Logo

Need chrysler 440 marine long block or short block

captain_ed

Regular Contributor
My port standard rotation engine has a groove in the cylinder #7. It is a single groove about 1/16" deep that stops about 2" short of the top of the cylinder wall. I pressure tested at 100 PSI before I pulled the heads today. I don't know if it can be rebuilt or not.

Now I am thinking maybe I should go for a long block or short block. I think that the heads can be saved, but I am not sure about the block. Any experience with remanufactured engines? Reputable sellers on the net? It might be cheaper to just buy a long block, but I have no experience with this.

Any idea of what it will cost to get the engine out of the boat? It is a port engine and my cabin door is on the starboard side, of course.

To rebuild or not to rebuild.....
 
I got an estimate for $400 each way. Take the motor out of the port side and get it out to the back deck so that I can hire a forklift to lift it out of the boat. It will cost another $400 to get it back into the boat. I think that the forklift is $75 per hour (minimum of 1 hr.). I saw lots of horror stories from people that ordered long blocks from some of the internet favorites. I will be rebuilding my old engine. Ball park estimate of $3,500 depending on what they find.
 
I got an estimate for $400 each way. Take the motor out of the port side and get it out to the back deck so that I can hire a forklift to lift it out of the boat. It will cost another $400 to get it back into the boat. I think that the forklift is $75 per hour (minimum of 1 hr.). I saw lots of horror stories from people that ordered long blocks from some of the internet favorites. I will be rebuilding my old engine. Ball park estimate of $3,500 depending on what they find.

4 guys can lift it out by hand if you strip it down to the short block in the boat, remove the manifolds, heads, pumps etc. and it's not that heavy.

Dan
 
I removed and rebuilt the transmission and gear reduction 2 years ago. We about killed ourselves getting it out and back in by hand. We did it,but it was very difficult. I am taking the transmission and gear reduction out with the long block. I figure that it is too heavy by hand.

I have no idea about where to rent a "portable gantry". I guess this is a frame and block/tackle? It would have to be able to slide the engine over to the cabin door side of the salon.
 
Dammed if I'd pull a motor out for such a minor groove as that. So it uses a bit of oil? Big deal. Oil's cheap. Add a quart now and then, and change the plug now and then if needed.

My two cents.

Jeff
 
Dammed if I'd pull a motor out for such a minor groove as that. So it uses a bit of oil? Big deal. Oil's cheap. Add a quart now and then, and change the plug now and then if needed.

My two cents.

Jeff

I would have left it alone if I thought that it would last. The wrist pin let loose and was letting the bar that connects the piston to the connecting rod (blankin on name of part) score the cylinder wall. That piston had already dropped to 100 PSI on compression test. The rest were 140 or so. I figured it would destroy the block.

It has been an expensive project. The motor is back on the engine mounts and the shaft alignment is way out. I guess the machine shop messed with the engine mount adjustments instead of just unbolting them from the block. I guess that it could have been out of alignment before and I did not know it because I never got vibration. I tried to adjust it myself, but could not get the motor to budge. I broke a 5 ft. 2" x 4" trying to pry the front of the engine to the starboard side a little. The pinch bolts were loose,but she would not move. I am having a professional do it .......
 
Arrgh!

I use a bottle jack under the front pulley to "persuade" the motor to move. Angling the jack forces the stubborn little darlings to one side.

Good luck with the motor. Sorry to hear you're having so much trouble.

Jeff
 
I made a frame from lumber in the boat and used a come along to pull mine.

Will

I did the same thing I built double A frames and a header bar across the top and bracing between the two frames down lower. I also built a trolley to ride on the header bar to maneuver the trans around easier. Once it was out I set it down and moved the a frame to where half was on the dock and half on the boat. Lifted the trans again and used the trolley to put it right in the dock cart, worked really well. Then again it was not an entire engine but I think I could have done it.

matt
 
One other thing: Old, painted and/ or rusty mounts won't slide for adjustment. I had to jack my engines up, remove the mounts and clean them up, before they would move.

Jeff
 
One other thing: Old, painted and/ or rusty mounts won't slide for adjustment. I had to jack my engines up, remove the mounts and clean them up, before they would move.

Jeff


The men that adjusted the alignment had to take each mount off and clean the paint off so that they would move. It was a 5 hour project.
 
Back
Top