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1975 Evinrude 25hp No Spark

55bigtwin

New member
Hi Guys, new turf here, up until now my newest J/E outboard has been 1966. I picked up a '75 25hp Evinrude mod # 25502B, S/N E00026xx. Looks like it's been sitting around quite awhile. Preliminary inication is no spark. Of course the coils are out side the flywheel, don't look cracked. Should I assume it's the coils and just repalce 'em? Are there points anywhere? Where's a good place to start? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks-Craig
 
There are points under the flywheel on a 75.
Quite probable that the issue is points related. Two coils don't generally fail at the same time. but it could be coils.

When you have the flywheel off, you can also tie a washer to a string to check to see if the permanent magnets in the flywheel are still strong.

Replacing and setting the points most likely remedy.

Don't forget the kill switch though. Before pulling flywheel, you can try pulling it over after disconnecting the kill switch and check for spark.
 
While I'm at it...of course the skeg is broken off, I wouldn't suppose, that the one off my '54 RD-15 parts motor would fit, it looks very similar...any ideas there? thanks...
 
...I knew that was wishful thinking, I just missed a very similar mid '70's, intact 25hp on Craig's list for $100. I'll keep looking, Thanks
 
there are lots of 18/20/25's out there. Keep an eye out for one late 60's to 1976 with a decent looking lower - of course you won't know if it's good until you put it under load, but there are quite a few around -seized - missing tillers etc. in the $100 range typically.
 
Finally got a chance to check it out a little more, pulled the flywheel, ran file through points, I do have spark in one cyl. now. And after a little more cleaning I think I see a crack in one coil. I also notice a coil of some sort under the flywheel, is this something that should typically be replaced? And it is definately has no electric start...Also I'm not really familiar with the fuel pumps, (most of my old motors are pressure tank type), should I always plan to rebuild or replace it, and which would be recomended? Thanks
 
BTW, I see in the above parts section, that there are multible coils offered, for both, the driver coil and the outboard coils, with rather extreme price differences for each, $20. to $38.. Are they supposed to be the same application, or am I supposed to know which ones I need? Thanks
 
If you have spark on one cylinder then the driver coil is good.-----------Clean both sets of points !-----By " clean " we mean absolutely clean , no dirt or oil of any kind allowed on them.---Might be best to remove them for cleaning.
 
If you have spark on one cylinder then the driver coil is good.-----------Clean both sets of points !-----By " clean " we mean absolutely clean , no dirt or oil of any kind allowed on them.---Might be best to remove them for cleaning.
That sounds good, I guess I will change one coil at a time to keep the cost down, at least until I see how the rest is gonna work...Thanks for the reply
 
I usually do change the points and condensors, once I establish if it's worth running, or just another parts motor
Thanks much for the replies...
 
you said your skeg is broke off? after you figure out your electrical problem your gonna wanna check your gearcase(gears,bearings,prop shaft etc...) and driveshaft for damage. it had to have hit something pretty hard to tear off the skeg and if thats how it broke off id bet you bent your driveshaft and damaged the gearcase components. even a very small bend in the driveshaft will cause you a lot of problems and money if you run with a bent driveshaft....just thought id mention it in case you havent already checked and or fixed it.
 
Finally got a chance to check it out a little more, pulled the flywheel, ran file through points, I do have spark in one cyl. now. And after a little more cleaning I think I see a crack in one coil.

If you want to determine if that cracked coil is causing the loss of spark in the one cylinder you can just swap the clips going to the coil and if the other cylinder now has no spark then you were correct in thinking it was the coil. If the problem stays with the cylinder, the problem is obviously up in the flywheel again.
 
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