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Honda 225 stops running over 4000 rpm

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markwis

New member
2001 BF 225 runs great but quits when running at higher rpms typically over 4200 rpm. I can turn the key off wait a few seconds & the re start with no problem & runs fine. I have replaced all fuel filters except high pressure (difficult to loosen screws on filter) but have drained the high pressure fuel tank & fuel was clean out of HP tank. I also checked & cleaned corrosion at rubber block where lines enter engine. Any ideas? Thanks
 
When you say "quits over 4200 rpm" do you mean that the engine just completely shuts down?

Sounds like it might be a vapor lock, but that is not supposed to happen with the VST working properly. Did you drain the VST using the little set screw that you see at the end of the plastic hose where is terminates?
 
chawk_man said:
When you say "quits over 4200 rpm" do you mean that the engine just completely shuts down?

Sounds like it might be a vapor lock, but that is not supposed to happen with the VST working properly. Did you drain the VST using the little set screw that you see at the end of the plastic hose where is terminates?
Click to expand...

"Quits" - it sputters, coughs, then stops, or sometimes just stops. I turn key off & then it restarts almost immediately with no problem & runs fine.
Yes, I drained the VST & it emptied clean with no sign of debris in the tank. I attempted to replace the high pressure filter, but the 3 phillips screws are tough to loosen without risk of stripping the head (I wish they had used allen or torx heads).
 
"Quits" - it sputters, coughs, then stops, or sometimes just stops. I turn key off & then it restarts almost immediately with no problem & runs fine.
Yes, I drained the VST & it emptied clean with no sign of debris in the tank. I attempted to replace the high pressure filter, but the 3 phillips screws are tough to loosen without risk of stripping the head (I wish they had used allen or torx heads).​



​
 
How long does it run before it stalls?

Buy, beg, borrow, or steal an impact screwdriver. That will get those phillips screws out. Just make sure that the phillips head bit fits very snugly. Alternatively, get a can of PB Blaster and soak them overnight. When you put them back in, put a thin coat of anti-seize grease on the threads. However, the HP fuel filter does not sound like it is the problem. It wouldn't restart and run fine after crapping out.

At this point my only idea is to shunt the service connector as described many times on this forum, and see if any diagnostic codes pop up on the MIL light. If you can't find it with a search of the forum, then come back to me and I will re-post it.
 
How long does it run before it stalls? - it will run all day under 4000 rpm, but if I run over it stalls after 2-4 minutes depending on load & rpms (@5000 2 minutes, @ 4300 4 minutes)
I'll try to get error codes.

Thanks chawk man
 
You said "it will run all day under 4000 rpm, but if I run over it stalls after 2-4 minutes depending on load & rpms (@5000 2 minutes, @ 4300 4 minutes)" ..... but once you restart, it runs fine at all rpm's - is that correct?

If so, then that is pretty darn strange. It sounds like fuel starvation at the higher rpms, that clears itself after re-start. Your timing above (2 minutes, 4 minutes) corresponds roughly to the amount of fuel resident in the VST.

Now, let's back up - what's in front of the VST in terms of fuel flow? The low pressure fuel pump, and the low pressure fuel filter, the low pressure filter bowl, and the fuel/water seperator bowl. Are tou using a Racor-type external fuel/water seperator filter external to the engine? If so, when was the last time it was changed? They do get clogged up. Starting from there, go to the onboard fuel/water seperator and make sure the bowl is properly seated and there is no fuel leakage. Next go to the low pressure filter and bowl. You said you changed the filter, but how good are the connecting fuel lines? Is the bowl seated properly? Any leaks? Check the leads to the LP fuel pump and make sure they are tight and there is no corrosion on the contacts.

If all that checks out, let me know. The next step is to test/pull the lp fuel pump.
 
Yes, it behaves as if it's fuel starved & I have approached it as you have suggested & replaced & checked all of the fuel filters & separators except the high pressure filter.
"but how good are the connecting fuel lines?" - I don't know - visually they look fine. Should I replace them, or remove & inspect?
 
markwis said:
2001 BF 225 runs great but quits when running at higher rpms typically over 4200 rpm. I can turn the key off wait a few seconds & the re start with no problem & runs fine. I have replaced all fuel filters except high pressure (difficult to loosen screws on filter) but have drained the high pressure fuel tank & fuel was clean out of HP tank. I also checked & cleaned corrosion at rubber block where lines enter engine. Any ideas? Thanks
Click to expand...


I have always used a super long phillips head screw driver which allows me to give pressure on screws as always worked just fyi

what about fuel bulb when motor dies is it soft or hard ? that happened to me it was hp fuel filter they hadnt been changed in years didnt reliaze they needed to be changed( once changed motor ran good
 
Update-
Today I tried running at high rpm's (5000) while the mate pumped the bulb keeping it hard - stalled out in less than 2 mins. Turned key off, waited 1 min. restarted ok, but alarm sounded & both green & red lights for about 1 min. then ok. Resumed at 4000 rpms & stalled in less than 2 min. Problem seemed to get worse after the 5000 rpm/ pump bulb experiment. Also attempted to shunt the service connector, but got solid red light. So, I tried running at 4000 rpms until stall, then removed engine cover & observed low press. fuel filter bowl only 1/2 full. Pump bulb, it fills completely. I've seen a post on another site that addresses the Intake Air Bypass (IAB) Control System which operates at 3950 rpm's (this is where I'm having problems) So, any more comments & ideas are appreciated. I know I should look at the VST/HP fuel filter, but the boat is on a mooring & until today I was ok operating at up to 4000 rpms.
Thanks guys.
 
On your panel, the green (oil) light should be on all the time when engine is running.

From your description, it soulds like the IAB solenoid may have failed. Check your connection first. If that is good, then pull and test. I'll try to find the test procedure later today when I have a few minutes to look it up.
 
Have you been ableto pull codes yet? Mine is giving me a solid batt and check engine light when I shunt. As for the VST, you might needto pull it out and take a hack saw blade and make slots in the screw heads..thats what I had to do.
 
Once the shunt is correctly connected, turn on the key switch and observe the number of blinks on the check engine (MIL) light. The blinks will repeat until you turn off the key.
If the MIL comes on and stays on without blinking, you have one of the following conditions:
• Short circuit in the service check connector wire
• Short circuit in the MIL wire
• Short circuit in the sensor system power supply
• Open circuit in the power supply line to the ECM
• Faulty ECM
If the MIL comes on, then goes off after a few seconds, there are no codes in the EPROM.
 
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