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Need BF8A Water Pump Instructions

M

Mudslide

New member
New to the forum.
I changed the water pump on my 2000 8hp Honda but the linkage is now out of alignment. Does anyone have printed instructions on how to do this properly? I understand you need to take the top end apart and count the turns. I just pulled the leg out and undid it when it was exposed. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Going Salmon fishing next weekend and need the motor running properly.
Thanks
Mud
 
Not sure exactly what you mean when you say; "I just pulled the leg out and undid it when it was exposed."

Undid what? The water pump? The shift shaft?

The shift shaft was intended to be disconnected before unbolting the extension case so that the case and rod come away from the powerhead together for water pump maintenance.

The adjustment is pretty simple. You have to obtain a "free pin fit" for the clevis when the shift selector is in neutral and the trans is in neutral. You do this by turning the "shift rod joint", up or down on the shift rod. See item # 3 in the link below

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/2000/BF8AY SA /EXTENSION CASE/parts.html

However, if you yanked or twisted too hard on the shift rod and bent it because you did not disconnect it prior to lowering the extension case, then I'm not sure how easy it will be to get a good adjustment, if at all. You might need to straighten it back out if that is what happened.
 
Thanks for your response. I just dropped the leg and disconnected the nut on the top of the shaft when it was exposed in the gap half way down. I don't think I bent it. Afterward a mechanic explained to me that i should have taken all the stuff off the top end before dropping the leg and counted the amount of turns as i disconnected it. I have to say that seems really hard to do and a really overly complicated design. I am looking to adjust the shift lever so that it shifts properly and it seems i need to take all the stuff off to do that. Looking for a simple explanation of how to go about that with some sort of illustration. Thanks in advance.
Mud
 
Well, I don't have the documentation that you want. I have the book for earlier stuff, which is very similar to yours and I have the book for later model stuff which is in no way similar. I bought the book first and then did the work so I have no experience with what you just did. I would not have guessed that you could get to the nut by unbolting the case and going through the "gap". I'm assuming that is how you pulled the pin too?

I have never had to take anything off of one of the older ones to get the pin out and take the nut off. Some guys here say to take the carburetor off to make it easier but I don't do it. I guess yours may be different than the ones I'm used to.

I recommend that you get the service manual if you're going to be doing all your own work. You can find the best one available at the link below. It is the only manual I would recommend that you buy. Stay away from Seloc, Haynes, Clymer. They are not very good. The Helm is worth the money and that advice holds true from most of the "helpers" on this site.
http://www.helminc.com/helm/Result....=&Category=1&Keyword=&Module=&selected_media=

You might try this and see if it works:

There is a NOTE: in my book that says if you lose the adjustment, that the holes will usually align if you put the gearcase in forward gear, shift the lever to forward and then thread the shift rod joint all the way down and then back it off 4 1/2 turns.

My thoughts on this are, that if it will align in forward then it will probably align in neutral AND reverse as well. Just make sure the gear case condition matches the shift lever position when you try.

Good luck.
 
Mudslide said:
Thanks for your response. I just dropped the leg and disconnected the nut on the top of the shaft when it was exposed in the gap half way down. I don't think I bent it. Afterward a mechanic explained to me that i should have taken all the stuff off the top end before dropping the leg and counted the amount of turns as i disconnected it. I have to say that seems really hard to do and a really overly complicated design. I am looking to adjust the shift lever so that it shifts properly and it seems i need to take all the stuff off to do that. Looking for a simple explanation of how to go about that with some sort of illustration. Thanks in advance.
Mud
Click to expand...

Hi, I have exactly the same problem with my motor, but I can not locate a nut on the top of the shaft. The gap only exposes the rod grommet (part 4) which is rubber and tight into the housing. Above the grommet is no nut that I could loosen, I just see a rod. Do I need to loosen anything on the gear handle side before I can see any nuts? I watched videos but my gap area looks somewhat different. My motor is not "peeing" and I cleaned already the pee hose, that was plugged. Had the water pump housing open (with leg extension still connected) and it looked good. Any advise?
 
BoatDoctor,

Not to be a buzzkill but I recommend that you start a new thread. This one is about 5 years old. A new thread gets MANY more people reading your post and a big increase in the chances that someone will have a good solution for you.

Also, try to include as much info as possible. Such as the year and model along with the frame number. Those things really count when trying to sort through your problem.

Welcome aboard the forum.

JimmyD
 
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