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Need ecu for ford 5.8 efi

Same as a Mustang, except it doesn't have the waterproof housing. Go to a junk yard. Or Ebay.

Really.


What make you think the ECU is bad? A genuine ECU from Bombardier will run you about 800.
 
suppose you could just buy a 4 barrel intake and carb and forgo the fuel injection - probably less money to go that route than buy an ecm new.
The last price showing was $1243 for that ecu
could get an Edelbrock 2924 intake and Edelbrock 1409 and all the linkages and nonsense fabbed up for that I gotta think

the fact that there are 2 different part numbers for that ecu based on model prefix is scary - how will you even know if an ebay unit is the right one

78 3854890 MODULE, ECA, 5.8 Litre. 58FAPHU Models Only
78 3854886 MODULE, ECA, 5.8 Litre. 58FBPHU Models Only
 
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John Pesale said:
The mustang ECU does not work unless you reprogram the unit
Click to expand...
Absolute hogwash. Of course it will work. You have a Ford automotive EFI on your engine, only without the emissions sensors attached. Same ECU, same fuel map, same sensors, same everything.

You can also look for one from a Volvo Penta 5.0 -5.8 of the same vintage. Same engine.

I have lost count of how many times i have used the word "same" in this post.
 
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If OMC has several different part numbers based on serial number, I have a hard time believing a Mustang ecu will make it go.
Google reveals several threads where people have had no luck trying to get automotive ecu's to work.
One person crossed the number on the back to a F150/f250, but couldn't get truck unit with same part number to work.

Regardless, who wants to be out on the water at the mercy of a Ford ecm?....

I'd throw a carb on there.
 
Agree with replacing with carb. Far more economical and replacement parts easy to come by. EFI, while fabulous, needs every bit of it to be in perfect working condition. I know cz I did a conversion from carb to Ford EFI on two engines (A9L ecus {thanks Ebay} from 86-93 mustangs, which worked perfectly BTW). However, it's a little more involved than just "throwing" a carb on it.
You will have to get a low pressure fuel pump as the EFI pump is putting out about 60 psi. You'll also need a regular (points or electronic) distributor, and the associated Electronic Shift Assist module.
Since the fuel pump solenoid turns on thru the engine ECU, you'll want to reroute the wiring so that the pump comes on with the key switch in the run position. Usually the best way to do that is with an oil pressure safety switch in between the keyed hot and the solenoid activation wire so that the pump shuts off when the engine stops. You can remove the wire from the coolant temp sensor (not the gauge sender!)
I dunno, you may have a cam with a fuel pump lobe on it. I'd be tempted to take the cover off the fuel pump hole and see. If so you can forget the electric fuel pump and go mech. Way easier, but initially expensive since they don't make many mechanical marine fuel pumps for Fords any more. I paid about a hundred bucks for a reconditioned one not too long ago.
If the engine has the alloy valve covers then you'll need steelies, and new gaskets, and a breather and the hoses to the flame arrestor (oh yeah you need one of them too).
The main thing about carb conversion is that it can't lay up with gas in the float bowl, so drain or run it dry at winterizing.
 
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