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Thread: cat d333

  1. #1

    Default cat d333

    hello to all ,I have a pair of d333 cats in a boat I bought recently ,my question that I need some help with is this . one of these engines hasn,t run in a long time so i have begun the tear down to rebuild,now the problem is Ihave heard through the grapevine that this engine has been rebuilt twice before because of coolant entering where it should not,so now as far as I know this can only be the head ie pre cup seals /warpage /cracked etc. now this problem most likely resulted in overheating,so does anyone know if the block itself can be damaged by this and render it useless or should I just get a new head and proceed as planned, money is a huge factor so I must choose wisely any and all help much appreciated ,p.s other engine runs perfectly thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Kawarthas
    Posts
    3,224

    Default Re: cat d333

    the most common area for coolant to enter the lube is lower liner seals. of course it could also be something simple like an engine oil cooler. some pressure testing before teardown would have been helpful.
    The way to proceed is to inspect every part. The idea of throwing a new head at it is not logical at all.
    You need someone familiar with this engine that knows how to work on it. The liners may need inserts cut into the block. If the block has been inserted before it might not be repairable. Cutting inserts requires special tools (as does even pulling liners).
    If money is a huge factor you need to repair it once and properly, not take several attempts at throwing random parts at it.
    Last edited by hystat; 05-07-2013 at 01:31 AM.
    Factory Manual Best, Seloc 2nd best, Clymer if you're desperate.

  3. #3

    Default Re: cat d333

    Quote Originally Posted by hystat View Post
    the most common area for coolant to enter the lube is lower liner seals. of course it could also be something simple like an engine oil cooler. some pressure testing before teardown would have been helpful.
    The way to proceed is to inspect every part. The idea of throwing a new head at it is not logical at all.
    You need someone familiar with this engine that knows how to work on it. The liners may need inserts cut into the block. If the block has been inserted before it might not be repairable. Cutting inserts requires special tools (as does even pulling liners).
    If money is a huge factor you need to repair it once and properly, not take several attempts at throwing random parts at it.
    thanks for the reply, I agree with your logic for sure, the thing is that the engine sat so long that it seized solid so I had to tear it down anyway and most parts like sleeves /pistons lifters etc are fairly cheap so rather than chance it I figured new was a better option however the coolant wasn,t getting into the oil so I,m fairly sure its the head but as you suggested I took the coolers in and had them cleaned and tested at a good rad shop to make sure,the head is going the same route ,do ou know a good way to check the top of the block for flat?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Kawarthas
    Posts
    3,224

    Default Re: cat d333

    Liner projection is what you are concerned with - the block merely houses the liners. You need a manual.
    Factory Manual Best, Seloc 2nd best, Clymer if you're desperate.

  5. #5

    Default Re: cat d333

    Quote Originally Posted by hystat View Post
    Liner projection is what you are concerned with - the block merely houses the liners. You need a manual.
    okay thanks,that,s what I thought and I do have the shop manual ,looks like I need a new head as suspected.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Kawarthas
    Posts
    3,224

    Default Re: cat d333

    In the specs section there will be something like:
    Depth of bore in block for liner: .xxx .001 in.

    Height of liner over block (under installation pressure) ... .xxx to .xxx in.

    you have to clamp down the liner using the tooling described to replicate the clamp force of the head. Then you use the protrusion measuring tool. Don't reassemble the engine without checking liner projection.

    I used to batch rebuild these 330/333/3304/3306 engines for a living. Liners sinking into the block is the main reason head gaskets do not seal. There's no home-grown fix. Attempts to shortcut the proper repair never worked. If the liners have sunk, the block needs liner inserts cut.
    Factory Manual Best, Seloc 2nd best, Clymer if you're desperate.

  7. #7

    Default Re: cat d333

    Quote Originally Posted by hystat View Post
    In the specs section there will be something like:
    Depth of bore in block for liner: .xxx .001 in.

    Height of liner over block (under installation pressure) ... .xxx to .xxx in.

    you have to clamp down the liner using the tooling described to replicate the clamp force of the head. Then you use the protrusion measuring tool. Don't reassemble the engine without checking liner projection.

    I used to batch rebuild these 330/333/3304/3306 engines for a living. Liners sinking into the block is the main reason head gaskets do not seal. There's no home-grown fix. Attempts to shortcut the proper repair never worked. If the liners have sunk, the block needs liner inserts cut.
    are there any visible signs of this problem ? I mean something I can check without the tools you describe as getting a hold of them might be a problem where I live however I havent pulled the sleeves or pistons yet as they are seized in the engine {this weekends project was to drill a hole in the piston and with luck get both piston and sleeve to come out together ,then press the piston out to get my connecting rod back} do you think I could get this reading with feeler guages?

  8. #8

    Default Re: cat d333

    Quote Originally Posted by hystat View Post
    In the specs section there will be something like:
    Depth of bore in block for liner: .xxx .001 in.

    Height of liner over block (under installation pressure) ... .xxx to .xxx in.

    you have to clamp down the liner using the tooling described to replicate the clamp force of the head. Then you use the protrusion measuring tool. Don't reassemble the engine without checking liner projection.

    I used to batch rebuild these 330/333/3304/3306 engines for a living. Liners sinking into the block is the main reason head gaskets do not seal. There's no home-grown fix. Attempts to shortcut the proper repair never worked. If the liners have sunk, the block needs liner inserts cut.
    right on the money,,thanks all ,complete success

  9. #9

    Default Re: cat d333

    Good! and good on you for reporting back!

  10. #10

    Default Re: cat d333

    A quick question does anybody now where I might find an alternator bracket for a cat 333 they stole my alternator and bracket on my d333 generader I am desperate to find this part

  11. #11

    Default Re: cat d333

    Quote Originally Posted by maverick4 View Post
    hello to all ,I have a pair of d333 cats in a boat I bought recently ,my question that I need some help with is this . one of these engines hasn,t run in a long time so i have begun the tear down to rebuild,now the problem is Ihave heard through the grapevine that this engine has been rebuilt twice before because of coolant entering where it should not,so now as far as I know this can only be the head ie pre cup seals /warpage /cracked etc. now this problem most likely resulted in overheating,so does anyone know if the block itself can be damaged by this and render it useless or should I just get a new head and proceed as planned, money is a huge factor so I must choose wisely any and all help much appreciated ,p.s other engine runs perfectly thanks.
    By chance do you have spare parts for any cat 333

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