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Where's this water coming from?

footbrake

footbrake

Contributing Member
Finally got my mechanic over to change the engine oil and filter(2.5 120hp 4cyl.) and to check and get the outdrive fluids up to snuff. After having started the boat on the trailer with muffs of course, everything seemed fine and dandy. Had good oil pressure,40lbs., temp. about 160-180. ran it about 15 minutes and shut it off to check the points and such. Here's where it gets interesting. I went into the house for about 5 min. and came out to find the bilge pump pumping water out and the drain in the back pouring water out. The water was cold so I figured it didn't come from the motor. The bilge area was wet. If there was water in the boat, why didn't it start coming out before this? there must have been a lot of water somewhere for the bilge to kick on. what's going on here? thanks-Russ
 
Russ, are you in an area where engine winterizing for freeze protection is required?

If so, who winterized your engine..... and how was it winterized?

These are important questions if you do winterize for freeze protection.



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summer said:
do you think it possible influences by the water??
Click to expand...
Well, I'd need to hear back from Russ first..... but if he does indeed winterize for freeze protection, and if this was not done correctly, his water source may be from a freeze crack.
If large enough, he may not be able to feel much heat in the water.

As for who performed the winterizing....... this may influence what his insurance policy would be able to provide..... or not provide.

Or...... it may simply be a drain plug that was not re-installed.

Need more info from Russ.


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It was winterized by the previous owner, who has had it for 20 years and is a mechanic. Like I said, we had it running for like 15 minutes and no leaks anywhere, even after shutting it off. Then about 15 min. later is pumping water out
 
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I have the same block and drive.

The block and manifold doesn't hold 5 gallons.

So the water was coming into the bilge while it was running.

Ok look down the back of the engine see the rubber cap, about 3 " round... starboard side... it have a crack or hole in it.

You might have to take it off but run your fingers all around the top.

A new one in home cheapo is about 6 bucks.

Double and triple check the drains.

See the rubber hose around 3' round that connects the elbow to the down pipe on the exhaust. Check that. The bottom round rubber hose on that downpipe check that.

Don't see nothing , turn the water on to the drive start her up and watch for drips see where the water comes in.

What i'm thinking water being pumped out the bilge and pouring out the bilge drain got to be more then a 5 gallon bucket of water.

The previous owner the mechanic don't know anything ether hmmmmm.

Oil is good no water in it ? Not over filled ?
 
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No the water wasn't coming in when it was running and not for about 10 minutes after we shut it off and pulled the spark plugs and I had it all covered up again. Maybe 15 minutes later water was pumping out and running out the drain.Tomorrow morning I'm gonna check everything you say. Printed your reply so I don't forget anything. Do you think I should call the previous owner to see if maybe he left something open like a drain? I know it's my boat now but he said to call him if there was any problem when I fired it up in the spring. Thanks I'll let you know what's going on. Do you think there is water lodged up under the floor and everytime I move the boat around it finds a way to get back to the bilge? Just a thought.
 
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Foorbrake, I belive that this engine is Raw Water Cooled....... correct?

Let me take a stab here, in addition to what MM said.

And BTW, I agree with MM, if this was five gallons of water, that would be more than what your engine/manifold would hold..... but there may be an explanation for it. (see ** below)

footbrake said:
No the water wasn't coming in when it was running
Is it possible that you did not notice a small amount of water dripping or leaking into the bilge?

and not for about 10 minutes after we shut it off and pulled the spark plugs and I had it all covered up again. Maybe 15 minutes later water was pumping out and running out the drain.
** If the engine block drain plug had been left out for the winter (as it should have been), perhaps your bigle received some water while running, and the balance of the water was from when you shut it down!!!!
(the drain port is not very large)

Do you think I should call the previous owner to see if maybe he left something open like a drain? I know it's my boat now but he said to call him if there was any problem when I fired it up in the spring.
It may be worth a phone call.


Do you think there is water lodged up under the floor and everytime I move the boat around it finds a way to get back to the bilge?
That is possible, and it would likely be from rain water, if not from the engine.
Click to expand...

While you are speaking with the previous owner, ask him what procedure he used to winterize each season.

These winterizing kits from Camco and StarBrite, along with the suggested methods, should be avoided.

Just plain ole air will not freeze expand and crack our expensive cast iron components.



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Yes it is raw water cooled and I'll get back after I check things out. I really appreciate the interest as it's my first boat and hope everything is ok
 
Well , went to the boat today and started it for a while and let it run about 15 minutes. No water coming in anywhere and this time no water being pumped out after shutting it down. Hopefully it was just water somewhere in the boat that decided to come out. One thing I did notice though, the water temp was creeping toward the 200 degree range. Should the temp be higher running it with the muffs on than actually in the water? Should I change the thermostat just to play it safe? thanks everyone
 
footbrake said:
Well , went to the boat today and started it for a while and let it run about 15 minutes. No water coming in anywhere and this time no water being pumped out after shutting it down. Hopefully it was just water somewhere in the boat that decided to come out. One thing I did notice though, the water temp was creeping toward the 200 degree range.
1...... Should the temp be higher running it with the muffs on than actually in the water?
2...... Should I change the thermostat just to play it safe? thanks everyone
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1.... No... not if done correctly. Plus we're not loading an engine while on the garden hose.

2.... You certainly could, but it's only going to help if it's faulty.
Learn your sea water path, and explore it until you find the issue.

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Well to be honest with you, being new to this, I don't know if I could have hurt anything, but I ran the motor with the tilt up for about almost a minute until I realized I hadn't lowered it. The boat being 30 years old, I don't know if the guage is that correct either. It seemed ok the other night though, that's why I hope I didn't hurt anything. Ricardo, you certainly have helped and I thank you.
 
Ether you need a new impeller kit in the drive or the t-stat is frozen closed or the elbow is shot or a combination of all 3.

If this were my boat, i would install a new kit, a new t-stat, and pull the elbow off to see if it is clogged up.
 
Thanks for the reply, I'll check the easiest first(thermostat). Is the impeller job very difficult ,and should I have a marine mechanic do it If I need one?
 
footbrake said:
I'll check the easiest first (thermostat).
Is the impeller job very difficult, and should I have a marine mechanic do it If I need one?
Click to expand...

Footbrake, many will go for the easiest first. This approach is not always the best approach, IMO.

More often than not, the impeller pump is the problem. People tend to defer impeller maintenance.
People will also do an accidental "dry start" and end up with a damaged impeller (water lubricates the impeller).

Also, with your Stringer Drive, I believe that when the drive has been fully raised, the ball gears disengage.
When disengaged, the sea water pump is not turning.
If you ran the engine for any length of time (with no impeller action), damage may occur to the rubber exhaust components.


I also agree with Master Mechanic's previous post.

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Well if I forgot to re-post I'm sorry guys, but found I had a blown head gasket, not between cylinders but the other way. Had a miss in it and one cylinder had almost no compression. Sent the head out,had it magnafluxed for cracks , it was ok but needed a little milling to square it up, a couple valves and had them do a refresh on the whole head. I might as well since it's off anyway. Hey what the heck I needed a new head gasket anyway. At least I know the top of the motor will be good.
 
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