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PLease help me!! 1999 200 hp evinrude commercial ( not a fitch ) boggs down when i apply throttle

Hey daselbee, before I take boat back to my boat mechanic buddy can you give me a couple examples or reasons why the motor runs perfect if its a cool morning or if motor has been in water over night and I start it up the next morn and it runs perfect until engine gets warm then it boggs ???
what on the motor is heating and possibly causing this?
Also here lately after I choke it to get up on plane, (throttle has to be wide open) I can trim it up real quick while I hold choke in choke
And then quickly back throttle back a little and it will run at about 4400-4600 rpm when I stop pushing choke.... it seems to surge aprox 150-300 Rpms back and forth
Does this info change any of your thoughts??
Thank you very much for your. Help with this..
 
Hey daselbee, thanks for helping me, before I take my boat back to my boat mechanic,
can you tell me a few reasons why it is that if its cool or if my boat sits in water over night and I start it in morning it runs great until the engine warms and then it boggs. It seems to me that something on the motor is heating up and causing this issue. Is that possible?
Also just wanted to let you know this info as well. .
I can hold choke in and get motor to plane and when it tilts over on plane. ( throttle has to be set to wide open full throttle) I immediately Start trimming up and if I quickly back off throttle I can get motor to barely run without having to choke it at all. It will run at about 4400 rpms. But it seems to have a slight slight surge. Then decrease then surge then decrease etc.. fluctuation is usually bout100-200 rpms
Does any of this change any of your thoughts?
Thanks for helping me..
 
No, I still think you need to thoroughly clean the carbs especially behind the side plates, behind the round welch plug on the throttle bodies, and don't forget the little brass tube that extends down into the bowls of all carbs. It sounds like the fuel pickup tubes could be partially clogged.

If choking it improves performance, it says to me that the carbs are very very lean, from clogs.

If he is in there, have him measure the fuel pump output pressure. That maybe could have an effect....but realize that if you have low pressure on the fuel pump output, then you will not have enough pressure to shoot fuel thru the primer system either. That one is iffy, but very easy to just measure it.

If it is neither of those things, look at timing advance. Make sure timer base is moving freely thru it's full travel.
 
We had to replace the flywheels when we first got it due to the engine sitting for bout 5 years and when we ran it first time the magnets broke free from flywheels. I remember little birth peices. Of magnet sticking to engine, this may be far fetched but is it possible there are prices of that magnet (very small) that may be prohibiting the timer advance from free flowing thrum its cycle?
I am just trying to brainstorm myself....is the timer advance enclosed in something or is this even possible?
 
Hey daselbee, my boat mechanic buddy did some sort of test on the timer base where he used a voltage meter and touched a positive wire on the left side of the timer base to each of the wires coming off of the opposite side of timer base. The book said each wire should be authentic 2 or so ohms I believe. One of the wires had no juice at all so therefor he beleives timer base is gone..does that sound bout right to you
 
No Chris, I don't think it is the timer base from your description.

You are asking me to speculate on some very sketchy information.

But, assuming "ONE wire had no juice at all"....you could be describing a failure where ONE cylinder would not be sparking. So, why not test spark on all six and determine if the timer base is bad that way?
Your engine runs, right? Do the spark test. Takes about 10 minutes. Use an adjustable spark tester from the auto parts store, set it to 7/16 inch, and check that the spark on all six jumps that gap. If you have one cylinder that is dead, then POSSIBLY it could be timer base related.

If you have good spark on all six, then look at carbs for your bogging.

Where are you located, anyway?
 
Have you looked at issues with crankcase compression ??---------------OMC was known to have problems with crankshaft seal rings wearing and breaking.
 
Hey gu
ys I got a little closer to diagnosing my issues here... we found a powerhead id # on bottom of powerhead that identified this as a 1989 powerhead on a 99 lower unit. I found the original owner who told me he had a warranty on this motor and after one yr. The Fitch blew up and they replaced it with a 89 powerhead and put carbs on. The flywheels that is on it now is not correct, it is for a 99 200. Could this flywheels be producing to much current or not enough? Also my fifth cylinder is not getting spark now could the flywheels have messed my powerpack up or could it be that if I put the proper flywheels back on (583968) my problems may get solved or has the damage already been done to the powerpack??
Is the reason it runs when its cold for bout a half mile perfectly have to do with the timer advanced being
 
The flywheels from 1988 thru 2001 are the same. If the P/N changes on the parts list, it is because of OMC internal decisions to change the P/N, not because a 1989 flywheel will not work on a 1999 motor or vice versa. It is simply not the case.
There are many reasons OMC changed P/Ns, the most common one being the fact that they did not want to SUPPORT older part numbers (my personal opinion).

But anyway....if you truly have a 1999 flywheel on it, it will work.
If you have a 1988 and above TIMER BASE on it, it will work.
Your flywheel does not put out current. The spinning magnets on the flywheel generate CURRENT in the stator...which outputs it to the battery and powerpack.
There has been NO DAMAGE done by the flywheel.

If you have spark on all cyls except #5, then there are these possibilities.
1. Bad powerpack.
2. Bad timer base.
3. Bad #5 coil.
4. Open on the connector from timer base to power pack, STBD side, green wire. (In the four wire rubber connector.)

But it is NOT the flywheel, assuming that you have posted factual information regarding the years of these parts.

Don't over complicate it. Check spark when it is bogging. Easy to do. Hook up a timing light to #1 when bogging. Look into the light. Look for irregular flashing, missed flashes, or no flashes at all. Go to the next cyl. Check them all. If flashing properly, then your problem is likely carbs.

Eliminate one system at a time as the problem. Proceed in an orderly fashion, and don't try to create weird possibilities and scenarios as the problem. Go for the easiest testing first. You will find it.
 
Hello, I apoligize for not posting in a long time but I had some family emergencys that needed to be dealt with that put my boat on hold... anyway I tool my boat to Bay roc marina in hardy VAa.
because my mechanic buddy that was working on my engine in the first place jus kind of stopped answering my calls .. I think he realized he had screwed up enough and decided to hit ignore when my number rang his shop. So now we are at this point in this game, the mechanic at the new shop, Roy
Is a absolute wizard when it comes to these evinrude motors and right off the bat he replaced powerpack and is now ripping thru the fuel system to Try and detect if there is a fuel restriction problem. He is also going to look into resyncing the timing (?). Once he replaced the powerpack he got fire on all six cylinders where as before it was only four one day and maybe five the next.. soon as he replaced he backed in water to replicate load. And again it bogged as if it was fuel flow restriction. He now is checking all carbs and lines
. I will keep you posted as to what his prognosis is later in the week. Any guesses would keep my mind going. Thanks to all that have replied to me
 
Update :
This Fitch engine was rebuilt with a 1990 carbed block ( welch plug number)
Now my mechanic is cross referencing numbers on fly wheel, stator, and trigger as well as other things to see if they are capable..
 
My mechanic says he has. Narrowed my problem down to either my reed valves are screwed
Or its my crank case seals...
if there is a mechanic reading this will you please give me your thought.. thanks
 
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