Ford 351 W - Engine rotation change

I have a 351W LH rotation- I would like to change to RH rotation- Other than the starter motor and firing order what other engine components need to be changed? I would appreciate any help, Thanks

Assuming you are rebuilding at the same time, an awful lot depends upon whos parts you select. Most (stock style) pistons will be zero offset so they shouldn't need to be reversed like on a GM. You will need a reverse grind camshaft and a drive that matches...most use the standard chain drive...and the distributor drive will have to match the gear on the cam. The water pump may be ok if it has the 'straight' bidirectional impeller in it. You'll also have to check the crank's rear seal face for 'hash marks'. Fan on the alternator may also need to be changed.

best bet is to use a machinist that understands what a "marine engine" is and has experience with them...ask and if there's any hesitation visit another shop.

This all sounds like good advice, I think I'll take it, Thank you very much!

You're quite welcome & good luck

Both rear and front seals need to be correct for RH rotation!

Mark, are you certain about the wrist pin offset on the Windsor engine?
Here's a 5.8L Windsor piston. Note the arrow.



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Depends upon the pistons selected...that's why consulting with the machinist was suggested....better to plan things out to ensure they work together as intended than to have to try bandaids and waste time.

Mark, good point!

BTW, I have a pair of '93 Volvo Penta 5.8L cylinder heads that have 6 hrs. on them.
They were installed on a Volvo Penta 5.8L, only to learn later that the bottom end was in need of an over-haul.
I picked them up for use on my son's 5.8L, and ended up not using them.
I would love to find them good home.


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I have done this. The only problem I had was a leaky rear seal. During the initial buildup, I installed a speedy sleeve over the crank hash marks. Evidently, this made the seal "too tight" as it was failing after a short time. I tried both left and right seals, both failed in rapid succession. After consulting with a crankshaft shop, it was suggested to machine off the hash marks and use the right hand seal (as I recall, about .020") Did this and it worked. I did not use a right hand timing cover seal, but in my Century Resorter, the engine is at a significant angle. BTW, I did have to change the oil pan to a rear sump. (I started with an auto engine). 10 years on the engine now, with the last 7 drip free.

shuffster said:

I have done this. The only problem I had was a leaky rear seal. During the initial buildup, I installed a speedy sleeve over the crank hash marks. Evidently, this made the seal "too tight" as it was failing after a short time. I tried both left and right seals, both failed in rapid succession. After consulting with a crankshaft shop, it was suggested to machine off the hash marks and use the right hand seal (as I recall, about .020") Did this and it worked. I did not use a right hand timing cover seal, but in my Century Resorter, the engine is at a significant angle. BTW, I did have to change the oil pan to a rear sump. (I started with an auto engine). 10 years on the engine now, with the last 7 drip free.View attachment 6325

Click to expand...

Thanks a million, good to know, I'm delighted that your boat is Ford powered, I bet it's pretty quick with the 351, bye the way, damn nice boat!