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Bf130 Died while underway

number1gator

New member
My 2003 BF130 died while underway yesterday, the first thing I noticed was high pressure fuel pump not running. the second thing I noticed was the 3 beeps when the key is turned on is not beeping. I checked the alarm its functional, I checked the kill switch its good, I put 12v to high pressure fuel pump it comes on, all fuses are good. I got 12v from key switch through wire harness to engine 14pin connector. I got 12v into Main Relay assembly but low voltage coming out. I cant hear any relay's "clicking" when the switch is turned on.
 
Ok I was wrong, I again tried to make sure that the fuel pump would come on when 12v applied to it but it wouldn't. So I took it off, even on the work bench I could not get it to come on with jumper wires. So what is the beeps when the key is turned on, and why are they gone? Do I have other issues
 
I finally got the pump to come on out of the shell with a strong battery but it only ran for a few seconds then quit it sounded pretty bad, now it will not do anything.
 
Replace the fuel pump first, then test and see if anything else is wrong. I'm speculating here, but it may be that if the ECM does not detect pressure in the fuel line at the rail, it's not giving you the all clear signal - the beeps.
 
The ECM is not smart enough to detect fuel pressure on the 130. It is a real basic motor.

It is possible that the pump locked up and blew a fuse. One of the fuses also feeds the power to the ECM through the main relay.

It is also possible that the main relay got fried in addition to or in lieu of the fuse issue.

The beeps and the fuel pump running for two seconds when you turn the key come from grounds generated by the ECM when it is turned on.

Mike
 
I tried the pump again it will come on an run but only for a few seconds then will not run again for a while not sure what the resistance on that motor should be but it has continuity across motor winding +/-. All the fuses are good, I had to order pump nobody locally has is in stock. How can I check the main relay?, you are referring to the main relay mounted on the front motor lower case below the silencer right?
 
You probably have some additional issues besides the pump. Check the voltage on the leads that go to the fuel pump and see what you have when you turn the key switch to on. You should have 12v for about 2 seconds, then it should go away. If not, more troubleshooting is in order. Most likely your main relay, wiring or connections, or ECU.

Mike
 
You are right I got no voltage at pump. Where do I start next, I did check voltage coming into main relay, I do have low voltage coming out, the wiring harness is in great cond. what about ignition switch? Is there a away to check ecu?
 
No real good way to check the ECU. Have to substitute a known good one. But, I would not be too concerned about that yet...there are a lot of other things to check first.

You asked about key switch? If the gauges come on when you turn the key to on, then the key switch is at least switching the 12v.

Going to the main relay...with key switch off...

Check the black lead for continuity to ground

Check both White/Red leads for 12v to ground (that makes sure the relay is getting voltage "to relay" to the ecu, starter, fuel pump)

There is a 5 step test for the main relay, but let's make sure voltages are going to it first. We are also checking some of the voltages coming out.

Mike
Turn the key switch to on....

Check the Black/Yellow lead for 12v to ground

Disconnect the lead going to the starter solinoid and put your meter back on the fuel pump leads. Turn the key switch to start and check the voltage. You should have voltage at the leads going to the fuel pump. If nol voltage, check for 12v at the White lead on the main relay (to ground) while you turn the key switch to start.
 
My tach is acting weird but it is the only gauge that is connected to engine, I only run two gauges tach and fuel and its on its own circuit. The black wire has continuity, the four wire plug that goes to the Main Relay... Black, Black /Yellow, White, Green/Red. Black goes to ground, B/Y into harness up towards top of engine, White to starter relay then to starter solenoid, Green/Red into ECU. Here is where I'm confused, to get power to the relay, power has to go through the starter relay, via white wire, I get power while turning engine over, not a full 12v but around 9v or so. With the key on I get 12v to ground via the black/yellow wire. I disconnected the lead going to starter turned key over while hooked to the fuel pump leads, I get 3volts going to fuel pump leads.
 
With the key switch in the on position I get 14volts (blew the bulb in my 12v test light) at White/ yellow on output side of the main relay, 3volts at the yellow/ black, 1.5volts at blue/ yellow, 1 volt at white/ black. When key switch is turned to start I get 3 volts at Blue/yellow going to fuel pump. I never get 12v going to fuel pump at anytime. Oh yea the starting battery is 12.9 volts so its good.
 
Having issues with my computer, so I will have to continue later.... how do you get 14v if your battery is only 12.9v with the motor not running? Have to check the others when I can pull up my diagram.

Mike
 
I did the System Relay test according to my book here is how its says do it: disconnect both battery cables, connect positive test lead on OHM meter to white/yellow wire terminal on relay, connect negative OHM meter lead to yellow/black terminal, using a jumper connect positive battery terminal to the black/yellow, using a jumper connect negative battery terminal to the black, it says I should have continuity or very low resistance. I do not have either. I have already concluded that at no time am I getting 12v to the blue/yellow going to the fuel pump. Is there a test for the ECU?
 
No test for ECU. I am a little confused on your test. Look at page 5-49 for a 5 step Main Relay check. You will have to hook up a battery to it and measure resistances as you operate the relays. If it does not pass any one of the tests, it is bad.

Mike
 
I got it fixed on Thursday night, I replaced the Main Relay and the fuel pump, problem solved. The place that I ordered my parts from said that the Main Relay had some problems over the years. Thanks Hondadude and Chuck_hawk for your help.
 
The original relays did have problems. I did not want to jump to conclusions until you went through the test.

I would have thought that all of the 130 main relays have been changed out by now. We changed all our customers' relays out while they were still in warranty.

It is possible that your starter motor locked up and drew a lot of current and blew the contacts of the relay. Or.....both going at the same time was a coincidence........I think not.

Glad you finally got it fixed.

Mike
 
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