Sears 7 HP ignition question

Ok Sean we tested you ignition repair job and as you can see in this video you were successful....congratulations

and this slow speed test, If I remmeber correctly about 18ish hand cranking RPM's for the avarage single cylinder Eska Solid State ignition to build a fire, we were getting a spark much lowere than that with your Sean

Hey Doug! Good to hear from you. The second video doesn't appear to be working but based on your comments, are you trying to tell me I have a working ignition system?(!) Were additional repairs needed beyond mine? Sounds like you and Ed worked some magic mojo on it.

Details, buddy... I need details!

Yep I'm telling yeah it works, not sure what or why but the ground lug where the module attatches to the stator frame is rust and I loosened that to move the air gap in becuase Ed thought it was rubbing...in fact there was a screw under the sims drive pully that was making the fuss, but none the less you done a good job, I will replace the rusty nut and try and return it to the original air gap setup...just moved it a tad... but you may want to check your air gap about 0.005 I measure through the hole that the PT wire goes through in the stator plate.

Not sure what up with the seconed video...but it was more of the same

Great news! Y'all need to let me compensate you for your time.

Hey Doug, question for you. In order for the engine to be turned off, should the screw in the pictures (with the captive spring) be able to come in contact with the terminal you fixed? I seem to remember those two coming in contact with each other last time I worked on it but I'm not sure. Or does the motor shut off simply by moving the throttle lever and cutting off the gas?

Yes this is the stop/kill screw, thats the ones some guys take out and just use the choke to kill the engine

in the last pic it looks like the whole casting for the screw is in contact?? is that what I see?

No, the screw will not come in contact with the other point no matter how it is adjusted. I thought about two fixes; either install a single pole toggle switch near the controls that connects the two points.... or put two nuts, tightened against each other at the end of the screw, that would then come in contact with the lug you worked on. Of course, I would have to use a dremel with a wire brush to expose some of the metal from that point you coated with sealant.

I'm fairly resourceful..... what would you suggest?

For what it's worth, I again say huge thanks to you for all your (and Ed's) help. I now have spark and sincerely appreciate a total stranger helping me out the way you have. For all the negative things going on in this world today, I can't tell you how much your kind gesture encourages me. It just might mean more than you understand.

PS...........The dunce in me hadn't thought of using the choke to kill the engine. I can certainly deal with that method!

I just wanted to prove a point thet we sometimes give up early on these ignitions when in fact its could be something simple like a bad ground....and it worked out great for us as part if our ignition lab/clinic day. I'm not always so giving but I'm happy your happy.

Long live The Dependable Eska


best regards,
MrCrabs

Mr Crabs,

Just wanted to let you know that the old motor was churning water last night in the garage. Still need to do some fine tuning but it's now working, thanks to you and Ed's help.

Your kind help is much appreciated.