Logo

Getting an older 55HP outboard running.

brslk

New member
I recently traded an old quad for an old 14' boat with a 55 HP Chrysler outboard and trailer.
The battery was dead when I got it and I let it charge overnight.
It turns over pretty good now and there is spark. Not too sure how strong of spark as I had the wife look while I turned it over.
It's getting fuel to the carb. I know this because I disconnected the hose from the carb and turned the engine over and fuel pumped out.
The motor will turn over but it doesnt seem to want to start.

it's a 558BC series 3004
the serial number appears to be F36928
There is the number 311 stamped into the head
and the carb is a Tillotson.

IMG_2538.jpg

IMG_2574.jpg

IMG_2573.jpg

IMG_2572.jpg

IMG_2571.jpg


Of course it was the usual story of "it ran last year when I parked it".
Any tips or ideas would be much appreciated.

I can provide more pics if required.

Thanks in advance,
Bruce.
 
You using the choke when trying to start?
Start procedures:
Pump ball.
Advance the cold start throttle.(silver button on shifter,pull out and push throttle all the way forward).
Turn key,while turning,push in key to activate choke.
Not trying to say your dumb,just don't know if you know this way??
Then if that don't help,do a compression test.
Make sure the gas is getting to the piston?
Clean the carb and make sure the float isin't stuck?
Then if all elce fails a little bit of starting fluid.Not too much as it strips the oil from the cylinders and bearings.
Sometimes tilting the motor all the way up will make the carb work.
Tilt it and try to start,when it coughs or bucks or starts,shut it off and lower it then start.
 
Thanks for the advice Jerry.
The choke is not working at the moment but I did try it while manually activated.
Already did a comression test and compression was withing spec on both cylinders and only differed about 3 psi between them.
I already removed the carb and cleaned it. It is VERY clean. Almost like it had recently been rebuilt or cleaned.
I know it's getting fuel to the carb but I'll have to check to see it's making its way into the cylinder. (how would I do that?)
I will give the tilt idea a try this weekend.

Thanks again for the help.

Bruce.
 
Check the plug for gas/oil.

The new fuel with ethanol is messing with the older carbs and such.
It's possible the needle/seat is sticking??
I clean the carbs with soap and water,rince with fresh water,blow dry and don't use WD or any lube.
But make sure it gets gas/oil soon??
 
Pretty sure the fuel pump is defective. No fuel getting to the pistons. I pulled the fuel hose off the fuel pump and turned it over... nothing.
I had thought gas was getting to the carb but now I realize that was just from pumping the primer bulb.
Now the question is where to get a new fuel pump?

Bruce.
 
Here are some pics of the fuel pump.
IMG_2577.jpg

IMG_2576.jpg

IMG_2575.jpg


and one of the carb.
IMG_2578.jpg


I cant seem to find any info or rebuild kits for the pump anywhere online.

Bruce.
 
Sent an email to Franz and he got back to me within minutes. Pretty impressive for a Saturday evening.
I think he will be able to help me out with what I need.

Thanks for the help Jerry. I'll update this thread as I proceed.

Bruce.
 
Glad to help!!
Remember when you get it running, make sure the air screw(top front of carb) is set right.
Base setting,one turn out from bottom.
Then when warm,turn in till it coughs,sputters,stalls then back out 1/2 turn.
Any further either way can cause piston damage.
 
I pulled the fuel pump today and removed the cover
IMG_2579.jpg

IMG_2580.jpg


It doesnt look to bad. No cracks or anything but it is pretty stretched out and soft (thin).
I tested the check valves with compressed air in a can and they see to do just what they are designed to do.
IMG_2582.jpg


I think a large part of the problem is with these two hoses. They fit very loosely and have no clamps on the ends.
They pulled off the pump quite easily and I can spin them on the engine with ease.
I'll be replacing them when I put the pump back on.
IMG_2584.jpg


I also managed to download and print a repair manual.
IMG_2585.jpg


I'll be ordering the diaphragm, gaskets and new screen for the pump as well as a new bowl gasket for the carb from Franz on Monday.

Setting up this carb should be a lot easier than this set was after rebuilding them.
IMG_2581.jpg

IMG_2583.jpg


Bruce.
 
Last edited:
Go to i boats . com Force/Chrysler forum.
First or second post,there is a link to a procedure called a linc and sinc by FrankA
Try that when setting up the carb.
The diaphram is real skinny.But streched isin't good.

The new gas were using has Ethanol in it.It melting older hoses and causing trouble.
Just to make sure get E resistant hoses and use that.
I use wire ties to secure hoses,cheap,easy.
 
I went to pick up new hoses but no one seems to know anything about ethanol resistant hoses.
Hopefully the parts I ordered from Franz will be here soon.
Bruce.
 
Try ACE Hadware.
The regular lines will work for a while but will eventually succumb to it.

They using Ethanol up there??
As far north as you are,has it snowed yet???
Went through there a few years ago on the way to Anchorage.
BEAUTIFUL country. Saw a grey wolf on the side of the road,most beautiful animal I have ever seen.
It was eating some road kill.
Canada is amazing,the animals and scenery!!!
 
No ACE hardware stores here. I did manage to find some at NAPA.
I changed the hoses to the top of the pump (vacuum?) and added clamps.
Nice and snug now.
I went to change the line from the pump to the carb and it is a different size so, back
to NAPA tomorrow.
IMG_2624.jpg

IMG_2623.jpg

IMG_2622.jpg


So ive got about 8 feet of 1/4" ethanol resistant fuel line left over.

No, it hasn't snowed here yet. Probably not till mid October.
It's still shorts and t-shirt weather.
There is some beautiful scenery here but there is also a lot of that on your side of the border.
The wife and I drove from here to California all along the west coast.
We loved Oregon!

Eagerly awaiting the parts from Franz.

Bruce.
 
Yup oregon is one of my favorites too.
The coast is amazing.
I'm thnking of getting my stuff together and going there next year to prospect for gold.
Then again,I just might get a different boat and go island hopping???

Use the rest of the hose to change the hoses on the truck/car.

I have a Ford pick up,it went from bad gas mileage to f$%^& horrible.
Turns out the return line was eat'n up from ethanol.
It was pumping out gas everytime I ran it.

The fuel pump went bad($200) and I had to pull the tank.
Turns out it was 2 bad hoses???
Fixed it and now it's back to just bad mileage.
Or use it on the squeezie line??
 
Last edited:
Those hoses from the crankcase to the fuel pump are vacuum lines and should never see much fuel contact. Ordinary neoprene should last another 35 years, which are probably how old the existing ones are.

If you pump the primer bulb, the carb should still be getting fuel unless the float needle is stuck in the carb or the diaphragm is punctured, which you verified is OK. In this case, the fuel pump wouldn't prevent the engine from at least firing. Do yourself a favor and don't use ether starting fluid. It's much more volatile than gasoline and you risk damaging the head gasket or worse.

If after checking the plugs, and they appear dry, put a little mixed gas in an oiler or spray bottle and give it a 1 or 2 shots in the carb throat and try cranking it. Keep the little spray bottle well away from the engine when cranking in case it backfires. Usually after cranking with the choke on, there will be a little bit of gas dribble from the front of the carb, indicating it is indeed getting fuel. Idle mixture needle should be about 1 to 1 and a half turns out counterclockwise from the gently seated (closed) position.

Don't do any linkage adjustments until you get the engine running enough that it will idle. Focus on one problem at a time.

I see you're in Edmonton. email me and perhaps I can help you further. byacey(at) interbaun(dot) com
 
Thanks for the post byacey. The vacuum lines were very hard and loose on the fittings so I replaced them and added clamps. I think a lot of the vacuum was lost.
I have heard from others to stay away from the ether and have put a little mixed fuel in a spray bottle but I cant try anything else until I get the parts from Franz.
If I am still having problems after that I will indeed take you up on your offer and email you.
Thanks, Bruce.
 
While I wait for the parts to arrive, I painted the engine cover. I tried to get as close to original colors as possible.

IMG_2669_zpsd286b6db.jpg

IMG_2670_zpsc23e8979.jpg

IMG_2671_zpsf583c38d.jpg


It turned out pretty good but of course while the clear why drying this little bastard landed on top of it.
I left him there till it cured and then plucked him off with tweezers.

IMG_2667_zps4f6b063a.jpg


Bruce.
 
I've been painting cars, trucks, boats and anything in between for about 22 years and it seems there is always something there to screw it up.
It's 95% prep. 2.5% painting and 2.5% fixing after painting.

Bruce.
 
Finally! I ordered the parts and they were sent out on September 4 and they arrived today! They must have been hung up at the border.
I dunno if Franz reads here but if so, Thanks Franz. I'd order from you again but hope I don't have to in the near future.
The only problem is that it's too cold here to venture out to the garage.
Supposed to get warmer this weekend.

IMG_2706.jpg

IMG_2707.jpg


Bruce.
 
IT'S ALIVE!!!

I bought a new battery today after putting the pump back together and reinstalling it and the carb.
Pumped the bulb a few times and turned the key.
diggitda diggitda diggitda vroom!
Idles a little rough but it runs!

New battery.
IMG_2746.jpg
 
You using the choke when trying to start?
Start procedures:
Pump ball.
Advance the cold start throttle.(silver button on shifter,pull out and push throttle all the way forward).
Turn key,while turning,push in key to activate choke.
Not trying to say your dumb,just don't know if you know this way??
Then if that don't help,do a compression test.
Make sure the gas is getting to the piston?
Clean the carb and make sure the float isin't stuck?
Then if all elce fails a little bit of starting fluid.Not too much as it strips the oil from the cylinders and bearings.
Sometimes tilting the motor all the way up will make the carb work.
Tilt it and try to start,when it coughs or bucks or starts,shut it off and lower it then start.

I'm working on my mother in law's chrysler 55 hp motor that is on a pontoon boat she got, and I was reading through this post. The other boat motors I have had were all tiller style, so I'm a little new to one like this, and just wondered if I'm not trying to start it wrong. I know I'm getting fuel to the carb, and I am working the choke manually, because I don't think it's working by pushing the key in like you are supposed to. Every now and then it will fire once or twice but won't actually run. The spark plugs have gas/oil on them, so I know that part is good. I have the motor in a trash can full of water, and am noticing there is actually some gas in the water now, so I wonder if the float ain't stuck open, but I figured it would at least try to run better than it is. The fuel bulb is holding good pressure also. There is no button on my throttle to pull out, so whats the best settings to try and get it to start? I was having someone else crank on while I was working the choke and the throttle by hand, but can't get it to start, and just wondered if I don't have one of them in the wrong place...also, in this thread, I seen someone got a manual for this boat motor and was wondering where they got it downloaded from so I can get one too....thanks in advance!

Jeremy
 
Post is a year old.
You should start your own.
The controls, show a pic?
The choke,remove the cover and have someone activate the choke at the key switch.
It just might need cleaning/WD-40 in the slide?
The throttle, if the throttle is opened too far it won't start.
Maybe a bit of starting fluid? Not a lot as it strips the oil from the cylinders.


Do a compression test.
 
Back
Top