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repowering a volvo duoprop

guppy

Regular Contributor
First time posting. Not completlely new to boats but still a novice at it. My question is how to connect nuetral safety from a volvo duoprop outdrive to a 2004 5.7 marinepower mpi? Can i just use switch at controls or do I need to use the yellow wires from the computer? Came into this project with motor already installed. 10 pin was adapted already with new connector. Need to know if not using these 2 wires will the computer work correctly?Everything seems to work correctly but havent stareted yet due to some minor plumbing issues with heat exchanger and remote oill filter location. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank yiu
 
Are you using brand new controls that were provided with this new engine?

The typical neutral safety switch interrupts the key switch starter motor solenoid circuit.
When the lever would be in the neutral position, this switch would close completing the circuit.
Visa-versa if the lever was to be in a position that would normally invoke a gear selection.

This should be relatively simple if you can connect it so that the solenoid circuit must be completed via this switch.


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Talked to marinepower tech line. Said I could splice together wires from computer nuetral harness and just use switch at controls. Using existing control at helm so just conncet switch there. Besides full fluid and filter change,impellor and coolant for heat exchanger what else would you recommend changing? Motor sat on a pallet for 4 years inside a shop and reads 120 hrs, ran fine owner swithed to diesels. Thanks for the reply
 
Besides full fluid and filter change, impellor and coolant for heat exchanger what else would you recommend changing? Motor sat on a pallet for 4 years inside a shop and reads 120 hrs, ran fine owner swithed to diesels. Thanks for the reply
If this engine had been properly put away, the oil and filter would have been changed prior.
Look at the color. If it's clean and with no discoloration, run it!

And again... if put away properly, it would have been fuel enriched protected, since we do not "fog" an MPI engine in the conventional method. Hopefully, the MPI system has survived the 4 years storage.

If concerned with the cylinder walls, find a way to oil wet the ring landings and cylinder walls.
FYI: oiling V-8 cylinders does not accomplish what many think that it does due to the cylinder wall angle.
IOW, gravity causes the oil to roll off the piston decks and it ends up at the low side of the ring landings. So we end up wetting only a small portion of the cylinder walls.
Perhaps try a spray oil via the spark plug ports......., or blast a mist of oil into the cylinders via shop air pressure before you roll it over.

Definitely change the impeller out.
Sitting as rest within the pump body for this long has surely caused it to loose vane resiliency.
Pull the impeller during your next winter lay up..... you'll be surprised at how much longer one will last.

As for the coolant, use an Ethylene Glycol PH balance test strip.
If the PH is OK, run it! If not, change it!

I'd also change out the H/E pencil anode.... or at least examine it.


Have fun!


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Thanks for all the helpfull information. Tripple checked all wiring, gauges,primed oil pump 60psi, primed fuel system with fresh fuel and 50:1 ratio,new impellor, coolant turned key and started right up only to develop new problem. Who ever installed the risers messed up the gaskets so bad it shoots water across the boat, both sides.Damn it! Now the question of the day, how do i find the correct gaskets since I dont know what engine was in it other than a volvo? Using complete volvo exhaust since small block chevy is a small block chevy, manifolds bolted up. 1989 boat with a duoprop with a v8. Thats all i got to work with and i brain farted ang forgot to grab riser when I left. 80 mile round trip, oooppps! Any advice on this part of repower would really be nice. Thanks in advance.
 
There was a change to the GM V-8 Volvo Penta exhaust manifolds during the 90's.
Keep in mind that the AQ series drives ran right along side of the SX and DP-S Gimbal system drives into the 90s...... 1996 I believe.

Can you post photos of your engine for us???



If early style, your manifolds and risers (aka elbows) will look like these. The riser outlet diameter will be 95mm.

vo-1-835804-kit.jpg






If later style, your manifolds and elbows will look like these.

BPISBVL.jpg


If your flywheel cover is this style, you'll have an AQ series drive.
10913.jpg


If this style w/ rubber hub drive coupler, you'll have a Gimbal system drive.


140.jpg


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Thanks for the reply Rick you have been very helpfull. It is an aq series outdrive and I was able to locally source a set volvo riser gasket from a local shop who is still willing to help with out charging every time. Waiting on marine power so I can get correct cover for top of engine, although still have some detail work to do. start and runs great with no leaks. Need to source a flame arrester that bolts on to the 3 coupling nuts on the throttlebody, somebody cut the original down for some reason and the linkage hits or sticks open, not good. Will try to post some pictures when completed, taking week off from project to visit mom on 75th birthday,moms are always more important than boats. Cant wait to run in actual water to see how it does, does anybody happen to know wot on this engine. 2004 mpi 5.7 marinepower,want to make sure not over or under proped.
 
FYI: depending on which AQ series flywheel cover, your flywheel size will need to be a correct match.
If your flywheel cover is charcoal gray, then you may be able to use the 163 tooth flywheel... very common.
If instead it is red......, you'll need the smaller 153 tooth flywheel...... this one is a Camero car application.

Starter motors are different for each.

What evey you do...... be sure to replace the PDS bearing(s).


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