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  1. #1

    Default Volvo Penta 3.0 L GSM-C engine replacement

    I am replacing the 3 L Volvo Penta engine in my 2002 Glastron SX175 with a new parts long block from Michigan motors.

    The boat is in mint condition except for a cracked block. (My fault… I owned outboards before this. I knew I was supposed to drain the engine to prevent this, but stupidly thought most of the water would evaporate between September and the winter freeze.… It didn't!)

    I have performed several automobile engine replacements using long block remanufactured engines, but have no marine engine removal experience.

    I have read the debates between those forum members who recommend removal of outdrive/transom components, and those who advise the engine can be removed by itself, (Ricardo). I would prefer to remove only the engine and avoid having to replace any transom or outdrive seals. The transom and outdrive are in perfect condition with low hours and there is nothing which needs renewing during the disassembly. Also since I have no experience in transom or outdrive removal, I would prefer to leave these components alone if the engine can be swapped by itself.

    I have several general questions regarding this straight engine swap.

    1. Can I remove this engine by simply unbolting the engine from the flywheel through and inspection plates in the Bell housing, and removing the front engine mount bolts?

    2. Is there anything tricky about disconnecting any of the control systems, tilt and trim hydraulics, or electronics that I should be aware of?

    3. Are there any tips in getting the engine back in? Any tips on getting the splines to mate… Do I have a helper wiggle the propeller; do I jiggle the whole engine, or is there some other trick or tip?

    4. I am hoping only the block is cracked, and that the intake/exhaust manifold is on damaged. Are there differences between installing the unified intake/exhaust manifold on a marine engine versus the separate units on an automobile engine?

    5. The Michigan motors long block comes with the distributor already installed. Do I need to remove the distributor and use the distributor drive gears to pressurize the oil system prior to start up, or is there some other way to do this on this engine/

    This is a great forum, with knowledgeable contributors. Any advice you can give me about this straight up engine swap would be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Chaumont Bay, N.y., USA
    Posts
    4,016

    Default Re: Volvo Penta 3.0 L GSM-C engine replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by wizard651 View Post
    I am replacing the 3 L Volvo Penta engine in my 2002 Glastron SX175 with a new parts long block from Michigan motors.

    The boat is in mint condition except for a cracked block. (My fault… I owned outboards before this. I knew I was supposed to drain the engine to prevent this, but stupidly thought most of the water would evaporate between September and the winter freeze.… It didn't!)

    I have performed several automobile engine replacements using long block remanufactured engines, but have no marine engine removal experience.

    I have read the debates between those forum members who recommend removal of outdrive/transom components, and those who advise the engine can be removed by itself, (Ricardo). I would prefer to remove only the engine and avoid having to replace any transom or outdrive seals. The transom and outdrive are in perfect condition with low hours and there is nothing which needs renewing during the disassembly. Also since I have no experience in transom or outdrive removal, I would prefer to leave these components alone if the engine can be swapped by itself.

    I have several general questions regarding this straight engine swap.

    1. Can I remove this engine by simply unbolting the engine from the flywheel through and inspection plates in the Bell housing, and removing the front engine mount bolts?

    2. Is there anything tricky about disconnecting any of the control systems, tilt and trim hydraulics, or electronics that I should be aware of?

    3. Are there any tips in getting the engine back in? Any tips on getting the splines to mate… Do I have a helper wiggle the propeller; do I jiggle the whole engine, or is there some other trick or tip?

    4. I am hoping only the block is cracked, and that the intake/exhaust manifold is on damaged. Are there differences between installing the unified intake/exhaust manifold on a marine engine versus the separate units on an automobile engine?

    5. The Michigan motors long block comes with the distributor already installed. Do I need to remove the distributor and use the distributor drive gears to pressurize the oil system prior to start up, or is there some other way to do this on this engine/

    This is a great forum, with knowledgeable contributors. Any advice you can give me about this straight up engine swap would be greatly appreciated.
    Ayuh,.... Without removin' the drive, you can NOT align the motor,... Period...

    You can NOT properly do what needs doin', if ya startin' out, tryin' to find needless short cuts...

    #1,.. As I said, Do it Right, or don't even start the job...

    #2,.. Nope,... all very straight forward...

    #3,.. Again, Do it Right, pull the drive, 'n the motor sets straight down, onto it's mounts...

    #4,.. 'bout the same...

    #5,.. Yes, I prime the oil New motors... Sometimes simply by pullin' the coil wire, 'n spinn' it with the plugs out...
    Any Grease is Better,... Than No grease at All....

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Portland, Oregon,
    Posts
    6,583

    Default Re: Volvo Penta 3.0 L GSM-C engine replacement

    Wizard, I think that you'll see that there is NO debate once you learn which drive system we're talking about.

    My comment regarding engine removal without pulling the drive, is for the main suspension fork/pivot tube geometry AQ series engine/drives.
    Your drive is a Gimbal System drive. Apples/Oranges.

    With the AQ series, engine alignment is pre-determined via the engineering.
    IOW, the F/C, the PDS and the Engine can't help but align when connected to each other.

    However, we do one initial alignment between the F/C and Transom Shield duing intial or original engine AND flywheel cover installation ONLY.
    After that, and when/if the F/C is not removed, a simple engine pull AND engine re-installation (while leaving the F/C in place), is very common.
    (this may require attention to the front engine mounts in that they are not left to be mixed up from side to side, or left loose to allow a height change)
    When the mounts themselves are un-touched (stringer lag bolts removed), the engine block castings are machined closely enough, that this is seldom an issue.


    Now... if someone suggested that a Gimbal system drive engine can be pulled without removing the drive..... they are correct, but with several caveats.
    One caveat would be if you have space to slide the engine forward enough to allow the drive shaft to disengage from the drive coupler.
    Another caveat would be that you fully understand that this is for engine removal ONLY.
    When going back in, the drive MUST be removed in order to perform the drive coupler alignment procedure.


    I would take Bill's advice, and go through the entire engine drive coupler alignment procedure.
    You DO NOT want to loose a coupler due to a silly misalignment boo boo.

    .
    Last edited by RicardoMarine; 05-27-2012 at 10:40 AM.
    Rick ... aka Ricardo
    Portland, Oregon
    28' SDN F/B w/ twin Volvo Penta 5.7L DP's

  4. #4

    Default Re: Volvo Penta 3.0 L GSM-C engine replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by wizard651 View Post
    I am replacing the 3 L Volvo Penta engine in my 2002 Glastron SX175 with a new parts long block from Michigan motors.

    The boat is in mint condition except for a cracked block. (My fault… I owned outboards before this. I knew I was supposed to drain the engine to prevent this, but stupidly thought most of the water would evaporate between September and the winter freeze.… It didn't!)

    I have performed several automobile engine replacements using long block remanufactured engines, but have no marine engine removal experience.

    I have read the debates between those forum members who recommend removal of outdrive/transom components, and those who advise the engine can be removed by itself, (Ricardo). I would prefer to remove only the engine and avoid having to replace any transom or outdrive seals. The transom and outdrive are in perfect condition with low hours and there is nothing which needs renewing during the disassembly. Also since I have no experience in transom or outdrive removal, I would prefer to leave these components alone if the engine can be swapped by itself.

    I have several general questions regarding this straight engine swap.

    1. Can I remove this engine by simply unbolting the engine from the flywheel through and inspection plates in the Bell housing, and removing the front engine mount bolts?

    2. Is there anything tricky about disconnecting any of the control systems, tilt and trim hydraulics, or electronics that I should be aware of?

    3. Are there any tips in getting the engine back in? Any tips on getting the splines to mate… Do I have a helper wiggle the propeller; do I jiggle the whole engine, or is there some other trick or tip?

    4. I am hoping only the block is cracked, and that the intake/exhaust manifold is on damaged. Are there differences between installing the unified intake/exhaust manifold on a marine engine versus the separate units on an automobile engine?

    5. The Michigan motors long block comes with the distributor already installed. Do I need to remove the distributor and use the distributor drive gears to pressurize the oil system prior to start up, or is there some other way to do this on this engine/

    This is a great forum, with knowledgeable contributors. Any advice you can give me about this straight up engine swap would be greatly appreciated.
    Wizard651,

    How did you make out with this project?* I am currently in the same situation and are considering ordering a replacement block from Michigan.* Just curious how the project went, what other parts you needed to purchase along the way, how much time it took and if you would share any tips based on your recent experience.

    Any information would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Ryan

  5. #5

    Default Re: Volvo Penta 3.0 L GSM-C engine replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by ryan2012 View Post
    Wizard651,

    How did you make out with this project?* I am currently in the same situation and are considering ordering a replacement block from Michigan.* Just curious how the project went, what other parts you needed to purchase along the way, how much time it took and if you would share any tips based on your recent experience.

    Any information would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Ryan
    I removed the engine and have the new engine fully assembled and ready to go back in the boat next weekend. When I took the outdrive off I noticed water in the bellows. I will be installing a new gimbal bearing, bellows,and u-joints while everything is apart.

    The question I have is should I replace the gimbal bearing before the motor goes back in? Or put the motor back in then tackle the bearing and bellows?

    Any recommendations would be appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Ryan

  6. #6

    Default Re: Volvo Penta 3.0 L GSM-C engine replacement

    I got the engine may 31. Shipping was prompt and the engine cheap...$2400....all new components....very complete...comes with valves and valve cover installed, distibutor and plugs, (no wires), oil pan installed oil filter installed, thermotat gasket glued in place, and a new manifold gasket.
    Everything else you will have to transfer from old engine to new... no biggie.

    What does not come with the long block which you will need is : fuel pump gasket, exhaust elbow gasket, carb gasket,some sealers, (rubber o rings and for some bolts), new lock nuts for the coupler, and a special tool to align the engine and outdrive.

    This tool is a splined shaft that essentially duplicates the shaft from the out drive to the coupler. I was hoping to get away with not removing the outdrive at all....hoped that if I took very careful mesurements of the top of engine to specific reference points, and got the new engine to fit those mesurements, I could just leave it at that. However, you will need to remove the front engine mounts from the old engine and install on new. Even if you counted threads showing above and below, and duplicated the height mesurements, you could still end up out of alignment mwith the new mill. After mounting the new engine, you shove the alignment tool thru the gimble bearing, and see if it slides into the coupler on the engine without binding. if it binds, you need to adjust the front engine mounts up or down until this splined shaft slides smoothly in and out. then you are aligned. Put the outdrive back on, (there are some seals such that will have to be replaced because of that), and you are done. Evidently skipping this step can cauese catastrophic failure, if the outdrive splined shaft and the coupler attached to the engine flywheel are misaligned.

    However, i am embarrased to say I have only gotten as far as pulling the old engine. The new one has been sitting on the engine stand waiting for transferred parts and installation for a month and a half......My excuse.....I bought a jet ski/wave runner to get me back on the water, until i can get all this done, and since its been between 90 and 100 degrees for the month of june in illinois, I have been riding the jet ski instead of wrenching in the broiling garage.

    I will tell you that it took only about 5 hours from start to finish to pull the engine! After disconnecting fuel line, a couple of electrical connections, the exhaust elbow, and the engine mounting hardware,the throttle linkage, it slid right out forward with the engine hoist. ( I had to remove the rear seats and the supply water pump and serpentine belt to allow the 6 inches of needed clearance to slide the engine out of its connection with outdrive).
    I was shocked as nto how little there was to do to do to get it out. Go for it! And I recommend Michigan Motorz highly. Shipping was cheap, right to my driveway with a lift truck. Put it on my snow mobile trailer. Pulled it to garage with riding mower, and lifted it of trailer into garage with engine hoist.

    Put it on an inexpensive engine stand and you are ready to transfer parts, and finish instal.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Volvo Penta 3.0 L GSM-C engine replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by wizard651 View Post
    I got the engine may 31. Shipping was prompt and the engine cheap...$2400....all new components....very complete...comes with valves and valve cover installed, distibutor and plugs, (no wires), oil pan installed oil filter installed, thermotat gasket glued in place, and a new manifold gasket.
    Everything else you will have to transfer from old engine to new... no biggie.

    What does not come with the long block which you will need is : fuel pump gasket, exhaust elbow gasket, carb gasket,some sealers, (rubber o rings and for some bolts), new lock nuts for the coupler, and a special tool to align the engine and outdrive.

    This tool is a splined shaft that essentially duplicates the shaft from the out drive to the coupler. I was hoping to get away with not removing the outdrive at all....hoped that if I took very careful mesurements of the top of engine to specific reference points, and got the new engine to fit those mesurements, I could just leave it at that. However, you will need to remove the front engine mounts from the old engine and install on new. Even if you counted threads showing above and below, and duplicated the height mesurements, you could still end up out of alignment mwith the new mill. After mounting the new engine, you shove the alignment tool thru the gimble bearing, and see if it slides into the coupler on the engine without binding. if it binds, you need to adjust the front engine mounts up or down until this splined shaft slides smoothly in and out. then you are aligned. Put the outdrive back on, (there are some seals such that will have to be replaced because of that), and you are done. Evidently skipping this step can cauese catastrophic failure, if the outdrive splined shaft and the coupler attached to the engine flywheel are misaligned.

    However, i am embarrased to say I have only gotten as far as pulling the old engine. The new one has been sitting on the engine stand waiting for transferred parts and installation for a month and a half......My excuse.....I bought a jet ski/wave runner to get me back on the water, until i can get all this done, and since its been between 90 and 100 degrees for the month of june in illinois, I have been riding the jet ski instead of wrenching in the broiling garage.

    I will tell you that it took only about 5 hours from start to finish to pull the engine! After disconnecting fuel line, a couple of electrical connections, the exhaust elbow, and the engine mounting hardware,the throttle linkage, it slid right out forward with the engine hoist. ( I had to remove the rear seats and the supply water pump and serpentine belt to allow the 6 inches of needed clearance to slide the engine out of its connection with outdrive).
    I was shocked as nto how little there was to do to do to get it out. Go for it! And I recommend Michigan Motorz highly. Shipping was cheap, right to my driveway with a lift truck. Put it on my snow mobile trailer. Pulled it to garage with riding mower, and lifted it of trailer into garage with engine hoist.

    Put it on an inexpensive engine stand and you are ready to transfer parts, and finish instal.

    Last weekend I put in the new gimbal bearing, installed the new engine and re-assembled the outdrive. One night during the week I made the final connections, filled her with oil and tried to start. Got a rotation or two then just a click. Ordered a new starter which i put in today and she is up and running!!!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Ladysmith, BC, Canada
    Posts
    5,859

    Default Re: Volvo Penta 3.0 L GSM-C engine replacement

    Glad to see another project having a happy ending.

    Are you now ready for sea trials (or lake/river trials)?
    [URL]http://www.grandmaraismichigan.com/Recreation/fisherman.gif[/URL]

  9. #9

    Default Re: Volvo Penta 3.0 L GSM-C engine replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by el_pescador View Post
    Glad to see another project having a happy ending.

    Are you now ready for sea trials (or lake/river trials)?

    Yes sir, I will be on the water next weekend for trials. Unless my work schedule lets me get out sooner.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Volvo Penta 3.0 L GSM-C engine replacement

    I noticed some corrosion on the power steering pulley so i ordered a replacement and will swap that out later. Can i pull that pulley off with a standard 3 jaw puller? Or does this require a special tool?

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