Flywheel housing has no way to grease PDS bearing. What to do?

Hi all, first post here.

Apparently VP did not think it necessary to provide a way to grease the PDS bearing cavity on my particular model like they did on most others.

It's a 572 mated with a DP-C drive.

I've yanked the rear seal and the bearing (and cavity) looks very dry and I'm sure should be replaced. I intend to do that but hope to avoid pulling the engine. Based on other info, I believe I'm supposed to be able to pull the PDS out to the rear after removing the 2 big snap rings. I've tried, but the PDS and bearing aren't budging. Also, it would have been nice if VP would've drilled and threaded the aft end of the shaft itself. If so I might try a slide hammer.

Back to the point, how should one lubricate the bearing cavity as part of routine maintenance? Any tips or tricks or special tools, or am I going to have to waste a rear seal every time and still not be sure I'm getting grease to the front side of the bearing?

Thanks!

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By the time the "C" drive was in production, Volvo Penta went back to the single bearing PDS.
However, they did not use an "open" 6206 bearing, they went to a 6206 2RS bearing.




So yes.... you are correct, there is no grease port in your flywheel cover for this 6206 2RS bearing because this is a "sealed" bearing.
We don't grease these, we simply pull the PDS, and replace them.

This is an industry standard bearing, so you do not need to buy this via Volvo Penta.
You can buy this in Koyo, SKF, or any high quality "electric motor" grade bearing for around $15.
Avoid the BBQ'd Pork and Fried Rice bearings.

The AFT Flywheel Cover seal is 35x62x7mm, and is best if in a TCM or Timken brand. (there is also a FWD seal, but I doubt that you'll need to replace this one)
These usually take a day or two to bring in.... about $6 for one.

The beauty of your flywheel cover w/ the single sealed bearing, is that you can pull the PDS without removing the engine.
The earlier double bearing PDS used 6206 and 6007 open bearings and required engine removal.

Consider yourself lucky that you have this flywheel cover, and not the double bearing style.

There will be two large snap rings in the bore of the flywheel cover...... one for the seal stop, and one that retains the PDS bearing.
You won't see these until the seal is sacrificed and removed.
(there's a third small C-clip on the PDS, but you won't remove this one until the PDS is on the work bench)

This is an older 4 cylinder PDS with single open bearing and pilot nose.... yours will be very similar to this, but with a sealed 6206 2RS.



You'll need a long needle nose pliers with the tips modified to grab the snap ring eyelets.
Grind the tip diameter down some, and then tweak the tips inwards some changing the angle of the tips.
This way they will not slip out of the eyelets.
(I know of no factory made snap ring pliers that work as well..... trust me on this.)



Correct... this PDS is NOT threaded for a puller tool. (some of the older Holman Moody, Donzi and Eaton PDS's were threaded for a puller.)
Short of making a collet style pulling tool, try a super large Vice Grip pliers, and wrap a piece of brass shim stock around the PDS splines.
This not only protects the splines, but brass between steel makes for a much better "grip".
Pull on the vice grips.... or use a chain affair and a slide weight to shock the PDS and bearing free from the bore.

If you need to, go into the flywheel cover bore with a heat source. Heat will expand the flywheel cover bore some.
I've had some stubborn ones, but never one that I could not remove.

When going back together, be sure to grease the Borg Warner splines and the pilot nose.


I agree that it would be better if there was a grease port, and if we could use an open 6206 bearing.
Just plan to change this bearing when you replace your drive shaft bellows every two years.

Pull the transmission ONLY... no need to pull the entire drive.



.

I've welded a slide hammer slide and weight onto the adjustment screw of a pair of vise grips for my special puller.

BTW, there is a method to create a lube port for an open 6206 bearing in the charcoal gray single bearing PDS flywheel cover.

I drew this up for a guy who was considering doing this to his. I've not done one, but I belive that's it possible.

Wow! Thanks so much for all the detailed info. I've learned a lot. You've renewed my optimism re: this boat project. I will try your suggestions for shaft removal and will use a sealed bearing next time. The current bearing is an open one!

My flywheel housing is a red one, so I'm not sure I can attempt your most recent suggestion. Regardless, I intend on giving the needed PM once I get it going again.

The 6206-2RS bearing number sounded familiar to me. Just noticed it was listed at a pool pump supply store from where I ordered new bearings earlier this spring.

I stopped and picked up a new 35x62x7 seal this morning from Carquest for $9.99. They said it was made by 'National'. Not sure how good of quality it is, but since I expect to have a sealed bearing in the future, I don't think the seal is super critical.

Again, thanks so much! Wish me luck on removing the PDS.

Rattlin S said:

Wow! Thanks so much for all the detailed info. I've learned a lot. You've renewed my optimism re: this boat project. I will try your suggestions for shaft removal and will use a sealed bearing next time. The current bearing is an open one!

My flywheel housing is a red one, so I'm not sure I can attempt your most recent suggestion. Regardless, I intend on giving the needed PM once I get it going again.

The 6206-2RS bearing number sounded familiar to me. Just noticed it was listed at a pool pump supply store from where I ordered new bearings earlier this spring.

I stopped and picked up a new 35x62x7 seal this morning from Carquest for $9.99. They said it was made by 'National'. Not sure how good of quality it is, but since I expect to have a sealed bearing in the future, I don't think the seal is super critical.

Again, thanks so much! Wish me luck on removing the PDS.

Click to expand...

I used the version of the 6206 bearing which is sealed on one side (flywheel). When I grease my crosses I change my gun hose to a needle fitting and carefully insert between PDS shaft and seal and fill the cavity with grease. This has worked for 3 years now. After modifying my long needle-nose for the snap ring removal my mechanic buddy mentioned that Snap-On sells one now. I believe I got this info from this site and would like to say thanks to the contributors....salu2

doradojim said:

1. I used the version of the 6206 bearing which is sealed on one side (flywheel).
   
   
2. When I grease my crosses I change my gun hose to a needle fitting and carefully insert between PDS shaft and seal and fill the cavity with grease. This has worked for 3 years now.

Click to expand...

1. The 6206 2RS bearing is sealed on both sides. You must have picked the seal from one side.
   
   
2. The problem is...... you cannot lube this bearing dynamically.
   After three years use, you may want to pull the PDS and replace this $14 bearing. Do it while changing bellows, and you'll kill two birds.