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How do I prime the fuel pump on a Volvo Aq130 C Or how to test the fuel pump

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amkohl

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I have a AQ130c 270 volvo motor on a boat I jjust purchased.

My question is, the boat has been sitting for 10 years, it was winterized before sitting up, If you poor gas in the Carbs it will start right up, I knew the gas was very old in it so I cleaned the gas tank and fuel filter, put more gas in it and when I try to start it it does not start, It seems as if the gas is not going through, do I need to prime it or what do I need to do.

I took off what I am assuming is the antisiphon valve and I sucked gas up through it and I can blow through the fuel filter so I am assuming both of those are fine? I did notice there is gas under neath the fuel pump like maybe it is leaking. I found the priming lever but when I push the lever it gives no resistance until you get it all the way down and it gives very little resistance so I was not sure if it was working correctly. Thanks for all the help

Is there anyway to take the fuel pump apart and find out if it is working?
 
Have you tried hooking up a temporary hose to a gas can? The fuel around the pump, is it from the pump itself or from a fitting or hose?

My experience with this same thing a few years ago was that you needed to run the engine for a few minutes by trickling gas in the carbs before the pump actually started to work.
 
I filled the fuel filter full of gas, then unhooked the line from the gas tank and blew in it forcing gas into the pump and when I would manually prime it, it would pump the gas and squirt gas out like it was pumping ( I had it unhooked from the carburator) but when I hooked it all back up it would not pump it from the tank.
 
You need to remove unknowns from the equation. We don't know about the age or condition of the existing fuel lines. If old and made of non-ethanol resistant material, they could be collapsing under pump suction. You will need to hook a piece of good fuel hose to the pump and come directly from a gas can in order to test the pump. You may need to keep the engine running for a few minutes to get the pump to supply fuel to the carbs. If you have the rubber carb supply hoses, they could be rotted out and blocked.

It's really best to verify individual components so you know what you're working with. Those of us with older boats have learned the hard way that everything is in doubt until proven otherwise.

By the way, the crush washers on the carb inlet banjo bolts are single use items. You might get lucky and find some locally as brake line washers but be prepared to buy a bunch of them from a VP distributor and have them on hand. You can frustrate the heck out of yourself and ruin the top of a carbureator if you try to stop leaks with brute force on those.
 
You've started two threads for basically the same issue(s). IMO, best to stick with one thread, until the subject/topic changes.

Here's what I posted to your first thread:

The ten year old fuel is a problem, and in particular if it cycled through ten warm summers.

Given that this is ten years old, I'd not only remove it, but I'd be taking every fuel related component out and either replace or clean them....... fuel tank pick up tube, anti-siphon valve, fuel lines, fuel filter unit, fuel pump, etc., and perhaps the carburetor and it's fuel line.


Pay attention to what Eduardo is telling you.
If a replacement mechanical fuel pump is not available, your option is an electric fuel pump.
To meet USCG regulations, the electric fuel pump must have a N/O low oil pressure switch in the loop. This is to prevent continued fuel pump operation in the event of engine shut down issues.

Along with the N/O low oil pressure switch, comes the need for what we call a "Start-by-pass" circuit.... of which is not a USCG requirement, but it is necessary.
This allows the electric fuel pump to operate during cranking, while oil pressure is building enough to close the N/O switch contacts.


Post back if you need details on the installation.

The electric fuel pump must be Marine rated.
This is a Carter, also sold under a few other names.




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I believe this is your AQ130 mechanical fuel pump. This is what came up when I did a search just now.



As you can see, it is designed so that it can be disassembled..... very similar to the older Carter mechanical fuel pumps.
The problem is age.
You may not be able to get the screws out without damage. Aluminum housing + non-SS steel screws + corrosion = bad ju-ju!

Here's the thing..... even if you were able to disassemble it, I doubt that you will be able to find parts for it.
I think this is what Eduardo is refering to.


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Last edited:
Yes that is the one that ours has, Thanks for the help. I just wasn't sure if I could take it apart to clean it and try to get it working. I hate to replace it if I am just not getting it primed and that's why it isn't working.
 
amkohl said:
Yes that is the one that ours has, Thanks for the help. I just wasn't sure if I could take it apart to clean it and try to get it working. I hate to replace it if I am just not getting it primed and that's why it isn't working.
Click to expand...
Inside of the pump will be a diaphram, and two check valves.
The diaphram is spring pressure operated (via the camshaft lever arm) as to control pressure.
The diaphram may be OK, but I can just about tell you that the check valves are toast by now.

As for the primer lever, the lever should operate the diaphram just as the fuel pump camshaft lever arm does.
If it will not prime now, it likely won't pump fuel once the engine is up and running.

If you cannot get the mechanical pump working, just bite the bullet and install a Carter electric, or similar.



Also, understand that there's nothing inexpensive about owning a boat! :(


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I would suggest checking eBay for a used, good condition pump...I bought a used one in great condition not long ago for less than $50. Of course you never know if it will work OK until you install it but it might be worth the gamble.
 
If the pump works and pumps pressure to the carb, won't working the priming lever seem like it's doing nothing? I'd look into a blockage at the carb.
 
Guys, his AQ130 push rod engine could be 40 years old by now. If the fuel pump is original, it too could be 40 years old.

Just bit the bullet, and do the electric fuel pump.


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Here's a questionable practice I use, instead of dribbling gas in the carb.
32oz%20bottle%20sprayer.jpg

A spray bottle with gas - much more control than dribbling...can even 'adjust' RPM.
Of course a backfire can be a problem with either method.
 
Just saw this thread. These fuel pumps had a problem with the arm falling off and into the bottom of the pan they went. There is a screw on the outside of the pump that holds the arm in place. It may be in the bilge of the boat. This should be part of a seasonal service, check the screw tightness, same goes for the screws in the top of the float bowl of the solex's.
 
I replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter and all the lines, cleaned the carb, everything is running great but now the water pump is leaking anyone know where the best place is to get a new one?
 
boatdoc55 said:
130's didn't have a circ pump. Very easy to rebuild your pump.
Click to expand...
Yep...... these used only the sea water pump.



The kit that Joe shows should do the trick.
Look closely at the impeller thrust surface within the pump body........ If it's scared, you may want to replace the entire pump.



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Thanks, it is dripping small drops of water so we went ahead and took the boat to the water today just to make sure everything was working properly before dumping any more money into it. W

Well the engine ran good but when you would get up to about 3000RPMS it starts slipping it will rev all the way up to 5000 Rpms but it is still not going any faster. Can anyone tell me what might be wrong or what I need to do?

Thanks in advance
 
That problem COULD be one of two things. Your prop hub is slipping, but this normally happens right off idle or your cone clutch is slipping in the upper gear. Put your spare prop on and give it another go and when that isn't it, your're going to need some upper gear work.
 
Unfortunately I don't have a spare prop, I will try the other things, It was nice to have it in the water for a little bit today and she ran perfect at low speed just when trying to go faster it felt like it was slipping, Oh and I should mention it would never plane out but I am assuming that was because I could not get up enough speed because the only thing going up was the RPMs not speed. Thanks I will keep you posted as to what I find.
 
Just make two marks on the prop that line-up: one in the hub and one on the prop itself. Then take the boat for a run until you recreate the symptoms. Then remove the prop. If the two marks no longer line-up, you know for sure what the problem is.
 
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