad or the control itself. If the resistance is better then the short cable is the issue.

if the resistance is much better with the outdrive removed then the shift linkage in the drive is the problem..........easy!

Yes - that is easy. And, easy is good. Thx