any tips when replacing 440 manifolds

I am ready to replace all manifolds, elbows, and risers on my 440's. I know that I have previously read some tips from folks on the forum. Went through the archives and just can't find them. Some I believe were about the type of make of the gaskets and another I believe was mentioned by Jeff about sealing the stainless sleeve. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I just replaced everything except my manifolds (FWC). This was my first time taking this on and if you can turn a 9/16" wrench, you can do this job. Regarding gaskets; the gasket that goes between the manifold and riser specifically states on it, not to use sealant as it is a self-sealing gasket. There is no plate, just gasket. My mechanic replaced the last set 4 years ago this way and I replaced it the same way-No Leaks. My parts were Osco. I gave up on trying to save my antifreeze by being ultra careful when opening up the system. I dropped it in the bilge and used an oil changer to suck it up.

I have twin engines so the first one took a little longer (learning curve) second one went pretty quick. Also a good time to replace 3" exhaust hose or any cooling hoses.

Good luck!

I wouldnt go into to it thinking that if you can turn a 9/16 wrench you can do it easily,better be prepared to extract some bolts maybe and use sealant on the threads of the ones that may go into cooling chambers and I would always use gasket sealant on the risers to manifold surface or any block off plates,water intakes,head to manifold dry

Dont tourque em till there hot and be sure they dont leak water back to the head by using the drains on the dry side while pressurizing water or air or kool aid!!

Drain the blocks ,good time to flush the system a few times

If the bolts holding the manifolds to the heads don't want to turn, DO NOT force them or they will snap off in the head--and that often means a machine shop job to repair. Take one bolt at a time and CAREFULLY try to unscrw it; if it starts moving, fine: ease it out. But if it doesn't want to turn, do not go any further. Either drill the head off the bolts (or grind them IF you can do it safely). The manifold can then be wedged off what remains of the bolts with wooden wedges. With it off, the remains of the bolts can be Vise Gripped out.

Jeff

PS: Be sure to drain ther block and everything else BEFORE ou remove anytning or you'll end up with liquid in the cylinders.

I replaced the risers on my Chrysler 306s last winter. Jeff's advice is exactly right. Don't get muscular and break off a bolt. Sometimes, letting some penetrating oil soak in for a week or so does the trick. My engines are fresh water cooled and have a block-off gaskets between the manifolds and the elbows. I coated all surfaces with Permtatex Red and then tightened them down. This spring, no leaks or weeping from any of those joints.

Bill

Excellent work, Bill.

For those of you who have experienced water leaking into a cylinder--and hydrolocking it--it's comforting to find that your work percludes that nonsense!

Jeff

Thanks everyone!

Have fun Let us know how it goes..

old hatt said:

I am ready to replace all manifolds, elbows, and risers on my 440's. I know that I have previously read some tips from folks on the forum. Went through the archives and just can't find them. Some I believe were about the type of make of the gaskets and another I believe was mentioned by Jeff about sealing the stainless sleeve. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

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Those M440 manifolds are mighty heavy, be careful. If you plan to replace risers, get old ones out of there first to lighten up manifold, otherwise if its just a gasket change leave as assembly and get some strong help to lift it out.

A day or so before you start, do this; Take one of the manifold bolts out and match it up with 2 new ones that you'll purchase from Fastenal, or McMaster-Carr (I believe 7/16-14 x measure length).

Now take your new bolts and cut the hex-heads off with hack saw, in vice. Now use hack saw to cut a screw-driver slot into bolt where head was.

Begin manifold job:

Drain and disconnect hoses, get all extra crap out of the way, these boys are, did I say heavy?, really HEAVY.

Remove second and second to last bolts on one manifold and replace them with pilot-bolts that you just made. Remove the rest of the bolts from that manifold and draw manifold away from cylinder head.

For installation, reverse procedure making sure that you apply silicone pipe-dope to bolt threads (bolt passes into cooling passage of cylinder head and will leak without pipe-dope).

For bolts where pilots are, get out your stubby screw-driver and remove pilot-bolts, replace with correct bolts.

The pilot bolts help prevent manifold from dropping onto a spark plug, or damaging fittings on oil hoses.

Good luck, and eat your Wheaties!

,Noel.