Manual/Tips on cold starting 1982 70hp (3cly) type c carbs

I have posted a thread on my 1982 Mercury Engine but need a cold starting tip on this engine. Jeff has helped my out a bunch. Only issue I have now is cold starting. I have replaced everything from fuel tank to rebuilt carbs pre service manual, new jets and floats,fuel pump, filter, fuel lines, spark plugs. 140 psi on all cylinders within a pound or two. Since engine has a enrichment valve this is new to me. My first Mercury. The major problem I found with engine was the fuel pump had a hole in it. Now to cold starting. I have been to lake three times and choking engine will not start. I have to spray a little starting fuel in it to start. I am carrying a spray bottle on boat with mixed fuel with me. I know the carbs are clean and they are getting fuel. Primmer bulb tight. Pulled top main jet and bowl had fuel. I am doing something wrong. Push center knob to fast idle and push key in for choke. Chokes enrichment valves are turning with key pushed in or manual knob pulled. Engine runs great after starting first time the rest of the day. So what am I doing wrong?

Thanks, Andy

Could it be this ( reply from Fastjeff to my post titled Harbour water allergy http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/showthread.php?400823-Harbour-water-allergy )

I'll bet I know: You fired it up at home, didn't run the carbs dry, left the fuel hose connected (possibly with the vent closed), then tilted the motor up and bounced it all the way to the ramp, resulting in a flooded motor.

Sound possible? Easy to find out.

Jeff

It became apparent to me that my 115 HP merc. engine which uses an enrichment solenoid likes plenty of fuel when I start it cold after it sits for several days. It has always been difficult to start after a week of sitting in the driveway. Here is what I figured out recently. It will fire right away if I squeeze the primer until firm and then continue to squeeze it 4-5 more times before holding the key switch in for 10 seconds. Fuel does not leak out of the carbs when I do it. I don't run the carbs dry because the fuel line is attached w/hose clamps...no quick disconnect.

Correct! The PRESSURE to operate the 'flooding solenoid" (for that's what it is) comes from the pressure you build up in the line by pumpng the bulb.

The concept is this: The limited amount of gas that will enter the motor before the pressure drops is enough to get her going, and not enough to flood the hell out of it. If she doesn't light off the first time, however, then you MUST pump the pressure up again or...

Jeff

I have found that if I leave fuel lines on it runs better. I think I got use to starting my old Johnson that had a fast idle lever and a butterfly choke I thought Mercury's where the same for cold start. I'll learn to start it here at the house in a water tank I made up. Jeff posted to just bump the fast idle up a little so there in a good vacuum on the choke circuit and pump bulb up tight. That makes since so carbs will have more vacuum on choke circuit with butterfly's closed at first. And a friend at the lake told me he had a Mercury just like mine and he had to trim it down all they way. That work best for him. I will keep a small syringe in tool box just in case I need it until I get the starting patten down pat for this engine.
Thanks very much, Andy