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Volvo Penta 280 hard steering

My 1982 VP 5 litre with 280 outdrive steers hard. I disconnected the cable and the wheel turns easy and also the outdrive turns realtively easy by hand from outside the boat. However, together, it's a hard steering SOB. I'm thinking of installing hydraulic steering. The wierd thing is , I tested a larger boat with the same outdrive that had cable steering and two steering stations... it steered real easy (no power steering) Huh?
 
Ok, remove the cable and clean the steering tube. When you disconnected, did the steering helmet or any parts wiggle or seem loose? If any of the parts are loose they bind when not aligned right.You greasing the fitting on the helmet post(inside the boat) There is a fitting on the outside too. Changing to power steering is a big job and finding the parts is possible but a pain. Go to hydrolic steering, it will work as well if not better than power steering. Almost no maint. www. teleflex marine . com
 
If the drive turns freely with the cable disconnected and yet with the helmet still connected, you can rule out collar steering fork bushings and/or pivot tube issues.
As Jerry suggests, clean out the cable tube, and lube it.
If still stiff, then it may perhaps be a cable that's going bad.
If rack and pinion helm unit, it could be that the rack needs to be cleaned and greased.

Since you mention Hydraulic, and not power assist, you are on the right track.
I'll take Hydraulic over P/A any day.


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I can turn the Outdrive by hand, swinging it to either side from outside the boat. Seems to turn pretty free, doesnt take much effort. I dont see any looseness in any of the joints. I can feel a little "scraping" maybe as it nears end of rotation on either side.
 
I have acquired the special cylinder and a steering pump to convert to hydraulic (+$$!) but in a bit of a quandry why I should have to do that... especially after driving the dual station larger boat with dual cable steering... that thing steered like a dream.
 
I have acquired the special cylinder and a steering pump to convert to hydraulic (+$$!) but in a bit of a quandry why I should have to do that... especially after driving the dual station larger boat with dual cable steering... that thing steered like a dream.
I agree. This drive, if the trim fin/torque tab is adjusted correctly, does not need either Power Assist or Hydraulic steering.

Question: You mention "steering pump".
Are you talking about a hydraulic steering "helm wheel pump", or an engine belt driven power assist pump?

Apples/Orange in terms of the way that these work.


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I have the hydraulic steering "helm wheel pump". I'm just worried that I'm putting a band aid on something rather than fixing it. But not familiar enough with these outdrives/steering systems to know. Seems like it's pretty common to require some effort steering... no?
 
The hydraulic steering system would be an improvement over that of cable steering, no question about it.

However, depending on the system (i.e., 5 or 7 piston helm pump, cylinder diameter, and balanced -vs- non-balanced cylinder, etc) it won't necessarily make steering any less effort-some.

It will take most of the slack from the system, and it will eliminate most all steering feedback.

If you already have a complete system, and if you're up for the job, I doubt that you'd be disappointed with it.

I've never heard of anyone wanting to back from Hydraulic to cable.


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I have acquired the special cylinder and a steering pump to convert to hydraulic (+$$!) but in a bit of a quandry why I should have to do that... especially after driving the dual station larger boat with dual cable steering... that thing steered like a dream.
I found that many of the older Teleflex cables, especially the rack and pinion type, are ridiculously expensive. For me it wasn't all that much more money to go hydraulic. Granted I bought all the stuff cheap on Ebay and not from a dealer so it wasn't all that bad.
So before getting all jacked up over the expense of hydraulic, go price a new cable for your steering and be prepared for sticker shock.
One of the many benefits of hydraulic steering is that it can be reconfigured, added to and even moved to another boat if you wish. A cable only fits the application it is spec'd for. It's very easy to add GPS autopilot too.
 
The hydraulic steering system would be an improvement over that of cable steering, no question about it.

However, depending on the system (i.e., 5 or 7 piston helm pump, cylinder diameter, and balanced -vs- non-balanced cylinder, etc) it won't necessarily make steering any less effort-some.

It will take most of the slack from the system, and it will eliminate most all steering feedback.

If you already have a complete system, and if you're up for the job, I doubt that you'd be disappointed with it.

I've never heard of anyone wanting to back from Hydraulic to cable.


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I second that.
 
Something else to consider, the hydrolic will make it easier to turn but if there is a problem causing the hard turning?It's (hyd.steering)strong enough to break something. So make sure that what ever is causing the hard steering isn't something that's gonna break.
 
I've noticed that a longer steering arm seems to be common, mine has the short one. That could very wellvolvolongsteeerarm.jpgvolvoshortsteerarm.jpg be why. Not sure if the long one would fit with clearance in my installation.....
 
I've noticed that a longer steering arm seems to be common, mine has the short one. That could very well be why.

View attachment 6353View attachment 6354

Not sure if the long one would fit with clearance in my installation.....
Apples/Oranges, so to speak.

The short spindle arm is used in conjunction with a bell crank arm and linkage affair.
This gives the cable a leverage advantage that pretty much brings it back to what the long spindle arm offers.
(see attached photo also)






The long spindle arm is never used with the bell crank system, and makes a direct cable connection.




The end results, as far as ratio and leverage are concerned, are just about equal.

With a hydraulic steering cylinder, you can use the long spindle arm.
Either arm will fit the collar steering fork shaft and splines.

NOTE: The spindle arms have the lock to lock steering stops incorporated into them.
It is critical that it be indexed correctly to the collar steering fork splines.
One tiny spline off, and the drive will not articulate equally port to stbd.



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Yes , I have the bellcrank assembly on mine. However, sitting looking at it the other day, I couldnt logic out any ratio improvment with that assembly. If you notice, the pivot point on the bellcrank is approx equal both sides. Therefore no ratio improvement.... at least that what it looked like to me sitting there. ( i am an engineer so usually can logic this stuff out..!)
 
The bell crank arm, and what I'll the "drag link" portion, have several points of attachment that will vary the ratio.
For what it's worth, the later drives went back to the single spindle arm, and have two points of attachment to vary the ratio.

You'll have two options for Hydraulic steering:
1... a special cylinder that runs through the equivilant of the cable tube, and attaches to the drag link part.
2... a standard cylinder attaches to the transom, and to the long spindle arm.

Any variation can be done with the helm pump volume (5 or 7 pistons) and with the diameter of the cylinder bore.

Then of course you've got Balanced -vs- Non-Balanced cylinders.



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Thanks mucho for all your help. I already have the cylinder that is specified for this unit. Need to figure out how the mounting works.. not immediately aparent, and cant find a pic online.... pretty rare I guess. I need to get it out and get in the boat and peruse it....
 
Ihave dual 5.7 with 280s with hydraulic steering with a power assist ram that does not work. With the ram disconected and both drives seperated mechanically it is difficult to move either drive by hand. possible problems?
 
Stracy,you should start another thread. But yes there is a problem. No lube?There is a grease fitting on the inside and the outside of the drive. Profile? Location? Salt/fresh water?? I had a 32 with twin 280 drives.It sat for a long time in salt/brackish water(Chesapeake Bay) the corrosion worked it's way inside the turn points.I had to disassemble the whole steering system and redo all the bushings. This outfit had no power steering or hyd.It woked very smooth,once it was fixed.
 
Agree! Start a new thread for your specific issue.


Meanwhile, this is basically what happens.

The aluminum components are un-painted.... (I.E., the two bushing bores and the fork shaft itself).
The shaft OD and bushing ID surfaces are intended to receive lubrication.... but seldom do!
The OD of the bushings have little water protection, other than the V-ring seal.
When exposed to water, and especially salt water, the aluminum corrodes.
As the aluminum corrodes, the corrosion crystallizes and expands and causes the bushings to contract on the steering fork shaft. This can cause tremendous resistance against normal turning.
Likewise if the shaft itself corrodes, it too becomes stiff within the bushings.

Short of excessive bushing wear, often the removal, cleaning, and re-installation is all required to regain perfectly easy steering.
However, we'd be rather foolish to NOT replace the bushings and V-ring seal while in there.

When you test this (as to determine where the restriction is), be sure to remove the steering cable from the spindle arm, or the power assist cylinder from the spindle arm, and allow the drive to articulate with these out of the loop, so to speak.
 

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