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1993 Evinrude 70 HP - Cold Start Problem

petkovski

Member
Hi!

I have a '93 70HP Evinrude. I have trouble starting the engine when it's cold. It usualy takes 10 - 20 times to crank it until it starts. But, when I manually add some gas in the cylinders it starts right away. The motor then starts and stops with no problem, but If i leave it 15 - 30 minutes to settle, then it wont start again.

Can you tell me what should I do to solve this problem? I already know that the compression is good, the sparks are good and I have new sparkplugs.

Cheers.
 
The engine is tilted vertically. I then pump some fuel ( 2 - 3 - 4 ) times with the rubber pump. I noticed that this thing never gets hardened as it should be. A quick inspection shows that the rubber pump is working and when I disconnect the fuel hose it pumps fuel. I put the key in the ignition, add some gas (1/4 or 1/2) and start it up. I crank it 5 seconds max. then wait some time then try again and again and again.

Today, I've directly put some fuel in the first cylinder and the motor started right away.
 
Here's a video from the motor, working at idle and shaking a bit, then applying throtle.
@racerone Offcourse I'm pushing the key, I know how to start an engine obviously :)

 
With the engine in the running/vertical position (not tilted), the proper cold starting procedure is as follows:

Pump the fuel primer bulb up until it is hard. It takes more than 3 or 4 pumps to do this. If the carburetors aren't flooding, I would suspect that a valve in the fuel primer bulb is faulty and if so, replace the valve or the bulb assembly.

If the fuel primer bulb doesn't get hard, check to make sure that one or more of the carburetors isn't flooding (remove the carburetor face plate so that you can see the carburetor throats.)

Now, with that fuel primer bulb pumped up hard, crack the throttle just slightly to take the engine off the dead idle setting... 1/8 throttle would be sufficient.

Turn the key to the START position... and push the key in to engage the fuel primer solenoid. When the engine starts, usually within 6 revolutions, let the key release back to the normal RUN position. Should the engine seem like it is going to stall, push the key in momentarily (a tap would do it) to shoot a small amount of extra fuel in, just enough to keep the engine running until it warms up.

You mentioned nothing about the fuel primer solenoid so the following may be of interest to you.

(Fuel Primer Solenoid Function)
(J. Reeves)

The RED lever...... The normal operating/running position is to have that red lever positioned over top of the solenoid and aimed at the other end of the solenoid, gently turned to its stop. This is the normal/automatic mode position. Pushing the key in opens the valve within the solenoid allowing fuel to pass thru it in order to prime and start the engine. Looking upon this solenoid as a electric choke results in a better understanding of it.

Having that red lever turned in the opposite direction, facing away from the solenoid, allows fuel to flow thru it to the crankcase area. One would only turn the red lever to this position in a case where the battery might go dead and the engine had to be started via the rope pull method. Look upon putting the red lever in this position as moving a choke lever on a choke equipped engine to the full closed position. Either one would supply fuel to the crankcase/engine for starting purposes BUT if left in that position while running would flood the engine.

The later model primer solenoids are equipped with a schrader valve, used for attaching a pressurized can of fogging oil etc, available at your local dealership with complete instructions.

Pumping the fuel primer bulb up hard fills the carburetor float chambers of course, but that process also applies fuel pressure to the primer solenoid.


The two small hoses leading from the primer solenoid branch off via tees to each fuel manifold section that would feed fuel to the individual cylinders.


Pushing the key in activates the primer solenoid to allow fuel to flow thru it to the intake manifold passageways. Cranking the engine over causes the fuel pump to engage which in turn sends fuel pulses to the primer solenoid via the 3/8" fuel hose.


Some engines incorporates the "Fast Start" feature which automatically advances the spark electronically so no advance of the throttle is required for starting.
Engines that do not have the "Fast Start" feature will be required to have the throttle advanced slightly.


Starting procedure: pump fuel bulb up hard, crank engine and push the key in at the same time. When the engine fires/starts, release the key so that it falls back to the run position.


Bottom line..... Look upon the primer solenoid as an electric choke.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

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Last edited:
Hey, thanks for the advice. I would definitely inspect the things you've told me and give it a try. Will get back to you in a couple of hours with the results.

Cheers!
 
Also, check to see if your battery is spinning that engine at 250/300 RPMS or it will be hard to start. May want to have the batt load tested and all connections clean and shiney bright. Good luck.
 
There's no problem with the battery, it's brand new.
Will try joereeves advice and report back with the findings. Also, will take a couple of pictures, and a video so you can see what's happening.
 
Sorry, but post #3 did not mention that you knew about pushing in the key.---I have coached many people on how to start a motor and many did not know about pushing in the key.-----Most times folks say " thank you very much for helping "
 
Sorry for not mentioning the step where I pushed the key.

I solved the problem. I did not know that first I needed to turn on the ignition, then pump the fuel bulb until it hardens. Previously I've pumped the fuel bulb with the ignition turned off, and the bulb never pumped fuel. Now with the ignition on, after 2 - 3 pumps, the bulb is hard and after the first try the engine starts with no problems at all.

I will retry this procedure tomorrow and see if it's working, which I'm sure it will.

Thank you all for your contribution. I will update you tomorrow.

Here's a pic from the motor with the red lever turned in the correct position
http://i42.tinypic.com/25zp0mg.jpg
 
I solved the problem. I did not know that first I needed to turn on the ignition, then pump the fuel bulb until it hardens. Previously I've pumped the fuel bulb with the ignition turned off, and the bulb never pumped fuel. Now with the ignition on, after 2 - 3 pumps, the bulb is hard and after the first try the engine starts with no problems at all.

You solved the problem? I was hoping that it might have had something to do with the information we have been forwarding to you.

The ignition does not need to be on in order for the fuel primer bulb to become hard. The ignition switch has absolutely nothing to do with the fuel flow when pumping the fuel primer bulb. Where did you pick up that piece of misinformation?
 
Well, maybe it was just a coincidence. But previously, I've tried many times pumping the bulb to make it hard but nothing happened. I just thought to turn the ignition on and give it a try, and the bulb hardened only after 2 - 3 times pumping. The engine then started without a problem. I know this is purely mechanical and it has nothing to do with the ignition, but again, maybe it was just a coincidence. Today I'll try again and see what happens.

I also put a bottle of engine additive / cleaner in the fuel tank, hoping to refresh the engine a bit. Next month a mechanic will come to fully inspect the engine, change the fuel and oil filter and clean the carbs.

I'm glad you provided me with your information, regardless it didn't directly solved my problem. But now I know the function of the red lever and the solenoid.
 
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