Video - 1986 DT200 - How does it sound to you?

Howdy,

I have a 1986 DT200 that I've been tinkering with for about the last 2 months or so. The boat and motor sat neglected for many years before I picked it up and starting trying to bring it back to life. I did all the usual stuff I could think of (and I'm a total novice, so I'm not sure that's saying much)

1. Drained the gas tank and put new fuel in
2. Replaced the water separator
3. Pulled the carbs and cleaned them very thoroughly (twice) and was aggressive with the compressed air when cleaning them out.
4. New plugs
5. Fresh oil
6. Lower unit oil change

Engine ran really strong the last time I was out. Cranked right up, idled nicel,y pushed the boat around 42 MPH at 4100 RPM. Then somewhere along the line, I lost my fuel fill cap, and of course we had torrential rain for a day so I'm sure I got water in the tank. The next trip was a no go for that reason. So I siphoned off the gas, cleaned it all up, flushed out the carbs and cranked it up.

Here is a video of the motor running. How does it sound to you? At about 1:30ish in the video I climb into the boat and look into the carb throat. You can see gas is pulsating through the top set of carbs, through what i assume is the high speed jet? Anyway, it's only pulsating through the top set of carbs, and you can see it pool on the flat part of the carb throat and eventually even runs down a little on the front plate.

Is that normal? Doesn't seem normal to me .. but what the heck do I know?

Thanks!
Chris

well first of all the engine is running far too slow even for idle.
as soon as that gets in water it will die out at that speed.
i would not use the muffs and use a water butt instead to work on the engine,youl get correct exhaust back pressure
and be able to set up the idle and carbs better.
i would say the top carb is the correct one and the two bottom ones need a bit more juice.

once the carb cover is back on the venturi will take in the fuel better due to suction etc.
lots of engine have this when cover is off.
but i would definitely speed it up a fair bit more.
What revs does it show on tacho ? it should be around 900 when in nutral ion muffs, around 800-850 when in a tub full of water
in nutrual and around 750 when in gear idling.

i would say that is idling around 550-600 if your lucky.

But no major knocks from the engine and thats a good sign so far.
you wont be able to get it dead right untill you go a for a proper test on water,but do raise that idle speed or
it wont run when put into gear with water upto its plate.

looks in nice condition as well.

phill

Motor sounds terrible !--Not running on all 6 cylinders.

i would agree its not on all 6.
but i think it needs to come up a couple of hundred revs to get rid of that duck quaking noise where its trying to die off.

water muffs do no good when trying to listen to an engine running.

Thanks so much for the very helpful replies, I really appreciate it. I almost gave up on this thread! Thanks for bringing it back to life.

I didn't realize that having the carb cover off could make that much difference, I've been working with (and running it) with it off, so I'll correct that.

Also, I agree the idle is way to low, but I didn't know how to adjust it. There is an idle adjustment knob on the engine which I believe has more to do with timing or electronics. But turning it seems to have no effect on the idle. I've read since then that there is an idle adjustment screw somewhere that I'll look for next time I'm working on the motor. I'm guessing now that the idle adjustment knob works in conjunction with the screw adjustment to adjust the idle.

I think since I've posted this video I've probably had one or two more successful trips out on the lake and been towed at least once. The last time I was out, I had to get towed (this was about 3 weeks ago). It cranked right up at the boat ramp, idled very good off the trailer and over to the courtesy dock. We idled fine out of the no wake zone and throttled up to plane easily. Sounded smooth and strong. Got to the cove and the engine idled and died. I had difficulty starting it, and ultimately I think the idle jets got clogged. I could only get the engine to start if I throttled up a little (in neutral of course). Every time I brought the throttle back to neutral (so I could engage the prop) it would die. Eventually I had to call TowBoatUS. The trip just three days prior I didn't have any problems at all.

Other than pulling the plugs to see how they look, what is the proper procedure for testing to see if the motor is firing on all cylinders? Because I've been able to get the engine to sporadically perform really well (pushing the somewhat heavy hull at around 42 MPH at 4100 rpm), I really feel like there's probably nothing seriously wrong, but tuning these fine details or getting the carb adjusted just right seems to be eluding me for now.

I've torn down, cleaned and reassembled the carbs at least three times. Usually after that the motor runs really strong once, maybe twice, and then it craps out on me and I have to do it again. I also battled a water in the fuel tank problem for a while, but I think I have a handle on that now. I've siphoned off lots of fuel lately and not gotten any water in my mason jar.

For your entertainment, here are some photos of the dirty carbs and water I siphoned off the tank.

I really appreciate ya'll taking some time to watch my video and try and offer some advice. Thanks.

Chris

wo w those carbs are disgusting.
now you seriously need to get carb rebuild kits for each carb and soak them in carb cleaner for atleast 24hours.
take off everything possible and also any welch plugs if it has them.
i would also buy new fuel ines for them and run that engine on a different tank with a inline fuel filter.

these carbs are realy bad, and you might just have tons of trouble with them if you dont do the job correctly once and for all.
if any of that crud or water gets intothe piston area that engine could be scrap in seconds.
it would cost so much to rebuild it just wouldnt be worth it.

dont buy just a spray carb cleaner,you need proper fluid to let it all soak in, then strain it then do it again and then do it again with fresh cleaner.
blow everything out with an airline first, then blow again when you think its clean.

whats with the red fuel hose stuff ? did you put that on, as it dont look like fuel tube capable of todays rubbish we get sold as petrol.
it needs to be alcohol resistant stuff to work realy good.
but definitely use another tank untill you can get your one cut open and completely cleaned out 100%.

your lucky that engine runs at all looking at those carbs ha ha

with it all runng good you might see 46 to 48mph, but 100% dont use that tank and fuel line till youve got into it and cleaned it right out.

also dont expect it to be any good if the fuel is over 2 months old, at 6 weeks it starts to break down and will just not perform.
if and when you have it on fresh juice and are going to leave it for a while put in a stabiliser to stop it going off.
better still keep to fresh fuel.

that amount of water in the fuel means fuel is dead now.
i wouldnt use that in any outboard engine at all seeing this much water in it.

phill

Thanks!

i don't know what's with those red fuel lines. I didn't put them on, they were on the motor when I got it. My dad's had the motor for the past 7 years (he mostly neglected it), but it's possible someone he had work on the motor put them on. Do you have any recommendations on where to purchase quality new fuel lines?

The carbs were obviously just over the top. I've read soooo much on line about what carb soak to use and there's so much debate on it and everyone complaining they want the "old formula" back that i ended up not getting a soak, and instead used several cans of the spray cleaner and brushes and toothpicks and toothbrushes to scrub everything as clean as I could. Then I used my compressor and blew them all several times. Is the Berryman stuff at Wally world or the auto parts store adequate? Although, Phill, I'm guessing your on the other side of the pond so maybe you're not familiar with what's in our stores.

The gas tank .. So .. when I first got the boat, first thing I did was drain the tank. Although I only drained it by siphoning the old gas out. I'm sure there was some liquid left in the tank since the pickup tube probably doesn't go all the way to the bottom. But I drained the tank and let it air out for about 5 weeks. Then I put a small amount of fuel in, siphoned it again, and let it air out again. I did this several times until there was no water and no debris in the fuel when I siphon it off. Now, before I'll drop the motor in the lake, I always siphon about 3 mason jars of fuel off to make sure it's clean and there's no water or debris in it. I also have a water separator, so hopefully that filters some junk out, and of course there's an in-line fuel filter under the cowling too.

I guess I'll take the carbs off one more time and give them a real cleaning once I figure out the right cleaner to use. Oh .. you mentioned a welch plug. I don't know what that is, so I'm not sure if I have one. I'm very familiar with the carbs from having disassembled and reassembling them so many times, but I don't know what the parts are called

Seriously. Thanks.

Chris

Those carburetors need to be cleaned,------Look on------- u tube------ for examples of cleaning carburetors and what they should look like !

Yeah .. I've pulled the carbs and cleaned them with a toothbrush, spray carb cleaner and compressed air at least three times. The helpful suggestions above are that I should pull them again, get rebuild kits and soak the carbs once or twice to be certain they're really spotless. Here is the rebuild kit I assume I should order:

Brownspoint.com carb kit

Also would love a couple suggestions on what to soak the carbs with. Obviously there's the Berryman's that I can get at WalMart or any auto parts store. I've also heard of folks boiling their carbs or soaking in something you get in the paint section (some kind of paint thinner type stuff that is supposedly basically the same main ingredient as the Berrymans).

Anyway, thanks for the great advice...

Chris

sorry mate but living in england i have no idea what make or types of cleaner is available anywhere other than here.
i would ask at a local marine store to you what they have to offer, tell them if it dont work youl be back when they are closed for a refund ha ha (only joking in that bit),
But if you ask im surethey will advise you on what types of cleaner they have to offer, you need a liquid rather than a spray type thats for sure,those carbs need a nice long soaking in some good stuff.

phill

Thanks Phill,

I ordered some rebuild kits from Brownspoint .. they arrived today. I talked with a local mechanic who has an ultrasonic bath for the carbs. I'm going to have him soak and clean the carbs, install the rebuild kits and adjust the carbs. Hopefully that will be the end of it! I will keep you posted.

In the meantime, can you advise me on where I might learn about how to adjust the idle on this engine?

Thanks!
Chris

youl probably find that idle is apart of the timing and throttle arm etc.
most outboards seem to have the spark advance set up correctly thern the idle takes care of itself to a point.

you realy could do with a manual for the engine to get it bang on.

but im sure there is planty of advice on this and other forums about setting the idle.

ive never had one of these ultrasonic cleaners done and not even seen one, but from what ive heard they realy
are good.
anything has got to be worth a try.


phill

Hey Phill,

Thanks for the advice. I'll see if I can get my hands on a good manual. There is a dial on the side of the motor, clearly part of the electrical system. It's a dial that says idle adjustment, and my guess is that it adjusts the ignition timing to sync up with a manual idle adjustment? I'll see if I can get my hands on that manual.

Also, I'm taking the boat and the new rebuild kits to the mechanic tomorrow, and I'll ask them to show me how to adjust the idle.

Seriously .. thanks Phill (and friends) for the help, I really appreciate it. I'll keep you posted and let you know how it all turns out.

Chris

Hi Phil (and friends),

So today, I got the carbs put back on. I had them run through the ultrasonic hot-bath cleaner a couple times, and then I installed rebuild kits, reassembled everything and got the re-installed on the motor. Motor cranked right up and sounded good. I dropped it in the lake, but didn't leave the trailer. It engaged easily and turned the prop as much as can be expected on the trailer. My idle though is way too low. I need to figure out how to raise the idle by about 200 RPM or so. If anyone knows how to adjust the RPM on a 1986 Suzuki DT200, I'll appreciate it.

I do have a very poor quality electronic copy of the service manual, but I haven't been able to decipher it. If anyone can advise, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks all!

Chris

First off have you got a tacho (rev counter ) either for the engine or a hand held etc, as youl need to get it pretty much spot on to be honest. im pretty sure you have to adjust the idle by the timing as on 99% of 2 stroke outboards. here is the timing for your engine 22 BTDC @5000 and I think the idkle timing is 5 deg after top dead centre (99% sure on this). the idle is only meant to be 600 to 700 rpm, the plugs are NGK B8HS-10 or Champion L4J or RL4J orL88 or RL88 and all gapped at .035 -.039 (.9-1.0). idle air screw 1.25 to 1.75 turns out lightly seated.. phill

Wow Phillnjack. I really appreciate such a thorough answer. I don't have a tacho, and it sounds like I might be best to leave that to someone who knows what they're doing. There is more in your post that I don't understand than I do I'll read up on it and see if it seems like something I can figure out.

Although maybe my idle isn't that far off. I would guess the idle is somewhere pretty close to what you suggested .. 600 or 700 RPM. It just seems like it's always on the brink of conking out it's so slow. One teeny hiccup and it's dead.

I also had all my idle air (although someone told me they are mixture screws) .. anyway, someone told me they are supposed to be 2 turns back from lightly seated, which is where they are. Maybe tightening them down a quarter to half turn might help.

I guess I'm going to drop it in the lake one day and just run it pretty good for a bit and see if I can get everything 'seated' or get the lead out or something ..

When the motor is idling you need to make sure its firing on all cylinders !!!!! its very easy to think its running on all of them only to find out that one is missing its beat. if you go to local motor shop you can buy spark testers that you can sort of see through, these are only any good if its a bit dim or better still in the dark. if you run the engine in a water butt or a drum and have these on you can see if the plugs are all getting a spark nice and evenly etc...these things look like yellow sort of spark plugs, they fit on the plug then the lead onto theses, only cheap and last a lifetime. be surprised what you can see in the dark that you cant see in daylight, like any sparks escaping and shorting out on the block etc. the 600-to 700 revs is with the engine in the water in gear, in neutral in the water it should be 700to 750 ish.. with the mixture screws you need to play around with these one at a time to find the sweetest place for each one, just because say number 1 likes 1.75 turns don't mean number 2 will like the same amount,it can be 1/4 turn either way and when changing the settings let it run for a minute to smooth itself out before thinking it has not made a difference etc.. hard to explain but so easy when you see it done. the timing again is very very easy when you actually see it done, youl kick yourself its so easy ha ha ..just make sure when you run it you have nice fresh petrol and get the expensive stuff it is better as its higher octane and your engine will prefer that to the cheap stuff (cheap stuff gives less mpg so false economy anyway). hope you get it running real good, will be a fast set up when you get it right. by the way tacho is just another name for a rev counter and that is the most important thing on the boat next to lifejackets, it tell you a lot more than just the revs, it lets you know the engine is performing bang on and running at what its meant to, it lets you know the idle is right or wrong, and on them days when you think its running brilliant it might show you its not feeling too well and needs the plugs cleaning etc. easy to find a cheap one on fleabay, .. phill

Wow Phil. Seriously, people like you are why the Internet is so great.

Alright ... so my fine tuning procedure is going to be as follows:

1. Check and re-check the carb sync procedure making sure all the butterfly valves are fully closed and seated and then tightening them up. This procedure is described in the service manual, but any tips are appreciated. Another mechanic here suggested using a flashlight to make sure they're seated properly.

2. Spend as much time as necessary adjusting the mixture screws....adjusting each one about 1/4 turn and waiting to find the sweet-spot for each carb, understanding that the backout amount might be different for each carb. Is it necessary to do this a couple times? Will adjusting screws 3 and 4 and 5 cause the sweetspot for one and 2 to be different?

3. Get a spark tester and be absolutely positive that I'm sparking on all cylinders.

Hopefully I can get to this in the next day or two. I'm actually thinking about taking a day off tomorrow to see if I can get it done. If not, I'll do it one day this weekend ... probably Saturday morning since I think it's going to rain Saturday afternoon and Sunday.

Phil ..really .. thanks. I so appreciate you spending so much time helping a bloke on the other side of the pond.

That's what these forums are all about. ive had people tell me whats wrong with my own engine that I just could not fathom out, they took a long time explain things to me and in the end I got there..i just love the internet boat forums. sometimes though we have to stop and make sure we are talking about the same things as often we get a bit confused with different meanings for the same things.. youl get there have fun doing it as its gonna save a fortune on repair bills from the shops....phill

OK .. I went and got the boat and dragged it home so I could work on it in the driveway on the muffs. I think that's not the best way to do it, but I wanted to sync the carbs and replace the battery. I did try and do at least a little bit of tuning of the mixture screws, but I think with it not under load or in gear idling in the water, it's just too hard to tell. Seems like I can't detect any change in the motor with minor adjustments to each mixture screw. For example, with the engine idling on the muffs, if I lost track of where I was with the turns on a mixture screw, I would just lightly tighten it down all the way so I could back it out and keep track. When I would do that, I would definitely notice an increase in RMP for a short period. Makes me think 2 turns out maybe too much. I previously had a lean sneeze, so I'm always feeling like I need to back them further out to get rich and avoid the lean sneeze.

I also stopped by the auto parts store and looked at what they had for a spark tester. It looks almost like another spark plug that you attach to the plug in the motor, and then ground the tester to the block. Does that sound like what you're talking about? Does it affect the motor? I've heard other suggest pulling the plug wire on each cylinder / plug while the motor is running. IF there's no noticeable difference when I pull a plug wire, then that cylinder wasn't sparking. Will it not harm the motor to pull a plug wire while it's running?

It's amazing how much higher the RMP is at idle on the muffs than when it's in the water.

Thanks!
Chris

Not sure what that spark tester is you have ?, try and post a pic of it. the ones I use can stay on the motor if you want, they look like extentions of spark plugs, here is a pic of what I use, (mine are yellow but the colour makes no difference)..... the pic of 4 testers is the ones I use, the other tester is miles better though as you can adjust the gap and make sure your getting a full 7/16ths spark jump, if its not jumping the full 7/16th then it will not run right and be well under power. Running on the muffs is totally different, you get is close then final set up when in the water. adjust the ideal a couple of hundred revs higher out the water to begin with. the mix settings can take a minute or two to settle down, that's why you have to wait and not just listen for a difference straight away.... pulling a plug is not a good idea while running, it can mess up the electrics big time, and if its good youl get a real nice shock as well.. hope pics shows up ok for ya. phill

Hey Phill! Thanks for sticking with me.

So ..this past Friday, I decided to go ahead and drop the boat in the water and go for a spin. The idle, still seems very low to me, but it was pretty stable, so I decided to go for it.

Dropped in, idled off the trailer and over to the courtesy dock. Wife parked the truck and trailer and got back to the boat. We idled out of the no-wake zone and I slowly throttled up. Jumped up on plane easily and I rode about 4300 rpm for maybe 4 - 5 miles. Then idled at about 1200 -1400 RPM for about 2 - 3 miles. Jumped back up and ran 4300 rpm back to the ramp. All in all it was a very successful trip.

I did spend a little time with the cowling off trying to adjust the idle, but I just didn't have the time that day. I don't have the necessary running lights for after dark, and I needed to get back before dusk. All in all, it sounded very strong. Next time I head out, I'll take some video and post it so you can take a listen and let me know what you think.

Phill .. thanks for all the help, you've really been great, and I appreciate it.

Chris

Now you are getting there ha ha , but you need to get that motor up to top revs now and that should be around 5500 at full throttle, this could be many things stopping it at 4300, the prop might be a bit too big or you need to get the maximum advance timing done now !!!!!!!!! 4300rpm is low for the top end. you will get it right though and then youl see massive power increase all the way through...glad the idle has got better for you. its all fun and games getting these right, but once right youl save heaps of money on wasted fuel etc..... best not to be out in the dark until its all perfect, then you can get some nice running lights and stay out longer. have a look on the prop every where to find the size of it, like 13x17 etc phill

Hey Phil,

I'm not sure that it won't go any higher than that, I just didn't give it much more throttle than that .. it just "felt" or "sounded" to me like that was about as top end as I should safely get. I've read lots of people saying things like "Oh, you're under propped" or "You need a prop with a different pitch" .. but honestly I have no idea how to tell that sort of thing. I also don't have any idea what the pitch on my prop is, or what it should be. When I'm up there later this week, I'll take a look at the prop and see if I can find the markings you describe and let you know what the deal is.

Also .. don't know if I ever provided any pictures .. but just though you might enjoy seeing the boat you're working on

That is a very very nice looking boat. your engine should easy hit 5500rpm, its nowhere near the powerband at 4500rpm. the power will come in with a big notice in speed from about 5000rpm onwards, at the moment your just at cruising speed, youl get a big surprise when that motor starts producing its oooomph. with the right prop you will realy need to hold on tightly when hitting the throttle lever. it realy is a great looking boat, I love the fast open/fisher types of boat, could put my little 13 footer inside that one ha ha

Hey Phil,

Thanks for the reply and compliments on the boat. I have to give you the credit for sticking with me and helping me get it running. This weekend my dad is coming up from Hilton Head South Carolina to visit and he's looking forward to seeing the old boat running again. He had pretty much left it for dead when I went down there and got it. I have to admit there was a time or two when I was going to give up on it too

I really appreciate all the time you've spent helping me with it. I've probably had it out 6 or 7 times in the past couple months without any trouble. I think now that I've gotten past the "I hope I don't have to get a tow back in" stage with the boat, I can spend time actually doing some fine tuning and adjustments to get better performance. I don't know if I'm just being a wimp, but I really am having a hard time pushing the boat much past 4,000 RPM. It just sounds like it's too much

Maybe this weekend while we're out, I'll make a video of the boat underway and you can let me know what you think.

Seriously .. thanks again. You've been so kind and helpful. I really appreciate all you've done to get me this far.

Chris

chackett said:

Hey Phil,

Thanks for the reply and compliments on the boat. I have to give you the credit for sticking with me and helping me get it running. This weekend my dad is coming up from Hilton Head South Carolina to visit and he's looking forward to seeing the old boat running again. He had pretty much left it for dead when I went down there and got it. I have to admit there was a time or two when I was going to give up on it too

I really appreciate all the time you've spent helping me with it. I've probably had it out 6 or 7 times in the past couple months without any trouble. I think now that I've gotten past the "I hope I don't have to get a tow back in" stage with the boat, I can spend time actually doing some fine tuning and adjustments to get better performance. I don't know if I'm just being a wimp, but I really am having a hard time pushing the boat much past 4,000 RPM. It just sounds like it's too much

Maybe this weekend while we're out, I'll make a video of the boat underway and you can let me know what you think.

Seriously .. thanks again. You've been so kind and helpful. I really appreciate all you've done to get me this far.

Chris

Click to expand...

Hey Phil .. don't know if you're still subscribed to this thread or not, but just wanted to touch base with you and let you know things are still great with this motor. I think my next project is to try a couple different props and pitches to tweak performance a bit. Right now I have a 22 degree pitch prop installed, and it seems like my top end is about 4100 rpm and 38 MPH. Suggestions at other forums are to drop to about a 17 degree pitch and see what happens.

Anyway, just wanted to let you know things are still strong with the motor. I appreciate the help!

Chris

Hello,

read your "blog", nice to see that everything worked for you. I also have old DT200 -87 and I know its quite rare engine so help is not always there.

But, have to ask you if you were able to adjust the idle by yourself or did it just set itself? Because I also have the idle speed a bit on low side, but I haven't been able to get it up (just 50-100rpm would be nice). It still runs, but still, can't be more than 600rpm on it. That knob doesn't do anything and my maintanence book sucks ass.

Capt.

CaptDjob said:

Hello,

read your "blog", nice to see that everything worked for you. I also have old DT200 -87 and I know its quite rare engine so help is not always there.

But, have to ask you if you were able to adjust the idle by yourself or did it just set itself? Because I also have the idle speed a bit on low side, but I haven't been able to get it up (just 50-100rpm would be nice). It still runs, but still, can't be more than 600rpm on it. That knob doesn't do anything and my maintanence book sucks ass.

Capt.

Click to expand...

Hey Capt,

I never was able to get the idle adjusted, but after working on the motor for the better part of a year, it really just kind of worked itself out. I agree the idle is still a tad slow for my taste, and low speed maneuvers like docking and trailering make me nervous because it always seems like the motor is going to konk out. It rarely does, but still .. just would like another 50 RPM out of it.

I can't say for certain, but I think I read somewhere that the adjustment knob for the idle is only effective when used in conjunction with a timing adjustment. Phillnjack from this thread was far and away the most helpful and I don't think I would have gotten it going without him. He was awesome. I think he tried to give me instructions on how to do that, but I never did do anything with it .. I think that's maybe a tad over my head.

For me, the biggest thing was cleaning the carbs thoroughly (and I mean really, really, really thoroughly .. like in an ultrasonic hot bath overnight), and then installing rebuild kits. Replaced the plugs, cleaned the gas tank, new filters, etc .. it's really a strong, reliable motor and I expect many more years of enjoyment from it.

The next thing I need to do it get a new prop for it. Right now the RPM maxes out at about 4200 RPM and pushes me along about 38 - 39 mph and as Phill says, I think the motor is supposed to go up to about 5500 rpm. I checked my prop and I have a 22 or 23 degree pitch prop on it now which is way too much. I think I've been told I need somewhere in the neighborhood of 17 or 18 degrees. I don't really have $300 to spend on a new prop right now, so I'll have to stick with what I have for a while.

Chris

chackett said:

The next thing I need to do it get a new prop for it. Right now the RPM maxes out at about 4200 RPM and pushes me along about 38 - 39 mph and as Phill says, I think the motor is supposed to go up to about 5500 rpm.
Chris

Click to expand...

Clymer manual (which sucks ass in other respects) gives max rpms for DT200 5000-5600rpm and 600-700rpm for idle. My engine does below 5000rpm, maybe 4500rpm on tacho, but I think the tacho gives uncorrect (too low) value. Suspect it, because it gives near 0rpm for idle while it runs normally. But I also think that the propeller is a bit on high side also for me, as my boat was originally Flipper 640HT, but was extended with factory made hull extension to 7.9m. So I think the prop was okay for 640HT, but a too high for "790HT".

Anyhows, good luck with your boat. I have a boat enthusiast here at work (welds cracked blocks, lower cases, rebuilds damaged goods, builds his own fiber class boats) and he said that Suzuki is The Mercedes Benz of the lakes. Allways doesn't feel like it, but I like that thought.

Capt.