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How to set timing on 1989 90hp Evinrude

Brendan8500

New member
Is itpossible to set the timing on my 1989 90hp “E90TLCEM” while in the driveway? Iknow to hook up water and I have a manual and familiar with timing a car.

Themanual ‘reads” it must be in gear @ WOT to set the timing. It states to takeoff the propeller, etc but I just wanted some input from others who have experienceto shed some light on the process.


Thankyou,
 
(Timing At Cranking Speed 4°)
(J. Reeves)

NOTE: If your engine has the "Fast Start" feature", you must disconnect/eliminate that feature in order to use the following method. The "Fast Start" automatically advances the spark electronically when the engine first starts, dropping it to normal when the engine reaches a certain temperture.

The full spark advance can be adjusted at cranking speed,"without" have the engine running as follows.

To set the timing on that engine, have the s/plugs out, and have the throttle at full, set that timer base under the flywheel tight against the rubber stop on the end of the full spark timer advance stop screw (wire it against that stop if necessary).

Rig up a spark tester on the #1 cylinder plug wire. Hook up the timing light to the #1 plug wire. Crank the engine over and set the spark advance to 4° less than what the engine calls for.
It's a good idea to ground the other plug wires to avoid sparks that could ignite fuel that may shoot out of the plug holes. I've personally never grounded them out and have never encountered a problem (fire) but it could happen.

I don't know the full spark advance setting your engine calls for, but to pick a figure, say your engine calls for 28°, set the timing at 24°. The reasoning for the 4° difference is that when the engine is actually running, due to the nature of the solid state ignition componets, the engine gains the extra 4°.

If you set the engine to its true setting at cranking speed, when running it will advance beyond its limit by 4° which will set up pre-ignition causing guaranteed piston damage! You don't want that to take place.

No need to be concerned about the idle timing as that will take care of itself. The main concern is the full advance setting.

Be sure to use your own engines spark advance settings, not the one I picked out of the air here in my notes.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
 
(Timing At Cranking Speed 4°)
(J. Reeves)

NOTE: If your engine has the "Fast Start" feature", you must disconnect/eliminate that feature in order to use the following method. The "Fast Start" automatically advances the spark electronically when the engine first starts, dropping it to normal when the engine reaches a certain temperture.

The full spark advance can be adjusted at cranking speed,"without" have the engine running as follows.

To set the timing on that engine, have the s/plugs out, and have the throttle at full, set that timer base under the flywheel tight against the rubber stop on the end of the full spark timer advance stop screw (wire it against that stop if necessary).

Rig up a spark tester on the #1 cylinder plug wire. Hook up the timing light to the #1 plug wire. Crank the engine over and set the spark advance to 4° less than what the engine calls for.
It's a good idea to ground the other plug wires to avoid sparks that could ignite fuel that may shoot out of the plug holes. I've personally never grounded them out and have never encountered a problem (fire) but it could happen.

I don't know the full spark advance setting your engine calls for, but to pick a figure, say your engine calls for 28°, set the timing at 24°. The reasoning for the 4° difference is that when the engine is actually running, due to the nature of the solid state ignition componets, the engine gains the extra 4°.

If you set the engine to its true setting at cranking speed, when running it will advance beyond its limit by 4° which will set up pre-ignition causing guaranteed piston damage! You don't want that to take place.

No need to be concerned about the idle timing as that will take care of itself. The main concern is the full advance setting.

Be sure to use your own engines spark advance settings, not the one I picked out of the air here in my notes.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1


Not exactly sure what it means when he states

"set that timer base under the flywheel tight against the rubber stop on the end of the full spark timer advance stop screw (wire it against that stop if necessary)."

Is this in reference to the rod that adjust the timing? If so, not sure what the rubber stop is, and is this after you put the throttle lever in full throttle position (all the way forwards)?

I have a 1987 Evinrude 90HP, removed the VMO and have a regular fuel pump, gas mixed 50:1. Don't think it has the quick start, only wires to the heads are a single brownish / tan to each head.

I added a picture of the linkage side of the motor, hopefully that helps on an answer..
 
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The linkage was all misaligned, so adjustments had to be made..and from what I've read, if you make changes, you have to recheck the timing.. boat ran great when it was on ear muffs, as soon as I put it in the water, it started up, but wouldn't stay running..then if wouldn't start at all..I was still at the dock, so it never was put into gear.. I finally got it started, but only when I turned the primer solenoids red tab so it was pointing away from the motor..

Then I had to put the throttle at about the 9:30 position to keep it running.

If it tried to turn the primer solenoid back to facing the motor, it would die, if I tried bringing the throttle lever back to the 12 o'clock position, it would die.. got it home, and haven't been able to start it since.. check fuel pump, gas flows as it should when I prime the bulb.. checked spark, have spark on all 4 cylinders.. checked the compression, both on the port side are around 86/87 and on the starboard side, they are both around 90/91.. check the primer solenoid, and it clicks as it should, and the rubber piece is perfectly fine. Battery is still around 95%

So I followed the OMC tune up video, and got to the point of doing the timing, but since it won't start, I can't put it in the water, so I wanted to give this way a try..

This is the video I was trying to follow.. https://youtu.be/RhsCVTA7U5M
 
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I do not believe that motor had " quick start"-----If your compression test gauge is accurate this motor needs a rebuild.----Remove bypass cover to inspect inspect pistons / rings on the port side.----The 50:1 mix fuel pump ( correct one ) should be mounted directly on the intake manifold.-----That motor sounds just AWFUL and I believe it needs major work.
 
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I do not believe that motor had " quick start"-----If your compression test gauge is accurate this motor needs a rebuild.----Remove bypass cover to inspect inspect pistons / rings on the port side.----The 50:1 mix fuel pump ( correct one ) should be mounted directly on the intake manifold.-----That motor sounds just AWFUL and I believe it needs major work.

yea, it does sound bad... sounded way better when it was in the driveway on ear muffs, you could rev it up, no missing, no sputtering at all. and it would stay idling just fine. this is why I wanted to double check the timing and so forth. I did the compression test in the morning, with the engine cold, since I couldnt start it.. and I imagine with it being cold, rings and so forth are different dimension (smaller), and no lubricant to speak of.

My main concern is why it wont even fire up now after putting it in the water at the boat ramp dock. I put it under no load at all. I did notice the lower unit was leaking gray fluid, with some water after I got home and it was sitting for an hour. so I plan on rebuilding the whole lower unit this weekend, as I already purchased all that I need for that job, and carb rebuild kits as well.

--> this is the leaking fluid from the prop area: https://photos.app.goo.gl/t4ia73643Ui7dtQ69

does anything throw up a flag when you see that, other then the bushings being fubar?
 
Well----I can rebuild that motor and lower unit without a glance at a manual.------You need to evaluate condition of pistons and rings before you spend time and money on this motor.-----What " bushings " are you talking about.----There are needle and roller bearings on this motor.----Very few " bushings " if any at all !!!
 
Well----I can rebuild that motor and lower unit without a glance at a manual.------You need to evaluate condition of pistons and rings before you spend time and money on this motor.-----What " bushings " are you talking about.----There are needle and roller bearings on this motor.----Very few " bushings " if any at all !!!

I meant to say the lower unit seals that go around the prop shaft.. I have another motor, a 1989 that has a bad piston as well. so I was planning on rebuilding that over the winter, and using the 1987 as a reference when reassembling.. along with an manual I have. one guy quoted me as 3800.00 to rebuild it..i was like, yikes! if this ends up being bad, sheesh, I'll then have 2 that need rebuilt, fml. I must've had "sucker" written on my forehead when I bought the boat, and then had to buy a different engine(1987) due to the guy being a liar, and me falling for it, not once, but maybe twice. at least with the 1987 one the guy started it right up on muffs, let it run for a bit, shut it off, restarted it. put it in gear. so it all looked legit. but now... ugh
 
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You can not judge the condition of a motor running on a hose !!!!----Putting it in gear means nothing !---It is still neutral as the prop does not need to do any work moving air !-----Most will " bark and roar " and sound wonderful to the untrained ear.------I buy these motors on a regular basis for parts / rebuilding.----Broken piston rings will put everyone of these engines in the rebuild line up.----Some sooner that others.----Have over a dozen of them or likely more !!!
 
You can not judge the condition of a motor running on a hose !!!!----Putting it in gear means nothing !---It is still neutral as the prop does not need to do any work moving air !-----Most will " bark and roar " and sound wonderful to the untrained ear.------I buy these motors on a regular basis for parts / rebuilding.----Broken piston rings will put everyone of these engines in the rebuild line up.----Some sooner that others.----Have over a dozen of them or likely more !!!

Yea, I'm going to be more on the cautious side from now on. But anyways, is the rod he is referring to, the rod right below the timing wheel?
 
You should do some inspection / diagnosis on your motor.-------I do not believe there is a 10 minute , $10 , magic cure.
 
I understand doing that first, that's why I am going through this process, and why I want to verify if what he is referring to when he says "set that timer base under the flywheel tight against the rubber stop on the end of the full spark timer advance stop screw (wire it against that stop if necessary)." is in fact the rod below the flywheel that the red arrow points to ,and what is the rubber stop screw? --> https://photos.app.goo.gl/29mULp4RRmqc1Sxn6

I am just going step-by-step, and this happens to be the next step so I can proceed to the next step, since I cant put it in the water, I need to do this timing method
 
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As your timer base rotates, it eventually hits a stop as the throttle lever continues to move forward. That is what he is referring to. Push the throttle lever forward slowly while you watch what your red arrow is pointing to move. You'll see the stop that the base hits.
 
As your timer base rotates, it eventually hits a stop as the throttle lever continues to move forward. That is what he is referring to. Push the throttle lever forward slowly while you watch what your red arrow is pointing to move. You'll see the stop that the base hits.

ahh, thank you, thats what I was confused about.. the video I am following is --> OMC 1986 and Newer Cross Flow V4 Linkage Adjustments
https://youtu.be/RhsCVTA7U5M?t=30
 
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Well, I went and tried to set the timing as explained..and for the first few times it was showing as +10 degrees, at this time I had the plugs still in, the plug wires all grounded except the #1 cylinder, I used that one to hook the timing light to since I don't have plug like wires coming from the coil packs..I had the throttle full, but not in gear..on this boat, you have to pull the handle out towards the port side, to give it throttle, without putting it in gear..if you push it back in, and forwards it will go full throttle, and be in gear, but you can't turn over the motor..I guess it's some safety device. So I took 3 of the plugs out #2,3 and 4. And tried again, after trying for a few times, it wouldn't go any higher then +15 degrees.via the metal point tab. not sure how I am going to get it to 24..book calls for 28 degrees at work I think. I set the dial on the timing light to 24 as well..any advice? Not really a fan of these timing lights you have to set the degrees with a dial..what ever happened to the good ol days of just a timing light. Then again, I'm using a con-tec from harbor freight.
 
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