I run 10 gallons of pink antifreeze through a warm engine and then pull the drain plugs (after shutting down the engine).
Bingo!
Plain old AIR won't freeze, expand and crack our expensive cast iron components!
JJDebeers said:
It's actually very easy, Ricky. I just pull the plug on the ignition coil while continuing to spray fogging oil down the carb. Now that's multi-tasking!
1... My only problem
is getting to the coil wire after I start it.
2... It seems as soon as I start it it sucks up five gallons of antifreeze in about six seconds
so I'm afraid to move from the fly bridge to the motors in fear that it will run dry.
1... Pulling the coil wire leaves the high tension side with nowhere to discharge the stored energy.
Some will suggest that this may damage an ignition coil.
You might be better off to rig a remote method that actually cuts power to your ignition system.
Your call on that!
2... I think that we're worried about nothing here!
If you were to run out of antifreeze while doing this, the engine circulating pump becomes starved of any antifreeze.
If the circ pump were to become starved, no more antifreeze is being pushed into the engine block.
If no more antifreeze is being pushed into the engine block..... there's no risk what-so-ever of any antifreeze being pushed out of the engine block.
That's just the physics of Hydraulics!
The antifreeze offers enough lubricating properties to protect the sea water pump impeller, should it end up operating for several more seconds while you turn the ignition off..... and the circulating pump can certainly withstand a few seconds of no lubrication!
IMO, these concerns are moot, if we're talking about a few seconds only!
Running the exhaust "dry" for several seconds is also a non-issue, IMO.
In fact, it can be an added benefit!
As I've mentioned, my impellers have already been removed during my last start-up and 8 to 10 second dry-start for the fogging procedure.
I end up blowing out my exhaust during the process!
Two birds with one single stone!
Although I don't care for the idea of leaving this potentially diluted antifreeze in an engine block for the winter....., if this is your goal, I think that you have achieved it.
Completely draining the block, re-installing the plugs, and then using the thermostat port for your antifreeze entry point, ensures that the antifreeze does not become diluted by any residual sea water.
Whereas with the Raw Water Cooled Engine's T-stat housing "by-pass porting", there is a much greater risk of dilution.
Your call!
.
