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Spark Plugs

boats195

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Got a question for you professionals out there. I own a 2008 Bayliner 195 with the 4.3 TKS engine. My question is how do you replace the spark plugs on the starboard side of the engine ? The port side looks like a piece of cake however the starboard side is another story. Just no room at all to manuever. There must be some trick or something to get this done just not seeing it yet. Any help would sure be appreciated. Trying to fog the cylinders prior to winter setting in then changing them out in the spring. Thanks all
 
Spraying fogging oil into the cylinders via the spark plug ports is not fogging, IMO. Well, let me clarify that..... at least not in my book!
IMO, that is more in line with what I'd call a weak form of "Pickling", and it really isn't even pickling!

Fogging is done dynamically, not statically.
Since the V engine cylinders are not perpendicular (vertical), any oil sprayed into the cylinder will have a tendency to pool at the low side of the piston ring landings. When you turn it over, only the lower side of the cylinder walls will be wiped with oil.
Add any piston negative dish volume, and this becomes even less effective.
Quite frankly, this method does little to protect valves and/or valve stems as well.

If you want to actually Fog this engine, do it while running it (i.e., dynamically) at approximately 1,200 rpm.
You can properly Fog an engine in about 10 seconds of run time.
Have a helper hold engine speed while you Fog.
Ask the helper to cut the Ignition while you continue Fogging (no change to throttle opening) until the rotating mass comes to rest.
This way combustion is not burning the last bit of the fogging solution.

If you want to gain a more ultimate method of fogging, pull your sea water pump impeller, and do this while operating minus sea water.
We're talking about a 10 second dry start only.
This additionally blows any residual water from your exhaust system.
I've been using this method for longer than I can remember...... and with no issues what-so-ever, to date.

The 4.3L also uses a dual plane intake manifold. This means that an equal amount of fogging solution must be sprayed into each plane (i.e., each primary throttle bore).
If we miss one plane, we may also miss 3 cylinders.

In my book, that's Fogging. ;)


Sorry... can't help you on the spark plug removal!




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Spraying fogging oil into the cylinders via the spark plug ports is not fogging, IMO. Well, let me clarify that..... at least not in my book!
IMO, that is more in line with what I'd call a weak form of "Pickling", and it really isn't even pickling!

Fogging is done dynamically, not statically.
Since the V engine cylinders are not perpendicular (vertical), any oil sprayed into the cylinder will have a tendency to pool at the low side of the piston ring landings. When you turn it over, only the lower side of the cylinder walls will be wiped with oil.
Add any piston negative dish volume, and this becomes even less effective.
Quite frankly, this method does little to protect valves and/or valve stems as well.

If you want to actually Fog this engine, do it while running it (i.e., dynamically) at approximately 1,200 rpm.
You can properly Fog an engine in about 10 seconds of run time.
Have a helper hold engine speed while you Fog.
Ask the helper to cut the Ignition while you continue Fogging (no change to throttle opening) until the rotating mass comes to rest.
This way combustion is not burning the last bit of the fogging solution.

If you want to gain a more ultimate method of fogging, pull your sea water pump impeller, and do this while operating minus sea water.
We're talking about a 10 second dry start only.
This additionally blows any residual water from your exhaust system.
I've been using this method for longer than I can remember...... and with no issues what-so-ever, to date.

The 4.3L also uses a dual plane intake manifold. This means that an equal amount of fogging solution must be sprayed into each plane (i.e., each primary throttle bore).
If we miss one plane, we may also miss 3 cylinders.

In my book, that's Fogging. ;)


Sorry... can't help you on the spark plug removal!

Thanks for the help appreciate it. I normally just use fogging oil when the engine is running and keep spraying it until the engine quits. However, this year i planned on changing the plugs anyway so i thought i might give each cylinder a good squirt or two. I bought the boat new in 2008 and those are still the original plugs. Anyway im kind of a maintenance nut, i enjoy that kind of work.
 
Not that I have tried this, but when I was discussing the problem I was having with removing the spark plugs in a recently purchased 305 chev MCM228 with a local marine dealer, the use of a litre of 2 stroke oil to fog was given. The removal of the spark plugs from this 1984 engine (who knows how long they have been in there) is one of the problems I have. I worry about snapping the neck off..
 
Not that I have tried this, but when I was discussing the problem I was having with removing the spark plugs in a recently purchased 305 chev MCM228 with a local marine dealer, the use of a litre of 2 stroke oil to fog was given. The removal of the spark plugs from this 1984 engine (who knows how long they have been in there) is one of the problems I have. I worry about snapping the neck off..

Heat can be your friend!
Warm the engine up prior to removing the spark plugs!





Again....... fogging when done correctly is to be done above idle rpm..... let's say 1,200 rpm.
The duration need not be more than 10 seconds or so!

The "key" is to reach both intake manifold planes equally (as to reach all cylinders), an to NOT allow the fogging solution to undergo combustion during the last few rotating assembly revolutions.

In order to achieve this, the ignition source is cut while the fogging solution is still being introduced!
During the last few revolutions, the non-combusted solution is better able to coat the cylinder walls, etc.

Once fogged, we do not restart or roll the engine over until recommissioning in spring time.




Note: fogging is not performed in this fashion on an FI engine due to the air sensing circuits.



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Thanks everyone. I actually had to cut a small round hole in my fiberglass under the stern seat next to the engine on the starboard side to have access to my engine spark plugs. It is actually very convenient and I can replace all three plugs on that side in a matter of minutes now. That was always my original problem no access to those plugs at all unless I took of my riser and exhaust manifold off, I think I took the easy way out. Thanks again.
 
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