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What exactly do I have here on my new boat?

did you cut any holes and check out the floatation foam before laying more plywood on?

If you have the new ply and carpet down already, I wouldn't do much about it - go boating and see if the rig works well. Pull the floor up in a few years and excavate out the rotten wood and any waterlogged foam.
 
footbrake said:
Here's some pics of the floor going in
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Methinks it would have been easier to open up the floor and repair rather than cover it up. However, boats like this one are often not worth the bother especially if there is more rot elsewhere. You can tell if the hull is well built by looking in the motor well area. Is there exposed wood on the stringers or anywhere else? How thick is the tabbing? Stuff like that is important because it tells you whether the hull was built in a quality way or just chop gunned into a mold as fast as it could be done.
 
The posters geographical living arangement has nothing to do with it.

The OP doesn't know what he's got, you know someone who will work on it, so all he has to do is simply jerk it out, box it up, and FedEx it off somewhere. Can't imagine why that contribution didn't come immediately to mind, but I've only a few posts so what do I know ... :(
 
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Russ, it certainly does look as though it's been well taken care of!
If she runs as well as she looks, you may have a great little boat there! :D


footbrake said:
Also there was a soft spot in the floor right in front of the motor cover. On advise from some boat repair places on an older boat like this, instead of opening up the floor and opening a can of worms, we covered the floor in 3/4'' plywood and put a new rug in. Here are some shots of it. Thanks for all the help guys -Russ
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Russ, IMO this was poor advice for a shop to be offering.

If the floatation has absorbed water (which it very likely has.... garaged or not garaged), it should have been removed.
It will hold weight that will affect the hull's performance, and the water may further damage other portions of the hull.


On these older hulls, and after the foam has been removed and the deck has been repaired, often small deck plates are strategically placed as to provide ventilation to these areas.



After an outing the plates are opened and are left open until the next outing.


.
 
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Why didnt you put in Marine Ply??? Its LOADS lighter. Unless you coated that ply in Marine Resin, it WILL delaminate, and separate by the end of next season !!!!!
Bad move (in MY opinion ONLY).
 
Marine plywood is a fully plugged micro-lam lay-up, and should also be Fir wood for best results.
Given the same thickness, it will very likely not be any ligher in weight than CDX plywood, in fact, it is often heavier.

Applying resin to a plywood surface is pretty much moot unless fabric is also applied. Just plain resin will fisher.

Just my two cents on that.



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Looks like you are putting your heart in this project, good luck and don`t pay too much attention to these guys bickering on this forum they seem to do it a lot.
 
RicardoMarine said:
Marine plywood is a fully plugged micro-lam lay-up, and should also be Fir wood for best results.
Given the same thickness, it will very likely not be any ligher in weight than CDX plywood, in fact, it is often heavier.

Applying resin to a plywood surface is pretty much moot unless fabric is also applied. Just plain resin will fisher.

Just my two cents on that.


Sorry, but it IS ...WAY lighter than regular Ply. When I re-did the floors in my old tub, I compared the weight of a standard 4X8, 1/2 inch thick sheet with the same in Marine Ply.

I could lift the Marine FULL 4X8 sheet with ONE hand, with little effort. Standard Ply took 2 hands.

Just MY .02
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