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74 Rude 115

C

Clayton Harrell

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Recently bored and new pistons, 115lbs on all 4 cyl, cranks right up, idles fine, just before my boat gets on top, engine kills, cranks right back up. What's meant by "checking the overheats"? tan wires, see if 12v is there or what?
 
Run with a timing light and see if you loose spark on all 4 or just a couple.------------Overheat buzzer can be tested by sliding the rubber boot back on the tan wire.--Then turn ignition key to " on " and touch the bare connecters to ground on head bolt.
 
racerone said:
Run with a timing light and see if you loose spark on all 4 or just a couple.------------Overheat buzzer can be tested by sliding the rubber boot back on the tan wire.--Then turn ignition key to " on " and touch the bare connecters to ground on head bolt.
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I decided to give the mechanic a call, was going to chew him out for charging me 175.00 labor, and 100.00 for a used starter, since he didn't call me to ask about the starter, I had an extra one under the dash, anyway, he claims its going to be under the flywheel, so his carb cleaning job was not needed, he misdiagnosed the problem, and will fix it now with used parts, for free, so I'll get a spark, or sound when I ground that connecter? and would a malfunction in that circuit cause fire to cut at the about 1/3 throttle position?
 
so I'll get a spark, or sound when I ground that connecter?
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Alarm horn should sound off.
and would a malfunction in that circuit cause fire to cut at the about 1/3 throttle position?
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Won't affect it. It's a simple circuit. The horn has 12 vdc on one side of it and the other wire is attached to the temp. switch in the head. When the engine overheats the switch closes and grounds the horn setting it off. So by you grounding the wire at the switch it should sound off if it is working.
 
Thank You, it is an old motor, but bored and new pistons, the rest sat up for a period of time, and if I'd had put a new impeller, some of this wouldn't be needed, but I think the stator area is where we're going, new plugs, power pack, carbs good, new tank, hoses, filters, etc..
 
Ended up being the stator, and he tried to charge me again, now the darn water pump is out, because that horn surely works, got mud in it, and not sure if I have to remove carbs to get to the shifter linkage, but will give it my time to seek this out, just wanted to check in here, thanks. (Clayton)
 
Ok I almost burnt it up again, with sand in the water pump, have a kit in hand, foot wont come down enough nor kick out the shifter in the foot, and I cant find anyway of disconnecting it on top, its impossible even all apart to see the top how it is affixed to the rod
 
If you have someone move the gearcase, while you are looking under the carbs you'll see the spot where the shift rod meets the shift linkage. The rod is held to the linkage with a screw. I don't remember if it has a slot for a screwdriver of a bolt head. Whatever, remove the screw, and the linkage is free from the shift rod. DON'T turn the shift rod when you have the gearcase off. It threads into the lower unit, and needs to be set at a certain distance for it to work properly. By turning it in or out, you are shortening or lengthening the rod. Good luck, they are good motors, I've got a 1980 that's never been apart.
 
It's easier to see the screw when the lower unit is raised to it's normal position. The screw may not be seen if you have the lower unit dropped down, and the motor should be in reverse, to raise the screw up even higher from the bottom motor cover.
 
Ok so it wont pop out of the lower unit like a 50 hp, and I could almost see that screw you mention, after I removed the carbs and few other items so I could see in there, hmmph, so I dropped the lower unit to see what I could do there, lol thanks bill_w for your answers, I'll put the bolts back in after work tomorrow.
 
When you go to put the screw back in, I found that an extendable magnet works good for getting it into the hole. Then sorta slide the magnet off the screw, and hopefully it stays in the hole, and you can get a screwdriver on it and tighten it. Put a bit of lock tite or gasket sealer on the screw when you re-assemble it.
 
Mr Bill, mine isn't like that at all, off the shifter on the side of the motor, changes circular to up and down, on one of that see saw, 5/8" bolt head takes the see saw off the block, but the shifter rod has a rivet or pin that is inaccessible without taking the block off the shroud, I'm stuck on this..
 
You're good, that is what it was, now the problem is they sold me a single pickup pump kit, and I have a double pumper for my v engine, one tube is completely smashed up, shop it goes I guess, but thank you both for the help..
 
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