2002 225HP Trim and Tilt

Hi All,

I recently removed the engine from the boat to have some work done on the transom.

I removed the engine and lowered it onto a pallet so that it lay with the bracket facing upwards. I then used the oppurtunity to check all the bushes etc on the tilt tube.

THe engine lay for about 6 weeks before I put it on last week.

I noticed today in the workshop manual however that the trim tilt should always be stored upright and I am concerned that mine was not as it naturally lay on a slight angle so that motor was lower than the pistons.

What damage could this have caused...?

I wouldn't take my answer as the definitive one since I've never worked on this trim unit. But, as a guess, I would say that you should have no problems IF....

IF the seals for the motor housing are good. The motor armature and brushes are sealed from the hydraulic pump and IF the seals are ok then I would suspect that no oil "migrated" into the housing. If the seals are not ok, it was going to happen eventually anyway. Oil entering the motor will destroy the brushes and the adhesive that holds the pole magnets in place.

And...IF you allow it to sit in it's normal position long enough so that any oil that moved into the reservoir and got displaced by some air has a chance to drain back down into the pump and displace the air back to the reservoir.

Even if it did have some fluid movement and a bit of air exchange within the pump, that should work itself out with a few piston strokes. I have found that when rebuilding them that it can be a real pain to purge all the air out of the pump. But that is after a drain and refill. If it acts a bit funny when you first start using it, don't be alarmed since that is most likely what is happening and you just need to be patient and work the unit until the air is moved.

Ditto on the advice from Jimmy. The one time I had to replace my t/t motor, the shaft seal failed from normal use, allowing hydraulic fluid to get to the brushes and generally gumming up the whole inside of the motor. By the way, there is a $150 ATI equivalent to the $500 Honda motor if you need to replace.

To purge air out of the system, take it all the way up and lock with the manual lock lug. Top off the reservoir. Then unlock the lug, and use the manual valve on the left to slowly lower the engine. Let it sit for 5 minutes or so to allow the air to migrate to the top. Raise the engine again, lock, and top off hydraulic reservoir again. Repeat until it won't take any more hydraulic fluid. If fluid is really low, you made need to use a come-a-long, or other method to manually lift the motor the first time or so. If you do need to lift it manually, make sure that the manual valve is open. Then close it before adding the hydraulic fluid. After you have topped it off, let it sit for a day or so, then check the hydraulic fluid again. Sometimes it takes quite a while to purge all the air out of the system.

One additional thing to consider before firing up the motor. It you had motor oil in the engine when you laid it down, it has probably made its way to the cylinders by now...since you are supposed to remove the oil before you lay that Honda down.

Pull the spark plugs and crank the engine to be sure that the oil is cleared out of the cylinders otherwise, the engine may lock up when you crank it.

Mike

hondadude said:

One additional thing to consider before firing up the motor. It you had motor oil in the engine when you laid it down, it has probably made its way to the cylinders by now...since you are supposed to remove the oil before you lay that Honda down.

Pull the spark plugs and crank the engine to be sure that the oil is cleared out of the cylinders otherwise, the engine may lock up when you crank it.

Mike

Click to expand...

Thanks Mike,

Oil was drained before removing the engine.