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Anyone have the new Honda NMEA digital gauges?

grey2112

Contributing Member
I got the brand new, not even showing up on their website Honda NMEA2000 gauges. Was supposed to get the standard digital gauges that they have had around for years, but apparently you can't get those anymore and now these are the brand new ones that just got produced.
These are a combination of analog and digital (meaning the tach and speedometer
each have a needle as well as a digital screen), and apparently have to be
hooked into a NMEA2000 network to work, as well as to work with the fuel tank
sender unit I have (Suzuki Electronic Fluid Level Sensor).

So until I get my Simrad NSS7 unit hooked up and connected to the network, I am not getting
accurate readings as far as RPMs, fuel level, etc.
 
And your question is? Doesn't seem like Honda would stop selling the standard digital gauges since only the latest engines (2012 & 2013, I think) have an NMEA 2000 interface. And, to the best of my knowledge there is no retrofit for older engines. I sure wish there was.
 
Oh, just wondering if anyone else had them yet and how they liked them. I didn't realize that only the latest engines had the NMEA interface.
And your question is? Doesn't seem like Honda would stop selling the standard digital gauges since only the latest engines (2012 & 2013, I think) have an NMEA 2000 interface. And, to the best of my knowledge there is no retrofit for older engines. I sure wish there was.
 
I have not had the opportunity to put these in yet. Did a dealer install with a new motor or did you install? Were there instructions for setup with the gauges? I have not seen any yet. We are due to get updates on most of our technical info. I would think there is some set up required, possibly using Dr. H to calibrate...maybe just on the gauge like some of the Mercury smartcraft.

The literature does say that you need a network backbone and a cable to the motor. Until I see more info, I can only guess. Here is the latest Accessory book page for the gauges and compatible motors.

View attachment newdigitalgauges.pdf

Mike
 
A dealer installed them with a new Honda 250HP motor. They had to download (or had sent to them) the manual with the instructions. Supposedly (according to the dealer's mechanic) once I hook up my Simrad NSS-7 multi-function device on the NMEA2000 network everything is supposed to calibrate and install properly.
I have not had the opportunity to put these in yet. Did a dealer install with a new motor or did you install? Were there instructions for setup with the gauges? I have not seen any yet. We are due to get updates on most of our technical info. I would think there is some set up required, possibly using Dr. H to calibrate...maybe just on the gauge like some of the Mercury smartcraft.

The literature does say that you need a network backbone and a cable to the motor. Until I see more info, I can only guess. Here is the latest Accessory book page for the gauges and compatible motors.

View attachment 7174

Mike
 
That is interesting. So you do have a network backbone installed already?

I wonder what one is supposed to do if all you wanted was the gauges and no Simrad type device?

Looks like I have some research to do.



Mike
 
Nope, didn't have the network backbone installed already. I had just gotten the boat and was going to install two NSS-7 units, a GPS antenna, VHF radio, Sonic Hub, and also the WiFi module they have. So I guess when all of that is installed and hooked up to the gauges it should all work out.
 
I am also interested in how all this works with the Honda engine. It is my understanding that once you have the NMEA 2000 backbone installed, you are nearly unlimited on what you can hook up to it, and most of those devices should sync right up because they each have unique "identifiers" to identify the device and required I/O protocols. Unfortunately, the actual interpretation of the "values" that is put out by any device is proprietary - STUPID! However, given all the info coming off the Honda engine, and the fact that some is likely unique to the engine configuration, I suspect it needs to be programmed. Honda is the late-comer in this arena. About every other marine engine manufacturer has had an NMEA 2000 interface since the early 2000's.
 
OK, update. Me and my trusted and experienced boat guy tried every permutation to get things working. He couldn't believe at first that you had to have a MFD hooked up to the backbone just to get the gauges to work right - sort of like saying "Hey, we'll sell you these gauges to work with out engine, but you also have to have a MFD as well or else the gauges won't work". But I dunno, maybe Honda figures EVERYONE has a MFD on a NMEA2000 network or else will get the other gauges. Anyways, it appears that the Spedometer gauge is working correctly as it is receiving voltage information as well as fuel burn into correctly. The engine is outputting data via the cable to the Simrad MFD correctly as well, showing voltage, tachometer data, engine temp, oil pressure, etc. HOWEVER the Honda Tachometer gauge isn't working correctly - its data is all over the place, the needle for RPMs jumps from 1100 to 6600 and back again every 10 or so seconds, even though the real RPMs is only about 650 according to the Simrad (as well as our ears since it is at idle the whole time we're doing this), the warning icons pop up occasionally telling us our oil pressure is low, our engine temp is high, our alternator isn't charging, etc. And the trim gauge is showing everything from a 0% to a 100% trim on the motor. We tried using both wiring harness plugs, swapped out the T connectors, changed the terminators - nothing seemed to change what the tachometer was doing. Could it be a faulty gauge, or do you think there's still something wrong in the setup, like it needs some sort of special programming either for the gauge itself or in the setup of the Simrad?
 
Oh, and I was wrong about the fuel sensor. My Cobia originally had a fuel sender (don't know the brand) hooked up to the Yamaha gauges. I did a repower with a new Honda BF250 and Honda gauges (the NMEA 2000 gauges, brand new ones -). When they installed the engine they also installed a Lowrance EP-65 fuel sender. It is hooked into the NMEA network and is showing up on my NSS7 unit.

So, if I am reading things correctly, I have to fill the fuel tank up all the way (138 gallons - ouch), set the NSS up to let it know that it is a 138 gallon tank, say it is full, then run about 5 gallons through it, and then fill it back up again. Then I tell the system exactly how much fuel it took to refill it, and supposedly it takes the burn rate data and correlates it with the amount of fuel I actually used, and from that point on it knows approximately how much fuel is in the tank at all times based on burn rate?

Or does it know the fuel level based on some sort of Ohm signal/resistance?

Also, am I correct in assuming that this information is also "told" to the Honda digital gauges so that it also shows the fuel level in the tank?
 
Woo hoo! Problem supposedly solved. What the Honda rep figured out is that I have to do a reconfigure on the tach gauge. To do this I held both arrow buttons down at the same time for 5 seconds, then released them. This recalibrated everything and now the tach is working properly. Time will tell, but hopefully all is correct now. And no, you don't have to have a MFD hooked up, just a regular working NMEA2000 backbone system.
 
FYI - Just about all the marine electronics manufacturers now have an NMEA 2000 interface, even though their networks are proprietary. For example, Garmin uses a proprietary network to interconnect its devices, but the larger Garmin MFD's have an NMEA 2000 port for connecting to the backbone, and the software needed to interpret SOME of the more standard NMEA values is embedded. Almost all Garmin MFD's also have a NMEA 0183 interface so that the GPS can talk to your VHF to operationalize the DSC function on the VHF.
 
So, if I am reading things correctly, I have to fill the fuel tank up all the way (138 gallons - ouch), set the NSS up to let it know that it is a 138 gallon tank, say it is full, then run about 5 gallons through it, and then fill it back up again. Then I tell the system exactly how much fuel it took to refill it, and supposedly it takes the burn rate data and correlates it with the amount of fuel I actually used, and from that point on it knows approximately how much fuel is in the tank at all times based on burn rate?

Or does it know the fuel level based on some sort of Ohm signal/resistance?

Also, am I correct in assuming that this information is also "told" to the Honda digital gauges so that it also shows the fuel level in the tank?
Fuel tanks come in different shapes and sizes... and in order to configure the Lowrance EP-65 you have to calibrate it. The easiest way to do this is run the tank dry. Then choose either a 3 point or 5 point calibration of the Lowrance EP65. If its three point then you would in effect set the Empty, Half and Full as you fill the tank. if its a five point then its Empty, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, Full. This then "tells" the EP65 how to interact with the analogue fuel sender in your tank to give an accurate reading in the tank. So yes the Ohm Signal from you standard sender is converted by the Lowrance EP-65 into digital data that sends the fuel level to the gauge, or the chartplotter etc.
 
Having rigged a couple of boats with NMEA2000 I can share one important tip......Make sure the Network BUS with all the T Pieces and Connectors is well supported and mounted using screws through EACH of the "T's" If this is left loose or is allowed to flex the connectors can fail. - ALSO why cant I hit return and move down a line when posting on here? its very annoying !
 
Last edited:
Chris - I had the same problem for awhile. If you click on the a/A (switch editor to source mode) on the first box in the banner above, your return button should work. I have no idea what that means or why it works.

Cheers!
 
I have a 2013 225 honda, the new tack only worked 15 hours,was replaced by dealer ,two trips latter failed again. Does the tack need a separate power source ? Has any one found installation instructions on line?:confused: Thank's
 
The way I understand NMEA2000, is that each device itself has its own configuration.
Clear as mud......


Well I just hooked up my 2013 225hp to a lowrance sounder/gps combo.
The EP65 is a standalone instrument.
The Engine controller (well the controller for the NMEA2000 output of the Honda) is another standalone instrument
The GPS is a standalone instrument as well.
They all output their own "sentences" & take input in the same way.
The MFD (as far as the NMEA2000 is concerned) is simply another standalone instrument. The MFD (or whatever else you display it on) accepts this data & displays it.
BUT you can use a dedicated screen like the Lowrance LMF-200 ( garmin & others make the same sort of thing) (in Australia, the Honda dealers use the Garmin one and just call it the "Honda digital gauge")
The "sentences" are just lines of text in a known format (the format the manufacturer chose and registered with the NMEA organization and follows the NMEA2000 protocol)
Each instrument has some sort of calibration and setup built in. In most cases you need something like an MFD to access them.

Now the output from the engine gives you liters per hour. It does not give you distance covered etc.
I am not sure if other MFD can take the data from various instruments and combine them but my Lowrance certainly doesn't.
The EP65 gives me a digital fuel gauge. It can be calibrated to any shape tank.

In order for me to have fuel range, I need the EP-85R storage device. It keeps track of how much fuel the engine is using and stores it along with the distance traveled (from the GPS module) and will then send its information to be displayed. The EP-85R also takes information from the EP-65 about what fuel has been added.
You don't actually need the EP-65 but if you don't have it you have to add the fuel quantity manually every time you add fuel.
(there is no real reason why an MFD couldn't combine the data from the GPS, engine and tank level sensor, but in my case it just doesn't)

As far as "needing a backbone" its just the way it connects. All the NMEA2000 instruments, sensors, displays etc are connected to the backbone. The backbone is simply a wire (well several in the one bundle) with as many "T" pieces as needed to connect the instruments together. The backbone has a terminator at both ends. My original setup simply had 3 "T" pieces connected together with terminators at each end. (it didn't have any wire between them. One of the instruments (& only 1 needs) to supply power to the backbone but if none of them do you can buy a special "T" piece with leads you connect to the power. In my case the Lowrance supplies the power. If its turned off the whole NMEA network is not powered.

OK it would be easy to just connect the NMEA200 to a PC right. Well in theory you just get something like an Actisense NGT-1 (its just a NMEA2000 to USB connector), but you need software and that's about $1000 or so.
The reason the software its so expensive is it contains information from the NMEA organization that the software manufacturer brought from the NMEA organization. This information is the "sentences" and what they mean for all the devices on the NMEA2000 network.

Back to hooking up the various bits.

When you turn on and power up the NMEA2000 network all the instruments on it send their configuration information onto the network. They then proceed to send their information. If there is nothing to display it then its still being sent but nothing happens.

If there is a MFD or some such then the MFD receives the configuration information, sends what it needs to each instrument and displays the information from each instrument. There is usually some sort of standard configuration screen for configuring the instruments. This configuration screen also usually has a "advanced" button where device specific information can be configured. This advanced information is provided from the device itself. That way the MFD doesn't have to be reprogrammed every time a new device is designed and built. The MFD doesn't have to do any calculations it just displays what it gets.

If you think about the implications of this then you can see why you need the EP-85R storage device.

I know this reply is a bit long winded but it might help people understand whats going on and how its likely to be able to fix problems like configuration of tanks, tachometers etc.

With a MFD it may be straight forward how to calibrate a device (there will be instructions!) but on the smaller dedicated displays with far fewer controls it may not be as easy to calibrate things.
 
I ended up having to put the entire NMEA 2000 network on a switch on my console. Also had to have a diode (one-way) hooked inline between the Honda digital gauges and the engine. This means that the gauges stay on even when the engine is off (and I have the switch turned on) so that I can keep my NMEA 2000 system powered up and keep my Simrad Sonic Hub (for music) and my GPS antenna powered on and working. Honda didn't really think this one through all the way, but luckily I was able to figure it out and work around it.
 
I have the same problem on a 225 honda, but when I hold down both buttons it shuts off an goes to 0, I do it again an its back to jumping around. Read out seams to work, no rpm display, do you remember what the top display was sit on ? Got to be something I am missing. Any help would be appreciated.
 
I have the same problem on a 225 honda, but when I hold down both buttons it shuts off an goes to 0, I do it again an its back to jumping around. Read out seams to work, no rpm display, do you remember what the top display was sit on ? Got to be something I am missing. Any help would be appreciated.
 
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