120 Johnson still smokes but not all the time

[deano]

" Hi....Joe, I looked for a anti siphon valve on my built in tank {re posting Feb/14/02} but all I found was a small brass 90 degree angle fitting with the fuel line attached.{No 2" long aluminum fittng anywhere near the tank.}

I have looked at a lot of postings on this board and have learned that the automotive hose clamps could be the problem.{Letting air into the fuel lines} I have replaced them with the plastic double locking kind. The in line fuel filter has been replaced also.

Now I only have the problem at start up and when I troll for a long time. I'm sure you are right when you said that any fuel restrictions can cause the VRO to draw up an imprroper mix loaded with oil but I'm not sure where to start and or where to look. Any other ideas because the other people in my area don't like my motor very much and there is talk of banning two stroke motors from the lake system with my motor being the example of why they should be banned.[Not good at all.] "

[jon]

" Deano,

Hopefully Joe will have a better answer for you, but although the VRO should help with smoking, that engine is still a two stroke running at a low RPM. It may not actually be running rich on oil, it may just be running rich on fuel; some engines will actually "load up" after running at a low RPM too long and will even run poorly or stall until the RPM's are increased to burn off the extra fuel. With a fuel injected engine things can be run leaner, but with carbs, it is ideal to have the engine running a little rich to be sure it is well lubricated at all times. I'm assuming what you are speaking of is just a cloud of translucent smoke and not an opaque smokescreen that could hide the entire boat. Starting the engine cold is a time when you should allways expect smoke, there's no getting around that. When I troll with my main engine, I pop it in neutral and bring the RPM's up every now and again, this helps, but what works even better is a small outboard or trolling motor.

Just wondering, as far as the ban on two-strokes go, what area are you in?

Jon "

[deano]

" Hi Jon... Thanks for the reply. You're right about the fact that every once and awhile you need to bring up the rpm's to help burn off the extra fuel.

This is something I do quite regular, I pull up the lines and burn off to a new spot and it takes about fifteen to twenty minutes for the smoke to come back.

Trolling though is very minor part of my 120 HP boating use, {Not the most efficient way to troll}the motor smoking issue really come into play when I go into port or through a speed controled river.

I guess only thing that really bugs me is it didn't always do this,and like to fix it.

As for the ban.... we cottage {Canadian term} in an area that was taken over by Hollywood types and over paid hockey players each seam to think that they are the only ones that matter and my smog is bad for karma.

In the local papers the hollywood types {whom only stay in the area for about eight weeks} have asked the politicians to review the two stroke motor issue and call for there ban.

So if you read this Joe and anybody else that might have some experience with a overly smokie motor please add to this message.

Thanks Deano "

[joereeves]

"Deano.... It's always possible that the VRO is acting up, allowing more oil than usual to be injected at times. If you wanted to do away with the automatic oiling setup on a trial basis, and mix the oil with your fuel, you could do the following..... and you could reverse the procedure should you prefer the automatic oiling setup.

(VRO Pump Conversion To Straight Fuel Pump)

You can convert the VRO pump into a straight fuel pump, eliminating the oil tank and VRO pump warning system, but retain the overheat warning setup by doing the following:

1 - Cut and plug the oil line at the engine so that the oil side of the VRO pump will not draw air into its system. Trace the wires from the back of the VRO to its rubber plug (electrical plug) and disconnect it. (In your case, as a trial, remove the oil line at the engine and plug it, then attach a short hose to the fitting you just removed the oil line from and plug it also.)

2 - Trace the two wires from the oil tank to the engine, disconnect those two wires, then remove them and the oil tank. (In your case, don't remove the tank yet, just disconnect those two wires.)

3 - Mix the 50/1 oil in the proper amount with whatever quanity fuel you have. Disconnect the fuel line at the engine. Pump the fuel primer bulb until fuel exits that hose with the tint of whatever oil you used. Reconnect the fuel hose.

That's it. If you want to test the heat warning system to ease your mind, have the key in the on position, then ground out the tan heat sensor wire that you'll find protruding from the cylinder head. The warning horn should sound off.
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If the engine now runs properly, and does not smoke as you've stated, obviously the VRO pump is at fault. This leaves you with two choices. One being to purchase a new VRO pump, the second is to make the change over permanent. Good Luck.

Joe[img][/img]"