helmet steering pin removal procedure

DP-a trying to find out correct procedure for this...researched forums..vp manual, seloc etc..some say M6 screw but what thread? Some 1/4" 20 worked for them. The 2 allen head type bolts that are in the bushing now do they get turned out then do you use the 2 screws to push out the round shaped bushing? I plan using a little heat so where should i direct heat?

No heat is needed here.

There should be two "jack threads" in the helmet pin.
These are typically 1/4" NC U.S.
Blast the threaded holes out with air.
Shoot some spray cleaner into the holes, and blast then clean again.

Using two grade #8 fully threaded 1/4" NC bolts, grease the threads liberally.

Turn the bolts in evenly, and you will be able to gently jack the pin from the transmission collar.

Much obliged Ricardo...sorry for my confusion just a few more ?'s..whe u say "pin" that is the round metal piece with the 4 holes in it? Also, how do the two bolts that are curently in the round metal piece come out..it seems they are threaded in so I assume there not going to be pushed out by the 1/4 screws u screw in? Do you actually put a socket or alan wrench to those and turn them out?

Yes, the part that you are wanting to remove, is called a "helmet pin", or helmet "pivot pin"!
The two socket head cap screws must be removed.
The jack threads are there in the event that the pin becomes stubborn!

BTW, the length of the two caps screws is critical.... too long, and you'll breach the housing.


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Thanks again Ricardo for confirming and the advice. BTW I just bought a outdrive pressure/vacum tester off ebay..I see in past posts you approve of this item..ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Outdrive-Lo..._Accessories_Gear&hash=item3f226dd881&vxp=mtr

BTW, I should have posted this earlier.

Here's the pin and the two cap screws.



This pin fits into a recessed area, or "socket", within the transmission's front clamping collar on the Pre- A transmissions.



(seperate steel bearing box pre- A transmissions)


The "A" and later transmission clamping collar is integral with the main drive gear bearing box.



The helmet pin fit is indentical between the two.

As shown in either style above, these are the two threaded holes that are at risk if the wrong length cap screws are used.
(a screw that is too long will actually break through the aluminum casting)
This breach will allow water to enter the drive shaft and bellows area.

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That pressure/vacuum tester is by Tom Green. He's a good guy, and if you were to have any trouble, Tom will take care of you.

Be sure to drain the gear oil for the Pressure Leak Down test. The Vacuum test doesn't care.

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BTW, I should have posted this earlier.

Here's the pin and the two cap screws.
The two smaller threaded holes are the jack threads.



The pin fits into a shallow recessed area, or "socket", within the transmission's front clamping collar on the Pre- "A" transmissions.
(while this socket is rather shallow, we usually have to fight a bit of corrosion here when removing the two bolt helmet pin.... hence the "jack bolts")



(seperate steel bearing box pre- A transmissions)


The "A" and later transmission clamping collar is integral with the main drive gear bearing box.
The helmet pin fit is indentical between the two styles.





As shown in either style above, these are the two threaded holes that are at risk if the wrong length cap screws are used.
(a screw that is too long will actually break through the aluminum casting)
This breach will allow water to enter the drive shaft and bellows area.

***********************************

That pressure/vacuum tester is by Tom Green. He's a good guy, and if you were to have any trouble, Tom will take care of you.

Be sure to drain the gear oil for the Pressure Leak Down test. The Vacuum test doesn't care.


************************************

Unsolicited tip:

When removing an AQ series Volvo Penta drive, remove the transmission first, then disassemble or remove the other components if need be.

When going back together, install the Intermediate housing, suspension fork, etc, and the transmission last.


Often there's no need to remove the Intermediate or Suspension Fork comonents.
However, if there is a need, I still recommend the above.


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thanks for all the good info and avice Ricardo...VP really likes to over engieer their designs