1973 Electric Shift Sterndrive

Hi all,

I recently aquired a 1973 Arrow Glass Tigre I/O powered by a Chevy 250 inline 6 with an OMC 165hp sterndrive. Here is some history: After a couple hours of tubing on the lake, the shift lever was put into forward position followed by a loud electrical sounding pop noise from the stern of the boat. After that popping noise there has been no forward or reverse. The engine starts and runs great but the prop would not engage. The boat was towed off the lake. A mechanic at one local shop seemed to think they should be more worried about wether or not the supposed short caused reverse and forward to try and egage at the same time. Therefore, the previous owner took the lower unit off the sterndrive in an attempt to look for broken bits and pieces but did not get very far after seperating the units. Now the boat is mine and I'm staring at the trailered boat and a box of lower sterndrive parts wondering where to begin.

It has not been started since the lower unit was removed. It does have the adaptor plate for a garden hose to be attached to the upper unit. I know very little about these systems but I tend to be handy with a wrench and I managed to find a Clymers manual at one local boatshop. I would appreciate any advice before I jump in too far over my head. If I can solve this drive/electrical problem I intend to give the boat a nice cosmetic restore.

For starters, I suspect the switch/lever may have gone bad and based on a few other posts I have seen on this forum, wiring a solid three way (on-off-on) switch may be a viable replacement for that. However, what may have caused that loud 'pop'? I was told it sounded decidely electrical. All of the fuses, that I have been able to find, appear good. I do not see anything obviously cooked, melted or smell anything obviously burnt in the engine compartment. Should I suspect any particular solenoid(s) and where might they be located? Should I attempt to pull the lower unit completely apart and have a look at the forward and reverse springs/clutches? I am not gleaning the answers I had hoped to find within this Clymer's. Or maybe I just haven't yet connected the dots, lol.

Here's hoping for something relatively simple...

Thanks,
-Hawger

So today I had some time to play a little, I connected 12 volts from a portable power unit to each lead (one at a time of course) coming out of the Lower unit. Each lead offered an audible click when connected and I was able to witness engagement by spinning the shaft manually for both forward and reverse gears. I am pleased. I think one of my worst fears has just been alleviated.

Before reattaching the lower unit is there anything I should do while its off that I may regret not doing?

Thanks,
-Hawger

new water pump kit. How are the ball gears. You pressure test the drive ? The tilt clutch housing have water in it ?

Boy, your initial description of an "Electrical" sounding "Popping" noise has me wondering.

Firstly, the gear engagement in the lower section is by solenoid and I never would have thought it could be a loud noise, as most electrical noises are usually sparking noises.

As you found out, the Solenoids give out an audible click when energised.

You could have stripped the Crown Wheel or Pinion in the top of the outdrive, or the vertical drive shaft could be broken.

Bruce.

Have you made any progress? I have broken 2 driveshafts in my lower unit. I think it's the neutral safety switch in the shifter sending current down both leads. Mine tests fine by applying current to each lead in the lower unit. When I pulled the lower apart, I found that it is possible for both forward and reverse gears to engage at the same time (they should have made the spacer between gears long enough to prevent this from happening). Some say the pinion would break before the driveshaft, but I don't believe it. The driveshaft WILL snap if both gears engage while underway. I'm going to install a third driveshaft and bypass the switch by installing a 3 position switch for forward, neutral and reverse. I bet it doesn't happen again. I don't know what solenoids tassie devil is referring to. Mine certainly has no solenoid in the shift mechanism. There are 2 in the tilt system, but the shifting is done by electromagnetic coils pulling the gears onto splines on the prop shaft when current is sent down either of the 2 leads.

Oops, sorry about that. My brain must have been in freeze mode, seeing as it is Winter down here, and haven't had her on the water for a very long time.

Bruce.

Thanks all for your inputs, I appreciate it.

Ok, I was able to spend some more time on this beast. The ball gears are OK. I'd say the worse spots are worn no more than 20%. The motor runs excellent! The tilt clutch housing had a little bit of water in the case, and as per the service manual it was filled with engine oil. I removed the upper housing and gear case and it appears the tilt motor is frozen up, or maybe the hammer coupling is bound up. The tilt gear (now freed of any load) barely budges when engaged and then only in one direction. The tilt motor seems like it is going to be a pain in the rear to r&r as its under and behind the rear motor mount. I can just see the rear of the tilt motor.

Bruce, it would seem you were on to something because now here's the worse news. The upper gear case is sadly ill. While I have not cracked it open yet, I can turn the ball gear by hand and feel/hear things grinding and slipping inside without engaging the splined output. If i wiggle the splined end, yes it wiggles..., I can get a tiny bit of engagement at times. Think I'm looking at big money here?

I am headed out in a few to try and crack the upper case open and see what i see. After all, its already non functional. What worse could I do? I will update with my findings.

-Hawger

Well, I can only speculate that the popping noise was this splined connection giving way. The male splines on the shaft going through the water pump are all but stripped smooth and the female recepticle in the bearing housing is much the same. I have attached pictures. Yes, there was evidence of water in the case lube. It was milky. When I disassembled the unit the first thing I noticed was although there was a shaft seal there was no retainer clip on the shaft going through the waterpump (see attached pitcures). My Clymer manual shows nothing about user service regarding the bearing housing. The bearing housing assembly also seems a little stiff when rotating by hand. I would expect a well lubed bearing assembly to spin freely and happily. How bad is this situation? Can I get parts? Recommendations?

As a side note, the water pump plate and impeller look good, heh. :-/

Oh dear, bot good. But, where have all the metallic pieces gone to that got ground away? That is the question.

You shouldn't have much trouble getting the replacement shaft/s, as I have seen these on ebay all the time. At least they aren't as scarce as the Press-on Ball Gears.

Mine suffered a different problem to yours in that the nut that retained the crown wheel gear onto the top shaft cane loose, and off, and as you can see by the attached pictures, started to destroy the crown wheel and pinion, and the internal keyway on the crown wheel shaft.

By the way, that seal is supposed to be glued to the spline before re-assembly.

Bruce.

with it only being 165HP, I might just replace the w/p shaft and say a prayer for the female spline in the upper. hard to make that call from the pics. Get in the habit of re-greasing the splines and rechecking them annually and monitor their progress.

the_tassie_devil said:

But, where have all the metallic pieces gone to that got ground away? That is the question.

Click to expand...

In his case, they are in the lake. That spline is in water, not oil. (which is why a good marine grease replaced every 3 years min, and every 1 or 2 years for a moored boat is important)

When I look at a picture of a new, rediculously expensive replacement shaft 0907738 - PINION SHFT,LO PRO, it doesn't give me a lot of hope for those splines...

Are the bearings and such in that bearing housing assembly pressed on or does it all slip apart after removing that top nut?

it doesn't slip apart, and you'll need a pro with the specialized tools to shim the old gears correctly onto the new shaft and set up the backlash.

Might as well go with all new bearings and seals at that point too.

I cleaned out the spline area with some cleaner and a dental pick and got a better look. The splines look worn on the lower half as you exit the shaft but overall the unit does not appear stripped smooth like the male side. Therefore I think i will try as you suggest hystat and "replace the w/p shaft and say a prayer for the female spline in the upper".

I was able to remove the tilt motor and disassemble it. It was rusted up tight. Hammer coupler/spring is in fine shape. Several hours of careful cleaning and polishing later, the tilt motor now functions like new! However, the brushes should probably be replaced. I was happy that mini project went well, celebratory beverage!

Now to gather a parts list so I can reassemble the drive...

if you can find Castrol Pyroplex Blue.... that's the super grease for those splines. It gets tackier and stickier with water.... sticks in those splines like snot to a vest.

Awesome tip, thanks!

" Castrol Pyroplex Blue " Gotta try that. I have been using stuff that i call rhino snot. Bout to run out of it in a can, all that is printed on the can is spline grease, i absconded with it from the military when ushered out, along with a full box of tools. Ooops i write that ?

Thanks.

"By the way, that seal is supposed to be glued to the spline before re-assembly."

My Clymer's states "Use OMC Adhesive M" for that seal. What's this translate to for acceptable alternatives?

69 dollars for that shaft many sites.

Yeah i picked up a new shaft. Paid a little more than 69 but that's ok. Now I'm wondering what to glue to use on that seal

This project got sent to the back burner and I'm just now getting back to it. Thanks to everyone here and in PMs for the great tips. The upper case is almost reassembled and I should be backing the hull up to the shop this weekend to reassemble the drive. All that said it may yet be next summer before she gets out on the water. The sterndrive is only the first hurdle.

They say that Rome wasn't built in a day, but you will get her in the water someday, and will enjoy it.

Bruce.